Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 23 - JeepForum.com

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post #331 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 07:43 PM
Volusiaguy
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Got it....thanks for the pics!

As for grease, what about a lithium cv joint grease? We've used it to lube the shaft-drive on the motorcycle, and no one in the group has had any problems...it's a high pressure grease that seems to work well.

I'm pulling this out in the morning, and using my vacation to fix this one way or the other!

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post #332 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 08:19 PM
Sweeney
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I would use a moly grease in this application as the MoS2 will burnish into the metal and provide lubrication even when the carrier is gone. It is also stable at over 350 C.
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post #333 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
I would use a moly grease in this application as the MoS2 will burnish into the metal and provide lubrication even when the carrier is gone. It is also stable at over 350 C.
I got a email from a friend who works on heavy diesel stuff and says for high moly grease you can't beat Cat desert gold grease

http://www.cat.com/cda/files/1386255/7/NEHP6012-02.pdf


FOG

In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
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post #334 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 09:04 PM
Volusiaguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piperpilot3tk View Post
Volusiaguy, take your CPS assembly apart and fix it. Using some 600 grit silicon carbide sand paper smooth out/remove the scoring on the shaft, the hardened bushings in the housing will most likely show no wear (mine did not have any wear, the shaft is MUCH softer than the bushings). Clean the bushings out with some break cleaner and reinstall the shaft with lots of synthetic grease in the upper bushing. Do not pack the lower bushing with grease, this will prevent oil from getting to the bottom bushing. Reassemble and reinstal. This should keep you going for a while.
Piper and Fog,
I've pulled it, and it does have the markings. Not extremely bad compared to some pics on here, but it does not turn easily by hand, and i can feel it binding a bit. I've drilled out the grease hole, and will eventually tap it and add a zerk.

How do I pull the assembly apart? Have you guys done this? I'm getting the feeling that we're going to have to rebuild these parts on our own if we want to have a running vehicle. I'm up for it, but need some direction.

Thanks for the direction on this. I'm still looking for a replacement, but I'm working on the old part while I'm sitting here waiting.
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post #335 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 09:08 PM
Sweeney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
I got a email from a friend who works on heavy diesel stuff and says for high moly grease you can't beat Cat desert gold grease

http://www.cat.com/cda/files/1386255/7/NEHP6012-02.pdf


FOG
Might have to hunt some down.

I have some Military 'Extreme Pressure' Electro-Moly Grease... it's the consistency of mortar... )
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post #336 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 09:09 PM
Sweeney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volusiaguy View Post
Piper and Fog,
I've pulled it, and it does have the markings. Not extremely bad compared to some pics on here, but it does not turn easily by hand, and i can feel it binding a bit. I've drilled out the grease hole, and will eventually tap it and add a zerk.

How do I pull the assembly apart? Have you guys done this? I'm getting the feeling that we're going to have to rebuild these parts on our own if we want to have a running vehicle. I'm up for it, but need some direction.

Thanks for the direction on this. I'm still looking for a replacement, but I'm working on the old part while I'm sitting here waiting.
I believe if you pull the gear off, the shaft will then pull out.
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post #337 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 09:15 PM
Volusiaguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
I believe if you pull the gear off, the shaft will then pull out.
In looking at it, I believe you would need to tap out the small, brass rod in the gear? Is that the only thing holding the gear on? Does it just get pushed out and do I need to replace it with a new one?
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post #338 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 09:16 PM
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To get the assembly apart you put the assembly on its side and gently tap out the roll pin in the gear.

Once you pull the gear off the shaft and reluctance wheel will slide out the top. Be sure to keep track of the little black plastic spacer on the shaft under the reluctance wheel.


FOG

In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
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post #339 of 1818 Old 08-03-2010, 11:36 PM
Volusiaguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
To get the assembly apart you put the assembly on its side and gently tap out the roll pin in the gear.

