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Unread 01-23-2011, 06:31 PM   #1576
lope
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
If you have any up/down play between the gear and the thrust bearing, when the camshaft engages it will push the gear up and generate a gap between the plastic washer and the upper bushing. The oil isn't under pressure, but the drive gear will push the oil up. Start it with the old shaft and see what happens. I'm really curious if it will push out.

When I installed the sensor wheel on the distributor shaft, I drove it down far enough for a snug fit. There was no play in it like the original OPDA had.

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Unread 01-23-2011, 06:40 PM   #1577
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Originally Posted by lope View Post
When I installed the sensor wheel on the distributor shaft, I drove it down far enough for a snug fit. There was no play in it like the original OPDA had.
Then what are you waiting for? See what happens!

I would also think minimizing the gap should help with gear wear. It will likely increase wear to the plastic washer.
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Unread 01-23-2011, 07:19 PM   #1578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
It will likely increase wear to the plastic washer.

Yeah, I wondered about that too. Thanks for the info on the '04 OPDA, that's a good price, I looked at some used ones on ebay and they were that much or more.

Here's irony for ya: design and manufacture a good, lasting product and sell it for $50 (the '04 & earlier OPDA). Or, design and manufacture a defective product (the '05-'06 OPDA), charge $100 plus for it, and since it wears out so fast you sell more than you can keep in stock!
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Unread 01-24-2011, 07:24 AM   #1579
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My pics

Well, I decided it was time to check mine and see how bad it was. I bought the jeep last Spring, have since put about 1,500 miles on it, for ~49,000 total miles now. The PO owner used always used Amsoil and Mobil1. I have not experienced any problems or symptoms that something is wrong. But given the fact that everyone who has checked seems to find this problem I thought I should look before it was too late to do a relatively minor fix.

In anticipation, last December I ordered a new OPDA, knowing that I would almost certainly have to deal with this problem.

First, thanks to fog and willydigger and others who have contributed to this and related threads. They made it easy to do examination.

Careful marking of the OPDA wheel, housing and engine block made it easy to get everything out and put it back together with no problems. One thing to note - marking the housing and engine block is the most crucial part to get the OPDA re-aligned when you put the OPDA back in. Marking the sensor is important, but it doesn't have to be super accurate because there is slop in the wheel anyway. As long as you get the right gear teeth engaged when re-inserting, it'll be OK. The real timing alignment is then determined by proper orientation of the housing with respect to the block when you clamp it down.

The video willydigger put together here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/20...02/index8.html

was extremely helpful.

Now, the results:

My OPDA gear looks a lot like many others I've seen in this thread. I'll definitely be installing the new, modified version as soon as possible. And switching to the Mobil1 5W40 turbo diesel oil.

The oil pump drive end is also somewhat worn.

What worries me the most is the cam shaft. This is the best pic I could get. I didn't notice when I was looking at it in person (but then, I couldn't really see it that well), but I wonder if that gear tooth is chipped at the end? Can someone (please) tell me that this looks normal?

One last observation. The drive assembly rotated smoothly and easily by hand - on par with the brand new unit. However the top of the OPDA (inside the housing on the metal surface just below the wheel), where the sensor wheel is located, was covered with a bunch of small pieces of black crud. Maybe bits of burned and dried up grease that had worked their way out the top of the bushing?
opda-gear.jpg   opda-end.jpg   cam.jpg  
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Unread 01-24-2011, 09:06 AM   #1580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgginslc View Post
...

Careful marking of the OPDA wheel, housing and engine block made it easy to get everything out and put it back together with no problems. One thing to note - marking the housing and engine block is the most crucial part to get the OPDA re-aligned when you put the OPDA back in. Marking the sensor is important, but it doesn't have to be super accurate because there is slop in the wheel anyway. As long as you get the right gear teeth engaged when re-inserting, it'll be OK. The real timing alignment is then determined by proper orientation of the housing with respect to the block when you clamp it down.
I don't think I agree with that. You could put the housing in completely opposite of the way it came out so long as the sensor and the wheel align correctly. If you are going to forget to put a mark it shouldn't be the sensor/wheel mark. It is the relationship between the sensor and that wheel that determines timing not how the body fits the engine block.

