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Unread 08-10-2010, 06:22 PM   #31
wushaw
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Why are spending a fortune on diff oil? It's diff oil. Buy Valvoline or Coastal 80w90 and 4oz of limited slip additive for the rear and be done with it. And yes, you still need to change the front fluid regardless if its under load or not. They're still spinning at the same speed as the rear, regardless of whether you're in 4wd or not. There's still friction, heat, oil breakdown and such.

You're way overthinking this and trying to figure out a way to "cheat the system". It ain't that complicated, just do it.

There is not going to be the same heat generated by the ft. axle like the rear drive axle due to the load factor.

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Unread 08-10-2010, 06:26 PM   #32
DstroyrOfWrldz
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
And yes, you still need to change the front fluid regardless if its under load or not. They're still spinning at the same speed as the rear, regardless of whether you're in 4wd or not. There's still friction, heat, oil breakdown and such.
I dont know if that segment was partially directed at me, but my comment about the front diff not being loaded like the rear was meant only to pertain to the use of alternate viscoties for trailer towing.

I'm finally going to get around to changing them tomorrow, I guess I'm gonna put the 85W140 in the rear and 80W90 in the front since I can't think of any reason why not. Like I said if the 75W140 synthetic is an upgrade, then 85W140 dino should be an upgrade, just maybe less of one. At least thats how it works in my brain.
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Unread 08-10-2010, 06:32 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by DstroyrOfWrldz View Post
I'm finally going to get around to changing them tomorrow, I guess I'm gonna put the 85W140 in the rear and 80W90 in the front since I can't think of any reason why not. Like I said if the 75W140 synthetic is an upgrade, then 85W140 dino should be an upgrade, just maybe less of one. At least thats how it works in my brain.
85w140w is only an upgrade if your towing.
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Unread 08-11-2010, 02:24 AM   #34
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85w140w is only an upgrade if your towing.
I don't tow on a daily or even weekly basis, and I don't tow anything like a boat, RV or car hauler but there are times when I will tow a sea doo or a small trailer full of brush, rubble from one of my "home improvement" projects, or 900lbs worth of motorcycles.
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Unread 08-11-2010, 12:12 PM   #35
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Thanks for the tips and links everyone. But to address my original post, just why is it that we need to change every 12K? I ask this because the owner's manual doesn't say this for any other vehicle I've owned. It's usually "change the rear diff oil if the diff has a posi after 5000 miles, after that, for the life of the vehicle simply check the diff oil level periodically and top it off as necessary". Are our diff's weak junk or something?
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Unread 08-11-2010, 12:37 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by 05Unlimited View Post
Thanks for the tips and links everyone. But to address my original post, just why is it that we need to change every 12K? I ask this because the owner's manual doesn't say this for any other vehicle I've owned. It's usually "change the rear diff oil if the diff has a posi after 5000 miles, after that, for the life of the vehicle simply check the diff oil level periodically and top it off as necessary". Are our diff's weak junk or something?
why does engine oil turn black & get dirty? why doesn't it last forever? why do you change it every 3-4k?

this guy went 46k w/o changing the diff fluid...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bl...-diff-1086591/

oil doesn't last forever...it breaks down over time, absorbs junk from gears, atmosphere, looses its lubricity & heat transfer capability, etc....i thought that was common sense...
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Unread 08-11-2010, 12:52 PM   #37
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I have a 10yr old 115k jeep.

I only just recently changed the Diff fluid; kinda regretted the wait but my lash is good.

Tranny fluid and filter was changed at like 60-70k and did a partial change with a radiator swap fluid looks and smells good.

I only recently changed my transfer case fluid and regretted that wait too, but I dont do much 4 wheeling.

I say if you are normal, 30k + for diff is fine, transfer case with transmission at 50k, and who the hell ever changes the brake fluid?????

If you off road alot then you should maintain your mods and vehicle according to wear. My rear diffs only have a rubber plug holding in the lube.
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Unread 08-11-2010, 07:15 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by RedScare View Post
and who the hell ever changes the brake fluid?????
I do.
Do some research and you'll find that it's recommended to be changed every 2 years...
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Unread 08-12-2010, 08:32 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
why does engine oil turn black & get dirty? why doesn't it last forever? why do you change it every 3-4k?

this guy went 46k w/o changing the diff fluid...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bl...-diff-1086591/

oil doesn't last forever...it breaks down over time, absorbs junk from gears, atmosphere, looses its lubricity & heat transfer capability, etc....i thought that was common sense...
In your defense I agree, however as I said nearly every owner's manual I've had before merely states to check the diff-fluid levels and top them off as necessary. Just wondering what the difference is here ....a better owner's manual, or weaker differential gears .....or both? I'm the third owner of this 46K mile Jeep and I know the T-case was serviced at 30K. Not sure of the rest so I'm going to do both diff's and the tranny (even though the manual says to never change the tranny). I still feel that the front diff won't need changing as often as the rear. Good thing is I only put about 8K/year on my Jeep and off road it only a few times per year.... so I'll only be doing diff's every couple years or so.

