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Unread 02-12-2011, 11:02 AM   #1
tjrex
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choosing gears and axle for tj

I have a 2001 tj i have a 6" rough country suspension lift and 35" tires on it i know i want to put lockers in the front and rear but before that i need to make sure i made the right decision on the axle and gear ratio i am going to be using my jeep mostly for offroading and rock crawling so it needs to be strong but i also want it to be road capable as i need to drive it to where we go and i still use it occasionally to drive to work or the ocean

if anyone can help me out with picking what i need it would be greatly appreciated

i would rather spend the money up front then having to keep replacing axles and end up having to swap it out again
thank you
chris

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Unread 02-12-2011, 11:15 AM   #2
bombman0513
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First off, what kind of wheeling are planning on doing, cause as long as you stay under 35" you might be ok, but you will want to regear to at least 4:11 or 4:56 to bring it back up to spec for highway driving w/ less torque or go with 4:88 or 5:13 and get more torque w/ less gas mileage and lower top speed..there is a lot going on when you regear. There are charts around to help with your ratio. Or you could go with just upgrading your shafts when you do your regear. Or you could regear, upgrade shafts and up your spline count, or you could just replace your entire housing and all the guts. What kind of $$$ are you thinking of putting into it, cause the sky is the limit on how far you can go. If I could afford to do it, I would go straight for RockJock 60's or Dynatracs.. and 5:13 Yukons. OX or ARB Lockers w/ 37's with King coilovers all around, but I havent won the lottery yet,,. For 35's on a 6" lift just upgrade to a higher spline count and better alloys and 4:56 or 4:88. If you really must do a complete upgrade of axles w/ less $$$$$, you can do Dana 44 in front and 60 in the rear or D44's or 60's F/R or 60 in front 8 inch rear,on and on it goes.., get axles from a junk yard and do the gears and axle shafts yourself or have a shop do it.. its cheaper to have the shop do the work with the axle off the vehicle anyway,just make sure they have experience setting up gears, its more of an art than anything. you can tear them apart and clean em up and they should do the build for you from the housings, w/ new seals, bearings, gears,shafts,etc etc.Keep in mind that the front axles are always more expensive than the rears. .
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Unread 02-12-2011, 11:33 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjrex View Post
I have a 2001 tj i have a 6" rough country suspension lift and 35" tires on it i know i want to put lockers in the front and rear but before that i need to make sure i made the right decision on the axle and gear ratio
what engine and transmission do you have ?
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Unread 02-12-2011, 11:43 AM   #4
tjrex
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its the 4 litre straight 6 automatic we mostly do rock crawling before my lift i would just find a way around the obstacles that i couldnt go through i havnt been since i put my lift on though but ive heard once u put lockers on a dana 30 and 35 with bigger tires you tend to snap axles easy i dont have alot of money but id rather have to save up then keep buying axles i know i want to get arb lockers so im not locked when im doin my daily driving but other than that im not sure whats needed and whats over the top and pointless to buy
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Unread 02-12-2011, 12:22 PM   #5
Wheelin98TJ
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With the 3 speed auto and 35" tires, I'd go with 4.56.

You might wish you had 4.10 the few times you hit 75+ MPH, but you'll appreciate the 4.56 gears anytime else.
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Unread 02-12-2011, 01:33 PM   #6
tjrex
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what about snapping akles is that gonna be a problem or will the stck ones be tough enough
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Unread 02-12-2011, 01:53 PM   #7
bombman0513
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I would at a minimum upgrade to alloy shafts,, but, the issue you run into is, is it enough. If you take it easy and dont drive like a maniac on the trails you may be OK. The 30's and 35's axles werent meant to have 35" tires spinning on the end of them. Especially if you run lockers. I would see if you can find a junk Rubicon and pull the axles off and get the 4.11 gears, air lockers, and D44 axles, (even though the front arent true 44's), dont forget to pull the switch and air compressor/lines while you are under there. Then you can upgrade shafts, gearing etc later.. IF YOU CAN FIND ONE>>> that is. Otherwise look at other junked vehicles for 60's or 8.8 inch axles off of a junk Ford Explorer or something.
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Unread 02-12-2011, 02:12 PM   #8
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what about snapping akles is that gonna be a problem or will the stck ones be tough enough
what axles do you have now?
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Unread 02-12-2011, 02:23 PM   #9
cheapjeep06
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Post #4 says 30 and 35...
Don't know of a 8" rear...ford has 8.8 and 9"
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Unread 02-12-2011, 02:56 PM   #10
bombman0513
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are you serious, dont be so hypercritical, you know i meant the 8.8
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Unread 02-12-2011, 02:59 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by bombman0513 View Post
are you serious, dont be so hypercritical, you know i meant the 8.8
No, I had no idea if you meant 8.8 or 9".
I've heard of d60 front, built 9" rear combo, but not d60/ 8.8 combo.
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Rustys blows big, fat camel nuts.
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Unread 02-12-2011, 03:07 PM   #12
slafferty
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i'd go with either a d44 out of a tj or an 8.8. Upgrade your front or get an hp30 and upgrade it and youll be fine. Dont go d60 unless your pannin on 38's+
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Unread 02-12-2011, 07:17 PM   #13
tjrex
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if i was to go with an axle out of somthing other than a jeep how hard is it to convert over to be able to use it in my tj
sorry if im asking to many? i just wanna be as knowledgable about it as i can before i make my choice
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Unread 02-12-2011, 07:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bombman0513 View Post
are you serious, dont be so hypercritical, you know i meant the 8.8
not hypercritical...Ford made an 8" rear end.

here's a shiny race prepped version:


Quote:
Originally Posted by tjrex View Post
if i was to go with an axle out of somthing other than a jeep how hard is it to convert over to be able to use it in my tj
sorry if im asking to many? i just wanna be as knowledgable about it as i can before i make my choice
cutting, welding, fabrication, some geometry. you'd need to cut the old brackets off, weld new brackets on, and address whatever else needs to be changed...bolt pattern in some cases, brake lines in some cases, e-brake cable issues, disc brake vs drum brake, driveshaft attachment, etc.
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Unread 02-13-2011, 06:34 AM   #15
tjrex
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thanks for all the help guys i will deffinantly take all this info into consideration when looking for what i need im going to start pricing the different combinations of what you guys gave me it is greatly appreciated
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