Quote:
...

The oil pump drive end is also somewhat worn.
I've seen a lot of worn shaft tips. There is a little play in the fit of the slotted end and the oil pump hole so it creates load on that section.

Quote:
What worries me the most is the cam shaft. This is the best pic I could get. I didn't notice when I was looking at it in person (but then, I couldn't really see it that well), but I wonder if that gear tooth is chipped at the end? Can someone (please) tell me that this looks normal?
Normal is relative to this crowd. The crucial part is were the gears make contact. They do that in the center. The end of the gear will sharpen and eventually wear away.

In the pic below you can see the wear on the camshaft gear right where the red arrow is pointing. The edges are weaker than the center. The higher ZDDP should help the wear between the gears.



Quote:
One last observation. The drive assembly rotated smoothly and easily by hand - on par with the brand new unit. However the top of the OPDA (inside the housing on the metal surface just below the wheel), where the sensor wheel is located, was covered with a bunch of small pieces of black crud. Maybe bits of burned and dried up grease that had worked their way out the top of the bushing?
Don't know for sure what that is. I've seen it and can't say for sure. It doesn't look like the factory grease, but I suppose it could be used grease that has slung off.
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Unread 01-24-2011, 01:59 PM   #1581
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revised answer below - couldn't figure out how to delete this
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Unread 01-24-2011, 02:05 PM   #1582
kgginslc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
I don't think I agree with that. You could put the housing in completely opposite of the way it came out so long as the sensor and the wheel align correctly. If you are going to forget to put a mark it shouldn't be the sensor/wheel mark. It is the relationship between the sensor and that wheel that determines timing not how the body fits the engine block.
First - if anyone wants to know how to do this, just look at willydigger's video. What follows below is unnecessary detail.

That said, I'm not really disagreeing with you, just trying to point out that there could be some error introduced because the wheel is free to rotate a few degrees after the OPDA is installed. So, if you try to line up the housing marks with the wheel, you don't know whether you should rotate the wheel to its maximum CW, or CCW, or in the middle.

But, IF you re-insert the OPDA so that the teeth are engaged just as they were when you took it out, (as you very nicely described in your video), then if the housing is locked down in the same spot relative to the block you don't need to be worried about the slop in the wheel. I just thought this might help some people avoid getting the CEL.

Clearly, you do need to mark the wheel relative to the housing as part of the removal and re-install process. I don't mean to dissuade anyone from doing that.

I also agree with you that if you don't get the same teeth engaged, then you could still get the correct outcome by rotating the housing with respect to the block but maintaining the same relationship of wheel and sensor. I think you'd still have to worry about the slop in the wheel though.

I guess if you had the foresight to rotate the wheel to max CW or CCW before marking and removing it, and then did the same thing upon re-installing, you would also have compensated for that slop.

Anyway - this all makes it sound so complicated. It's not really. Your video explains it very well and makes it easy to do the job.
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Unread 01-24-2011, 02:27 PM   #1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgginslc View Post
First - if anyone wants to know how to do this, just look at willydigger's video. What follows below is unnecessary detail.

That said, I'm not really disagreeing with you, just trying to point out that there could be some error introduced because the wheel is free to rotate a few degrees after the OPDA is installed. So, if you try to line up the housing marks with the wheel, you don't know whether you should rotate the wheel to its maximum CW, or CCW, or in the middle.

But, IF you re-insert the OPDA so that the teeth are engaged just as they were when you took it out, (as you very nicely described in your video), then if the housing is locked down in the same spot relative to the block you don't need to be worried about the slop in the wheel. I just thought this might help some people avoid getting the CEL.

Clearly, you do need to mark the wheel relative to the housing as part of the removal and re-install process. I don't mean to dissuade anyone from doing that.

