but I'm also going to be changing my oil to a better oil.
I think there is allot to be said for that. The ZDDP levels in the majority of oils have been cut by HALF to around 700PPM. Add to that running a light weight oil like 5W-30 in a engine that runs at hot as the 4.0 does is asking for problems IMHO.
The police dept I used to work for had several XJ's in its fleet for neighborhood radar patrol. The vast majority of their operating time they were sitting idling in the hot Houston weather. After problems with sludge,horrible UOAs and low oil pressure our fleet mechanic switched to running 15W-40 diesel(SM rates) oil instead of the 10W-30 spec. With the 15W-40 the UOA(used oil analysis) reports showed allot less metals in the oil indicating less overall wear on the engine. The higher detergents in the oil solved the sludge problems and the high weight oil was more tolerant of the heat and improved the oil pressure.
In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
Not at all. It spun free even when adding slight pressures at different angles, therefore I believe my bushing and shaft are fine, but that's just me. I was too PO'd to completely disassemble it.
I also realized when reinstalling that the marks I scribed on the block for reference were faded a bit due to slight oil seepage during removal making exact positioning difficult at best. I believe I am within 1/32 to 1/16 of it's original position and it's running fine. I used a snug fitting drift through both holes as directed but since the housing hole is a bit larger, there is a certain amount of play at TDC. This makes quality scribes/marks mandatory for us home gamers and brings up a question: does anyone know the approximate tolerance for the cam sensor adjustment (realizing it truly needs to be scoped for accurate adjustment)? Thanks in advance.
I had mine out today and disassembled it. Sorry, no pictures, I get wrapped up in what I'm doing.
At 33K miles the gear has even wear on all teeth. The shaft has light scoring in the area of the lower bushing and none in the upper. The tip is slightly peened from engaging the oil pump.
The cam shows no wear.
I cleaned up the shaft with 600 grit paper. I also wire wheeled the gear to touch it up. Before reassembly I heated the housing and bushings then applied some synthetic gear lube to the bushings to 're-charge' them. Before installing it I coated the gear in moly grease as the moly can get burnished into the metal.
I bought the Jeep with 27K miles on it and since have run Amsoil 5-30. I wish I knew of this problem when I bought it so I could judge the effect of running the Amsoil.
For those contemplating tightening the vertical play in the shaft; it will have no effect on how the gears mesh. It will only shift the contact patch slightly.
I was thinking about moly on the gear but was concerned that tiny shavings would get trapped in the grease creating a valve grinding compound of sorts. I would be more apt to do it if it weren't for my cam gear showing signs of the same wear. Still considering going back after it and tearing the whole thing apart since replacement parts are no where to be found and stopping the abnormal friction is an absolute must.
To be honest it's driving me crazy like everyone else after looking all over the state for a few years searching for a "near last build" TJ. When I found a build date and engine combo of 12/05 I thought I hit the motherload. Instead I now feel I stepped in a load of s***.
Sweeney - I have to say I'm completely surprised by your part analysis, especially given the mileage, and know you must be relieved that your rig is not currently effected.
How is it that the same components are not failing 100% the same way given identical designs? It makes me think it's a machining process on some particular part that completely lacks quality control rather than hardness of the metals making contact or lubrication of bushings. I'm normally a completely rational person but this failure has me perplexed for some odd reason. A very frustrating circumstance to say the least.
HOW MANY OF US HAVE THIS PROBLEM???[/SIZE]
I am pretty ticked off -- after three months of Jeep ownership, I end up with this:
I heave read every post and chimed in in the neighborhood of page 28. After calling Chrysler's customer service (I believe their number is 1-800-URSCREWED), I attempted to start a registry thread ( OPDA/Camshaft Synchronizer shaft problem (TSB E05R) consolidated REGISTRY please sign ) to assist others in battling Chrysler. Chrysler's customer no-service representative said that he had never heard of such a problem and further insinuated that what I had read on the internet was no more than Area 51/Black Helicopter drivel.
While I realize that only a minority of Jeep owners are forum members, if there is a large number of verifiable cases consolidated in one thread, it might prompt Chrysler to be a little more responsive in an effort to avoid a class-action suit
Savage, the grease will be wiped away in short order but hopefully the MoS2 will get burnished into the metal in the process. The gear on mine is no where near pristine but not terrible yet.
It would be interesting to know what oil has been used on the failed units as well as their geographic locations. Mine has been a New England Jeep and has enjoyed cool/cold periods for half its life. Maybe a factor, maybe not.