It seems that the best tranny gear oil is actually Amsoil Synchromesh or Redline ....both of which can be hard to find ..... For the diff's I agree with you, going to go conventional since I'll be changing it in a couple years anyway. Thanks for the input.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 11:21 PM   #40
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Sheesh I have a stupid question but the manual is of no help. HOW MUCH gear oil do I need? ...2 quarts for each differential? I know to fill it until it starts spilling out of the fill hole but how much do I need to buy to do both diff's? I already have some Permatex BLUE RTV ....will that suffice or do I really need the black? It says it can be used up to 600* degrees ....it's old and has been in my garage for years, it's called "Super BLUE Silicone" by VersaHem and is "type 613". Just want to use it up if it's ok. "makes instant leak proof gasket"
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Unread 08-13-2010, 12:24 AM   #41
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i always use black, but I can't tell you for sure that blue wont work.

Both differentials take more than 1 qt and less than 2. If you're using the same fluid for both you might have enough with 3 quarts but I'd just grab 2 for each.
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Unread 08-13-2010, 07:47 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by DstroyrOfWrldz View Post
i always use black, but I can't tell you for sure that blue wont work.

Both differentials take more than 1 qt and less than 2. If you're using the same fluid for both you might have enough with 3 quarts but I'd just grab 2 for each.
Thanks! Hey another question ....which typical auto parts store is more likely to carry Amsoil Synthetic Synchromesh? (ie. Advanced, Napa, Autozone)
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Unread 08-13-2010, 08:34 AM   #43
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Interesting information, apparently GM Synchromesh = Penzoil = Quaker State = Texaco = Mopar and all should meet MS-9224 whether it says so or not (from some other reading):

The information presented here is gathered from the documents listed in the References section below.

Pennzoil-Quaker State Synchromesh is a unique transmission and transaxle fluid that is not API "GL" rated. It has an approximate gear oil grade of about SAE 80W and can be used when temperatures range from -40F (-40C) to 300F (150C). According to Pennzoil's product description it is "formulated with high quality paraffinic base stocks, a fluidity modifier, multifunctional performance additives, corrosion inhibitors, a foam suppressor and a shear stable viscosity index improver additive. It provides excellent oxidation stability, low temperature performance, excellent synchronizer performance and compatibility with yellow metals, such as bronze, brass and copper components found in manual transaxles and transmissions." This description makes Synchromesh suitable for use in some transaxles or transmissions where GL-4 gear oils are specified.

A post on the message board at Machinery Lubrication Magazine Home found Synchromesh to consist of a 5W30 non-detergent oil with a friction modifer and an EP (extreme pressure) additive. It is made under contract for General Motors by Pennzoil (APC 3378) or by Texaco (Code 1874 MTX Fluid).

According to Don Johnson, Synchromesh fluid was developed for use in the New Venture manual transmission used by Chrysler and General Motors. Specifically, Synchromesh is formulated for transmissions that require GM Part No. 12345349 (Specification No. 9985648), GM Part No. 12345577, or Chrysler Part No. 4874464 (Specification MS-9224). Owners of Diamond Star Motors (DSM) Eclipse, Talon, and Laser cars with MMC (Mitsubishi Motor Corporation) transaxles have reported positive experiences using Synchromesh. The same can be said for owners of the Mitsubishi 3000GT and Dodge Stealth cars with the Getrag-manufactured AWD transaxles. The main benefit to DSM and 3/S owners seems to be excellent synchronizer performance, with reduced grinding and easier shifting compared to using some other gear oils.

Pennzoil Synchromesh Fluid can be purchased as that brand or as the equivalent products: Quaker State Synchromesh (Quaker State is part of Pennzoil), Texaco Synchromesh, GM Synchromesh, or AC Delco Synchromesh (part number 89021808). GM Synchromesh retails for about $10 per quart bottle at GM dealerships. Pennzoil Synchromesh is sold at many Auto Zone auto parts stores for about $5 per quart and should be available from Pennzoil distributors. Texaco Express Lube stores use Synchromesh but the stores I contacted would not sell the product by itself to customers. Pennzoil Synchromesh can be purchased in 5-gallon containers from oil-store.com.
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Unread 08-13-2010, 10:14 AM   #44
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Went to Advanced and got the Penzoil Synchromesh, at least it's available ...and right on the bottle it says it's MS-9224 sufficient. Got Penzoil 80/90 gear oil and some LS lube, black RTV ...now just have to buy 13mm and 17mm hex sockets (for tranny) .....Advanced didn't have them but Autozone probably will. Gonna change everything out and grease the front end so I don't have to worry for awhile.

What else really needs greased besides the four fittings up front?
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Unread 08-13-2010, 10:37 AM   #45
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my girl is 10 years old with 50k on her 18k when i bought it.

it's my DD and i'm pretty sure i'v flushed my trannsimisson twice already. i have an automatic though. did my diff's at 30k so their due prolly do that this weekend. gives me something to do.

flushing the trans is easy on a automatic the only thing that sucks about it is the amount of fluid you waste.

anyone know of a way to just completely drain all the Trans fluid out?
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