I also agree with you that if you don't get the same teeth engaged, then you could still get the correct outcome by rotating the housing with respect to the block but maintaining the same relationship of wheel and sensor. I think you'd still have to worry about the slop in the wheel though.

I guess if you had the foresight to rotate the wheel to max CW or CCW before marking and removing it, and then did the same thing upon re-installing, you would also have compensated for that slop.

Anyway - this all makes it sound so complicated. It's not really. Your video explains it very well and makes it easy to do the job.
I see your point. The computer will adjust for that slop. I can't recall how much it will adjust but if you get the lines matched the computer will handle the rest. We are all just eyeballing with the sharpie. Close enough is good enough in this case.
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Unread 01-24-2011, 02:37 PM   #1584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgginslc View Post
Now, the results:

My OPDA gear looks a lot like many others I've seen in this thread. I'll definitely be installing the new, modified version as soon as possible. And switching to the Mobil1 5W40 turbo diesel oil.

The oil pump drive end is also somewhat worn.

What worries me the most is the cam shaft. This is the best pic I could get. I didn't notice when I was looking at it in person (but then, I couldn't really see it that well), but I wonder if that gear tooth is chipped at the end? Can someone (please) tell me that this looks normal?

One last observation. The drive assembly rotated smoothly and easily by hand - on par with the brand new unit. However the top of the OPDA (inside the housing on the metal surface just below the wheel), where the sensor wheel is located, was covered with a bunch of small pieces of black crud. Maybe bits of burned and dried up grease that had worked their way out the top of the bushing?
kgginslc,

I had the same wear on the end of the shaft that drives the oil pump. I also had the same "small pieces of black crud" you described which you can see in my pictures below.

I am pulling the OPDA this weekend to install the FogMOD. I will obtain additional pictures then. I recall seeing similar wear on the camshaft like what you see. I have also seen the same wear from pictures other users have posted.





You can see my full findings by clicking here.
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Unread 01-24-2011, 03:55 PM   #1585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgginslc View Post
However the top of the OPDA (inside the housing on the metal surface just below the wheel), where the sensor wheel is located, was covered with a bunch of small pieces of black crud. Maybe bits of burned and dried up grease that had worked their way out the top of the bushing?
I had the same stuff in mine
opda-013.jpg

I figure it's either
A.Grease
B.Plastic from the bushing under the sensor wheel
C.Plastic from the cover
D.The charred remains of a document Chrysler had proving this part is defective
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Unread 01-24-2011, 05:14 PM   #1586
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Does anyone have a decent amount of miles on a new opda that was mated to a old camshaft?
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Unread 01-26-2011, 11:37 AM   #1587
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opda question

have an 06 tl with 65k. runs good but just in case, worried about the "ticking time bomb", my question is What is the part no of the odpa, and who has them in stock?
thanks
ted
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Unread 01-26-2011, 11:51 AM   #1588
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Originally Posted by fdoepel View Post
have an 06 tl with 65k. runs good but just in case, worried about the "ticking time bomb", my question is What is the part no of the odpa, and who has them in stock?
thanks
ted
Have a look at the link below. It should have everything you need to know.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/2005-06-jeep-opda_cps_distributor-failure-1144202/


As far as stock, they are back ordered until early February.
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Unread 01-26-2011, 11:55 AM   #1589
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Originally Posted by HardcoreHeath View Post
Does anyone have a decent amount of miles on a new opda that was mated to a old camshaft?
I have one that was new (unmodded) that was mated to the existing camshaft gear with 5000 miles. There was some wear in the center of the gear teeth as expected. The new modded gear has about 1000 miles. Not very high in the grand scheme. Both have a little wear in the center. Below is the modded OPDA with only 500 miles. This would be the wear I would expect.

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Unread 01-26-2011, 09:30 PM   #1590
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Thanks.
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2006 , 4.0 , camshaft , replacement , tj , warranty , wrangler

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