Once you pull the gear off the shaft and reluctance wheel will slide out the top. Be sure to keep track of the little black plastic spacer on the shaft under the reluctance wheel.


FOG
Thanks, Fog.
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post #340 of 1818 Old 08-04-2010, 08:32 AM
chutta
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Originally Posted by 2006_Sport View Post
How did you get them to replace it? I only have 51k on mine and they told me to screw off.
I mentioned that in fact I did see the striations and they are covering it.
My original dealer got the kibosh during DC's downsizing. It was a blessing to me, as they were not Jeep people, this dealer is closer and they're cool so far. I did not get a close look at the cam gear so I am trusting them on it.
Nevertheless I think I'll do a better job and mark the block and housing at the point where it "tops out" after spinning up off the cam gear and hopefully not mess up the timing on an inspection maybe 5k out.

In hindsight, these guys would have pointed me to a 44 or even the Ruby and despite the up front cost I would have been better off.

05x 4.0 6sp 30/35, aussie front, 3.73's, r/c 4"x lift, adv adptr sye, shifter bracket, tw cv ds, 33 t/c skid, 33x12.5 dunlop mud rovers on steelies, psc sport cage/rockers, warn fr bump/steer and 30 diff skid, sirius,cb, hand throttle 1"bl/mml 265/16's pepboys at's on orig moabs for street. Lowrance H20c for gps
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post #341 of 1818 Old 08-04-2010, 10:44 AM
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I emailed lemon law for ****s and giggles about it to see if there was any possibilities. They said "I have heard of this issue before but if you are out of warranty unfortunately Chrysler has no obligation to fix it". So looks like I'll be getting a 4.7L stroker when my engine blows up.
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post #342 of 1818 Old 08-04-2010, 11:29 AM
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Ok...talked to a Jeep service manager a friend of mine knows in Canada. They are out of the parts also, but Chrysler did send out a Repair package back in 05 which consists of a new bottom gear and a few odds and ends. I have one reserved locally and am driving up to check it out. If it's the gear piece, then it's 29.95 and he'll sell the whole kit to me. Not sure if my shaft is salvageable since I had the monkey chatter, but I'm going to pull it all apart today, install the zirk, smooth out the shaft (thanks, piper), and replace the gear and then see if it works.

I have not seen the earlier versions of this, but I'm wondering if a machine shop could take the earlier shaft and install the newer wheel on it to make a workable part. For Fog and those of you that have the earlier part in-hand, is that a possibility?

If the replacement package part is what we need, I'll post the number later today as there seems to be a few of these left in dealerships around the US that we might be able to get for future use.
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post #343 of 1818 Old 08-04-2010, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006_Sport View Post
I emailed lemon law for ****s and giggles about it to see if there was any possibilities. They said "I have heard of this issue before but if you are out of warranty unfortunately Chrysler has no obligation to fix it". So looks like I'll be getting a 4.7L stroker when my engine blows up.
so now your going to have a relatively expensive engine but still have a failure prone part. until a workable solution is in hand your better off replacing with a junkyard engine, rebuilding yours, or go to a V8 swap
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post #344 of 1818 Old 08-04-2010, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
so now your going to have a relatively expensive engine but still have a failure prone part. until a workable solution is in hand your better off replacing with a junkyard engine, rebuilding yours, or go to a V8 swap

Not going V8...already told myself that.
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post #345 of 1818 Old 08-04-2010, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by roadkill View Post
so now your going to have a relatively expensive engine but still have a failure prone part. until a workable solution is in hand your better off replacing with a junkyard engine, rebuilding yours, or go to a V8 swap
For me IF (the big IF) I cannot find a workable long term solution to the CPS assembly I'm going to try and tig weld the top of the new stye CPS assembly to a pre-99 distributor cap bottom half drive assembly.

IF that isn't feasable I'm going to go with a old school distributor cap and rotor and a holly throttle body injection.

FOG

In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
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