I just can't believe this thread and this issue. I bought a low mile (23,000) 2005 RME, thinking I was getting the best of the last of the TJ's. I am the third owner, so no extended powertrain warranty for me.
I took apart my OPDA today. The wear is not serious, but I would say it is more worn than what I believe it should be for what is now 27,000 miles. I have pics, but I know I don't have enough posts, so I'm not going to bother. I also performed my first oil change on the Heep as well, and I am concerned about the metal shavings left in the drain pan. Would have been great if I was panning for gold! So much for running over 200,000 miles without a rebuild that this engine is supposedly legendary for!
I had already bought Mobil1 10w-30 for it and Wally world didn't have Mobil1 5w-40 Diesel Truck, so I found some Red Line Zinc additive at a local auto parts store. Next time I think I am going to go with Valvoline Premium Blue as it seems to be stocked full of old school additives.
I will call CRYsler tomorrow and see what they have to say, but something tells me this first Jeep is going to be my last...
I am so pissed!!! What an f'ing joke!!!
Last edited by speed_phreak; 08-08-2010 at 07:37 PM..
okay, so i've been lurking this site for a few weeks, but this thread got my wheels turning. i used the repacement crown automotive gear the other day and it took more than a little persuasion to get it on the shaft(such that i dont think i could get it apart again).
so that got me to look closer at the 2002-2004 cps assembly and sensor. i've only got pictures of it to reference, but it lookes to me like it would be close to a direct plug/bolt-in. at least physically, not sure how differently the sensors operate. i don't know if anyone has one onhand to confirm or refute this thought.
it also seemed to me that the reluctor wheel was just tacked onto the top of the shaft. i don't know if anyone with confidence in their welding would think about using a shaft off an older distributor assembly and figure a way to retrofit the sensor into a distributor housing. the torx bolts looked to me to be in the same places as the distributor cap bolts.
great information here guys, thanks all for sharing and brainstorming.
Don't mean to be a pain, but could you show a pic of your zerk setup?
Sorry....was busy putting it back in and making sure that it worked and I forgot to take a pic of it. If you look under the bottom of the cup, you'll see a hole with a brass cap inside of it. Remove the gear, wheel and shaft. Drill out the brass cap, clean it up, drill a 1/16" hole into the metal sleeve you'll see at the end of the cleaned out hole so that it will allow grease to go into the shaft sleeve itself. Make sure the inside of the shaft is cleaned with no burrs, tap the outside hole, and install a 45 degree zerk. You'll need a zerk that separates into two pieces..one that is straight out for the hole, and then a smaller nipple that attaches at a 45 degree angle.
Ok....my solution seems to be working. Greasing the shaft, installing a zerk, loading it up with high temp moly "red" grease and working it into the shaft rotation several times seems to be holding, but I won't be able to report the long-term effects to you guys.
I did come up with a more permanent fix yesterday that works much better for me with the family and the need to have a solid daily driver, a long-trip vehicle that is more comfortable, and that will also allow me to go up into the Sierras without too much additional worry of getting stranded. Here it is:
It's an 04, fully loaded, 4x4, and fits my family, my gear, and gets the SAME gas mileage as my TJ (as long as I stay off the pedal a bit... It also hits 75 on the highway with NO problems. Best of all.....I pretty much traded EVEN for the Jeep AND got to keep ALL of my accessories to sell (kargo master frame and rack, Hi-Lift jack, Rain Gear cover, Raingler full netting set, Cloverpatch window storage roll, bikini top and bar, and tonneau cover)! (I'll put them all in another thread for sale)
This is my fifth and last Jeep unless I do a full build again someday just for an extra vehicle. As much as I love my Jeeps, once I drove the truck for an extended test drive, I traded my TJ in without looking back and love the new ride.
I'm going to let my son use my membership here for his XJ and I'll pop in to help him out some, but Chrysler has disappointed me enough on this that I looked elsewhere and ended up liking what I found.
Just to see what kind of response i get - or none at all - i used jeep's customer website to send them an inquiry about this problem. I even sent the link to the thread. I simply asked that someone at jeep please read through the thread and help us owners out with some info. Pretty sure i'll get a 'this problem doesn't exist for your VIN number'. But hey, maybe there is one CSR that might forward it on to someone who cares.
If you don't have anything to do, i encourage each of you to do the same thing. If enough owners yell, maybe someone's voice will be heard.
I pulled the cover off mine this weekend. The gear moved about the thickness of a quarter. Probably doesn't say anything about what's really going on down there. Don't know if i really want to know. Heck it got so bad for me this weekend that i looked to see if i could like a JK. As the song goes.....the thrill is gone....