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changing trans fluid and filter - help
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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changing trans fluid and filter - help
Okay so i decided i wanted to change my trans fluid and filter. Also set to change the fluid in transfer case. Upon removing five of the six bolts holding the trans and transfer case skid plate i notice four nuts holding the trans mount. I jacked it back up in place but now the side that had all the bolts out does not line up?
![]() So here is my questions. Should i continue to remove the skid plate? It appeared to me that the sp had to be removed in order to remove all the screws holding the trans pan up. If i take the sp down do i need to support the back of the trans? Did i need to mess with the sp at all? (looked like this would be easiest way to do the fluid/filter change) Any help would be appreciated. 32rh trans
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A person once told me i was driving beyond the capabilities of my vehicle - obviously they never seen the capabilities of a jeep! This space saved for info: |
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#2 |
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I drained the trans and filter without touching the skid plate. It was not difficult at all from what I remember.
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White '97 TJ 2.5l I-4, 30rh 3-speed auto, NV231 T-Case, D30/D35c Axles, 3.73 gears, 4.0l throttle body, Raptor lined tub, Smittybilt G.E.A.R. seat covers and tailgate rig, factory hard top, Bestop soft top/Safari top/Wind Jammer...more as it breaks! |
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#3 | |
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Quote:
When you drain the transfer case do you just let the oil run into the skid plate?
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#4 |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California, California
Posts: 54,492
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Remove the four small nuts in the center of the skidplate that hold the tranny mount first, then remove the six big skidplate bolts and drop the main transfer case skidplate. Make sure you placed a support or jack under the transmission in front of the skidplate first to support the transmission and transfer case before dropping the skidplate. Then when lifting the skidplate back into place, align the four center slots for the tranny mount bolts first so they are protruding through, then lift it the rest of the way up against the frame and insert the six main bolts. Then after the skidplate is back up and tight, reinstall the four nuts that hold the transmission mount.
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Virginia Beach, Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 125
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If you do decide to drop the skid plate be sure to support the transmission with a jack, the skid plate holds all of that up. When I drop mine I support it right from where the engine joins the transmission on the bellhousing.
To answer your question, I don't see any problems with letting the oil run into the skid plate. That's the way I do it sometimes. Just make sure you clean it up well. |
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#6 | |
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Quote:
Should i not worry about that until i go to put it all back together? Is there anything that could have gotten damaged when the skid dropped down one or two inches?
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#7 |
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while i had the skid plate loose i went ahead and dropped the trans pan.
Not what i wanted to see - dark red fluid(guess better then pepto besmo color). Slight burnt smell but not real bad. I sprayed the four trans mount bolts with pb blaster. They don't want to budge. As far as they go if i can get the new filter and gasket in with no troubles and the transfer case fluid done. I may not worry about taking the skid out completely and just leave the mount hooked in. Still wondering about when the skid dropped a few inches and how easy will it be to get it lined up and install the six bolts that hold it in place. Any suggestions?
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A person once told me i was driving beyond the capabilities of my vehicle - obviously they never seen the capabilities of a jeep! This space saved for info: |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I just reached back and did it by feel. It really was not hard. And I just put the drain pan under the hole in the t-case skid. Its only a jeep so i dont care where the oil goes. Whiped the rest with some rags when it was done.
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White '97 TJ 2.5l I-4, 30rh 3-speed auto, NV231 T-Case, D30/D35c Axles, 3.73 gears, 4.0l throttle body, Raptor lined tub, Smittybilt G.E.A.R. seat covers and tailgate rig, factory hard top, Bestop soft top/Safari top/Wind Jammer...more as it breaks! |
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#9 |
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trans and transfer case done.
I did learn a few things while doing this job. ![]() One interesting thing. I broke my socket trying to remove skid plate bolts and found my old tire iron fit perfect. Actually worked very well and yes it will stay in the jeep. Just need to figure out how to secure it.
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A person once told me i was driving beyond the capabilities of my vehicle - obviously they never seen the capabilities of a jeep! This space saved for info: |
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#10 |
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All fluids done with the exceptions power steer,brake,and washer.
Wow what a difference. Took her for about a 15 minute test drive. I used mopar atf+4 and Lucas stop slip in transmission. For the transfer case i used straight mopar atf+4. Shifts much smoother and launches from stops you can actually feel! I put valvoline 80/90 in the diffs. Prestone extended life coolant in cooling system.
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