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Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this)

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#1 ·
I'm sure most people are aware of the E05 recall for some of the 2005 model 4.0l's having premature oil pump drive gear wear. This recall involved engines that were built between 10/20/2004 and 02/01/2005. Apparently my 2006 is experiencing the same symptoms (My build date is 10/2005).

I noticed this when I was searching for the cause of some drivability issues:



Chrysler has decided to do the right thing and cover the repairs (new cam, cam shaft synchronizer, etc...). All I have to cover is $100. I was very happy to get the news yesterday!:2thumbsup:

I'm sure I'm not the only 2006 owner that has this problem. If you have a 2006 I would make sure you don't have this problem too.
 
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#3 ·
You will have to pull the camshaft synchronizer (distributor looking thing on the passenger side of the block) and check the gear at the bottom of the shaft and the cam gear. Make sure you take the black plastic cap off and mark the rotor, the housing, and the engine block. U have to put it in the exact orientation as it came out. (Do not turn the engine over while its out)
 
#8 ·
Mine's an 05, with an 11/04 build, so interested too.
 
#9 ·
I have been getting random misses and crank position snesor codes. I have tried 2 new sensors and still getting the code. I think the slack in the gears is causing the crank/cam sensors to be out of sync. That's just a guess as of now, but that is what led me searching for things and I found this. I then called chrysler and was told to get it diagnosed at a dealer, so id id. They then decided to cover it under the recall. I have 64k miles. Sorry for the crappy grammar, I'm posting from my phone and its not easy to do.
 
#13 ·
knuckelhead, all of the info on this was posted on the CO 4x4 site probably 2-3 years ago. It included all the dates and numbers. I'm not sure there was ever an official recall though. I think if you had a problem and took it in they fixed it. You may want to do a search there for the info.
 
#15 ·
IIIRC I was in on that discussion. I met a guy at Moab in 2006 who had that exact same problem (with 13,000 miles on it), but his gear was stripped completely.
I told him to have the dealer fix it. The last I saw of him, his 06 Rubicon was heading off in the sunset on a trailer...
 
#17 ·
Just towed mine to Jeep Dealer with same problem

Dec 05 Build date - LJ Rubicon: I was having same symptoms (P0340, P0344, ...) with engine noise, loss of power, etc. It would barely turn over when trying to start, finally start but would die suddenly.

Took the cam synchronizer shaft out and it looked like the one in the picture (with damage inside the engine as well). I guess I start my fight with Chrysler tomorrow to see if they will pay for the damage. Mileage is only 16K so let's see what excuses they come up with!!
 
#18 ·
Dec 05 Build date - LJ Rubicon: I was having same symptoms (P0340, P0344, ...) with engine noise, loss of power, etc. It would barely turn over when trying to start, finally start but would die suddenly.

Took the cam synchronizer shaft out and it looked like the one in the picture (with damage inside the engine as well). I guess I start my fight with Chrysler tomorrow to see if they will pay for the damage. Mileage is only 16K so let's see what excuses they come up with!!
Chrysler will want you to get it diagnosed by a local dealership first. It shouldn't be that much of a fight. It was actually pretty easy for me.

This problem is very common for 2005-2006's. I wish everyone would take the time to check their gears before it causes serious engine damage.
 
#26 ·
Just pulled mine out and looked at it and it has wear marks on it but that should be normal I think. It does not look as bad as the picture though. I did just call dealer and he looked up my vin # and said mine is not one of them under the tsb. The service guy said he will talk to District guy and let me know Monday if they want me to bring it in and inspect it. He said a TJ came in today for this. My build date is 11/05 with 10k miles. My Jeep is running just fine but I checked it because of this thread.
 
#36 ·
the build date on the door label is going to be later than the build date of the engine, although probably not by much

for example my vehicle build date is 6/2005 but the engine was built 2005 May 26

the engine built date can be seen on the right side of the engine block on the machined surface between #3 and #4 cylinder. the first digit is the year followed by two digits for the month followed by MX which means 4.0 L engine followed by the last two digits meaning the day, eg for mine 505MX26

I wonder what caused the cam position gear to fail. wrong material or incorrect heat treatment? or is the cam shaft gear faulty. cant imagine that both of them have been made wrong.

this gear drives the oil pump too doesnt it?

wouldnt mind seeing a photo of the camshaft gear
 
#40 · (Edited)
Well here are a few pics. I hope they help.
Here is the camshaft synchronizer (distributor looking thing): Unplug the camshaft postion sensor that is mounted on it. Remove the black plastic cover (T25 torx).


Next mark the rotor and the inside of the housing, and the outside edge of the housing and the engine block. Remember to MARK THEM CAREFULLY and DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER AFTER IT'S BEEN REMOVED. (My markings aren't that great, try and be more precise than I was.)


Once you've made the marks, you're ready to remove the 13mm hold down bolt.
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You can now lift the assembly out and check the oil pump drive gear at the bottom. Check for irregular wear on it. If it is wearing funny you can be sure the gear on your camshaft is wearing prematurely too. Take a flashlight and look down in the hole and you should be able to see it.


To reinstall just reverse the process. It may take a couple of stabs of the assembly to get the marks all lined back up, but it's not that hard. Look down in the hole to see the orientation of the oil pump drive you may have to turn it a little to make them line up. Once I had it set in I found it easier to reinstall the hold down bolt loosely to make the final adjustments, then I snugged it down, plugged the CPS back in, and put the cap back on. Hope this helps, if you have any questions feel free to pm me.
 
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