Changing all fluids in my 4.0l LJ, need a shopping list...

DunerDude · 07-26-2009, 06:47 PM

So I think its time to change all the fluids in my jeep next weekend. I have searched but some threads say different then others and because this is the first time all the fluids (other then engine oil) has been changed I would like to make sure I get it right. I drive 30 miles to work everymorning (freeway) if that changes anything, 25% of driving is city.
If I understood correctly, synthetics can increase gas mileage (don't really care if I do, but I DON'T want to reduce) and held reduce EXTERIOR heat (but keeps heat inside with moving parts? not good IMO)

I run NAPA's gold oil filter and there 10w40 motor oil, changed every 3k. Is there a better option? What should I avoid? Does that sludge reducing mumbo jumbo really work?

After I change the fluids I plan on using the Lucas powerfoam and somw STP fuel system cleaner in my gas tank. Good idea?

I bought my jeep a year ago from a man in Az. with 6k miles, I now have just over 34k today. Should I flush my coolant as well? seems too soon to me.

So what I am asking is for a "grocery list" that I can take down to Schucks or Napa. I appreciate all your help honestly, without you guy's (and gal's) I'd be lost!

**Knuckelhead** · 07-26-2009, 06:58 PM

The FSM will tell you what needs to be changed...

**GOLENJEEPTJ** · 07-26-2009, 07:01 PM

So will the owners manual?

**Jerry Bransford** · 07-26-2009, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DunerDude

After I change the fluids I plan on using the Lucas powerfoam and somw STP fuel system cleaner in my gas tank. Good idea?

No, save your $$$. Unlike older gasolines with insufficient cleaning additives that allowed the injectors to clog, today's modern gasolines already contain enough fuel injector cleaning additives to keep your injectors spotless. That is a "dirty little secret" of all the various fuel injector cleaning additive manufacturers who reap huge profits by making people think they should be used on a regular basis.

For the rest of it, we'll need to know what tranny you have before a complete list can be recommended. Telling us your tranny is "stock" doesn't say whether it's a manual or automatic (and please update your Profile to clear that ambiguity up too).

DunerDude · 07-26-2009, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

No, save your $$$. Unlike older gasolines with insufficient cleaning additives that allowed the injectors to clog, today's modern gasolines already contain enough fuel injector cleaning additives to keep your injectors spotless. That is a "dirty little secret" of all the various fuel injector cleaning additive manufacturers who reap huge profits by making people think they should be used on a regular basis.

For the rest of it, we'll need to know what tranny you have before a complete list can be recommended. Telling us your tranny is "stock" doesn't say whether it's a manual or automatic (and please update your Profile to clear that ambiguity up too).

Thanks for replying Jerry, everytime I read one of your posts I learn and trust what you say

It is an automatic with the overdrive.
I do not have any sort of locker, just the stock ?trac-lock? that came with the d44. It is not a rubicon

**Jerry Bransford** · 07-26-2009, 08:20 PM

Personally, I'd run a synthetic ATF+4 in your transmission. Valvoline makes a very good quality synthetic ATF+4 and is what I run in my auto tranny. Yours requires an ATF+4 but for the tranny and transfer case, I like a synthetic. Literally any good quality ATF is fine in your transfer case, you can run the same ATF+4 in it as in your automatic transmission to keep things simple.

For your engine, any good quality 10W-30 is fine, I love non-synthetic Valvoline though I'd happily run Havoline, Pennzoil, Mobil, or any major brand. I personally don't believe the added cost of a synthetic motor oil is warranted except for when it is needed for extremely cold conditions like in Alaska, North Dakota, Buffalo NY, etc.

Nearly any good quality GL-5 or GL-6 gear lube is fine for your axles. Axles are not as fussy about the viscosity gear lube they run on as our engines are. In cooler areas, a 70W-80, 80W-90, 75W-90 is fine. If you tow or wheel in tough conditions, a heavier viscosity like 80W-140, 90W-140, etc. is fine. Personally, I believe the harder you wheel, the more you should lean towards a non-synthetic gear lube for your axles. Many axle builders are finding out that their axle ring & pinion gears run cooler in dino/non-synthetic gear lubes and I have bought into that 100%. If you do have a Tracloc rear LSD, just make sure any gear lube you use says something like "Compatible with limited slip differentials". The vast majority of gear lubes are compatible with limited slip differentials. In those that are, they have the friction modifier additive the Trackloc LSD requires which is also fully compatible with axles that don't ave a Tracloc LSD so you can use the same gear lube in your front axle too. Enjoy.

DunerDude · 07-26-2009, 09:32 PM

Thanks!
Whats the difference between GL-5 and GL-6?
How many quarts will I need for the tranny, transfercase, and diffs?

**crqflier** · 07-26-2009, 10:53 PM

All fluid capacities are here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/faq-fluid-capacities-489932/