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Unread 03-12-2010, 06:47 PM   #31
Divinitous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by percle View Post
Just heard from the dealer: According to their records (from another Jeep dealership now out of business), it was replaced in 05. His shop foreman is out today so won't hear anything until Monday. Could they be dumb enough to replace it with the same defective part
You'd be surprised at all the shady stuff I've seen from dealer mechanics. Recall items just getting thrown away and leaving the truck on the lift for an hour or two while doing another job. Shady stuff.

I'd only bring a vehicle in for a recall if it's absolutely vital and no longer functioning.

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Unread 03-12-2010, 07:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbjb25 View Post
Just called, my VIN does not fall within this TSB

Yeah neither did mine, but you shouldn't go by that. My point of this thread was to bring it to people's attention that this applies to vehicles not covered under the TSB.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 07:08 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aRedRocker View Post
I haven't pulled a distributor since I had a 258, do these new ones rotate from side to side and move the timing? Is there a cap you can pull and mark the rotor like the old days? Pardon my ignorance, just want to see ahead of time what I'm getting in to.
It's just like a distrubutor. You mark the rotor and the housing, then mark the outside of the housing and the engine block. Once you mark it, remove the 13mm bolt and unplug the cam sensor. Once its out you can check out the gear and the gear on the camshaft.

If I have time this weekend I might do a small write up if that would help.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 07:14 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick B View Post
Who did you call, the dealer or DC ?
I called Chrysler

Contact Us by Telephone:
1-800-853-1403
M-F 8:00A.M. - 5:00P.M.
(U.S. Continental Time Zones

They're going to tell you that your vehicle isn't covered under the TSB. If you push the issue they will then tell you to take it to a dealer to have it diagnosed, on your dime (my dealer didn't charge me). They will then have someone contact you to let you know how much of the repair cost they will cover (I only had to pay $100).
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Last edited by ElJaynocibuR; 03-14-2010 at 11:15 AM..
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Unread 03-12-2010, 07:26 PM   #35
06choppertj
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Thanks for the heads up My build date was 3/06. I hope chrysler is honest about isssuing a recall if necessary.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 09:50 PM   #36
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the build date on the door label is going to be later than the build date of the engine, although probably not by much

for example my vehicle build date is 6/2005 but the engine was built 2005 May 26

the engine built date can be seen on the right side of the engine block on the machined surface between #3 and #4 cylinder. the first digit is the year followed by two digits for the month followed by MX which means 4.0 L engine followed by the last two digits meaning the day, eg for mine 505MX26

I wonder what caused the cam position gear to fail. wrong material or incorrect heat treatment? or is the cam shaft gear faulty. cant imagine that both of them have been made wrong.

this gear drives the oil pump too doesnt it?

wouldnt mind seeing a photo of the camshaft gear
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Unread 03-12-2010, 10:16 PM   #37
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They send the old parts back in to the manufacturer (supposedly), so I dont have any pics of the old cam.
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Unread 03-12-2010, 10:22 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElJaynocibuR View Post
It's just like a distrubutor. You mark the rotor and the housing, then mark the outside of the housing and the engine block. Once you mark it, remove the 13mm bolt and unplug the cam sensor. Once its out you can check out the gear and the gear on the camshaft.

If I have time this weekend I might do a small write up if that would help.
Yes it would. My build date is 6/05 so I'd like to check it out for myself before driving 160 miles to my nearest dealer.
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Unread 03-14-2010, 12:36 AM   #39
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Good to know thanks for the info.
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Unread 03-14-2010, 03:25 PM   #40
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Well here are a few pics. I hope they help.
Here is the camshaft synchronizer (distributor looking thing): Unplug the camshaft postion sensor that is mounted on it. Remove the black plastic cover (T25 torx).


Next mark the rotor and the inside of the housing, and the outside edge of the housing and the engine block. Remember to MARK THEM CAREFULLY and DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER AFTER IT'S BEEN REMOVED. (My markings aren't that great, try and be more precise than I was.)


Once you've made the marks, you're ready to remove the 13mm hold down bolt.


You can now lift the assembly out and check the oil pump drive gear at the bottom. Check for irregular wear on it. If it is wearing funny you can be sure the gear on your camshaft is wearing prematurely too. Take a flashlight and look down in the hole and you should be able to see it.



To reinstall just reverse the process. It may take a couple of stabs of the assembly to get the marks all lined back up, but it's not that hard. Look down in the hole to see the orientation of the oil pump drive you may have to turn it a little to make them line up. Once I had it set in I found it easier to reinstall the hold down bolt loosely to make the final adjustments, then I snugged it down, plugged the CPS back in, and put the cap back on. Hope this helps, if you have any questions feel free to pm me.
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Last edited by ElJaynocibuR; 03-14-2010 at 03:36 PM..
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Unread 03-14-2010, 04:07 PM   #41
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I had mine replaced last year under warranty. Now I have a squeal from the engine that I have a feeling is the oil pump drive. I plan to take mine out to check from wear and possible bushing deterioration.

I was wondering if there are any gaskets involved with the removed/install to pickup before taking it out?
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Unread 03-14-2010, 04:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarFire70 View Post
I had mine replaced last year under warranty. Now I have a squeal from the engine that I have a feeling is the oil pump drive. I plan to take mine out to check from wear and possible bushing deterioration.

I was wondering if there are any gaskets involved with the removed/install to pickup before taking it out?

The only gasket involved looks like a distrubutor gasket. I read a thread where someone had one that was squealing and he took it apart, cleaned it, put it back together and the noise went away.
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Unread 03-14-2010, 04:38 PM   #43
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Mine was built in 12/04. The engine code is 412MX03. I am assuming that it was built in 12/04 also. I have been having problems with my oil gauge in the dash. Sometimes it will not show anything (0). I will shut it off and restart it and everything is good. I just chalked it up to a faulty sending unit. I wonder if this is my problem? I guess I need to pull the dist. and check it.
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Unread 03-14-2010, 04:49 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Unlimitedlou View Post
Mine was built in 12/04. The engine code is 412MX03. I am assuming that it was built in 12/04 also. I have been having problems with my oil gauge in the dash. Sometimes it will not show anything (0). I will shut it off and restart it and everything is good. I just chalked it up to a faulty sending unit. I wonder if this is my problem? I guess I need to pull the dist. and check it.
I don't see how this would have any affect on your guage, unless your gear completely stripped and stopped driving your oil pump. If that was the case, the guage is the least of your worries.

This problem usually causes intermittent crank sensor check engine lights, very violent bucking, and it will put the jeep in limp mode (limiting the engine to about 2500 rpms)
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Unread 03-14-2010, 04:53 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElJaynocibuR View Post
and it will put the jeep in limp mode (limiting the engine to about 2500 rpms)
I've never heard of a "limp mode" for the 4.0L engine...
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2006 , 4.0 , camshaft , replacement , tj , warranty , wrangler

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