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Unread 02-09-2010, 05:04 PM   #76
ohiobeach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
I wouldn't use a radiator barn product for a door stop...
what was wrong with your radiator? I bought one last year and I will get this Mcchampion if Radiator Barn is crap.

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Unread 02-09-2010, 06:23 PM   #77
Robert J. yates
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Been there done that on the copper Radiator Barn special. It didn't work worth a crap and ended up cracking at the bottom tank so advising folks to go with a $175 copper replacement is in my experience, not very good.

As for aluminum radiators having durability issues.... aluminum radiators are stock from the factory which means they were subjected to Jeeps' durability testing. Yes they can leak at the tank but then that can be repaired by anybody with a pair of channel locks and a gasket. My Novak aluminum radiator has been in my Jeep over 3 years now with NO problems. Its fits, its clean and frankly, unless I roll my Jeep and crush it or push the fan into it, I seriously doubt that it is going to cause me anymore problems than the STOCK ALUMINUM radiator did. (caps for emphasis) There are more than a few trail fixes for leaking radiators which do not care what the metal involved is.
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Unread 02-09-2010, 06:32 PM   #78
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gosh why does everyone like electric fans? ive heard more bad things about them and the pain the are to install than i have leaving the stock belt fan in...

does it really matter that getting an all aluminum radiator you should also get an electric fan
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Unread 02-09-2010, 07:04 PM   #79
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Yes they can leak at the tank but then that can be repaired by anybody with a pair of channel locks and a gasket.
I did try crimping them back together and I think it helped a little bit. Is it really possible to change the gasket?
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Unread 02-09-2010, 07:06 PM   #80
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thanks, Billymac
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Unread 02-09-2010, 07:06 PM   #81
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the best temp fix is a raw egg dumped into the radiator saw it on mythbusters. it worked lol

in regards to durability, off road and on road motorsports have been using aluminum radiators for years.

As far as cost. Champion is selling a fully tigged Aluminum radiator, 3 row construction, rated to almost 800hp for $200.00 other advantages of the aluminum is the tube sizes and amount of fins that can be utilized over the Copper/brass
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Unread 02-09-2010, 07:22 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohiobeach View Post
what was wrong with your radiator? I bought one last year and I will get this Mcchampion if Radiator Barn is crap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert J. yates View Post
Been there done that on the copper Radiator Barn special. It didn't work worth a crap and ended up cracking at the bottom tank so advising folks to go with a $175 copper replacement is in my experience, not very good.

As for aluminum radiators having durability issues.... aluminum radiators are stock from the factory which means they were subjected to Jeeps' durability testing. Yes they can leak at the tank but then that can be repaired by anybody with a pair of channel locks and a gasket. My Novak aluminum radiator has been in my Jeep over 3 years now with NO problems. Its fits, its clean and frankly, unless I roll my Jeep and crush it or push the fan into it, I seriously doubt that it is going to cause me anymore problems than the STOCK ALUMINUM radiator did. (caps for emphasis) There are more than a few trail fixes for leaking radiators which do not care what the metal involved is.
Yep...
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Unread 02-09-2010, 09:28 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by purplepig View Post
I did try crimping them back together and I think it helped a little bit. Is it really possible to change the gasket?
This is another one of the flaws with a plastic/aluminum radiator. Many folks think you can 'easily' change the tanks/gaskets whatever with just a screwdriver and some chanel locks. Ever bend an aluminum tab on something and then bend it back? Yeah, 90% of the time it snaps off. While some folks will tell you that you can 'easily repair' a PAL radiator or replace it's tanks, they're in it for your money or haven't worked with rads that much.

Yes, there is a crimp tool that's specifically designed to un-crimp the tabs on a PAL radiator so you can theoretically remove the tank and gasket and TOC/EOC. Yes, the tool does a great job un-crimping the tabs. The issue is when you replace the tank and gasket and cooler, re-crimping the tabs which are attached to the headplate and core, they either snap off completely or don't hold worth a damn. You leak anyway. =/
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Unread 02-09-2010, 09:43 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert J. yates View Post
Been there done that on the copper Radiator Barn special. It didn't work worth a crap and ended up cracking at the bottom tank so advising folks to go with a $175 copper replacement is in my experience, not very good.
The only rebuttal I have for your comment is, if you buy cheapo-depot specials, you'll probably get cheapo-depot special performance out of them...

Buy a quality part and you'll most likely get quality performance out of that part.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert J. yates View Post
As for aluminum radiators having durability issues.... aluminum radiators are stock from the factory which means they were subjected to Jeeps' durability testing. Yes they can leak at the tank but then that can be repaired by anybody with a pair of channel locks and a gasket. My Novak aluminum radiator has been in my Jeep over 3 years now with NO problems. Its fits, its clean and frankly, unless I roll my Jeep and crush it or push the fan into it, I seriously doubt that it is going to cause me anymore problems than the STOCK ALUMINUM radiator did. (caps for emphasis) There are more than a few trail fixes for leaking radiators which do not care what the metal involved is.
You're absolutely right. Plastic/Aluminum radiators are great! They obviously are or just about every single auto manufacturer on the planet wouldn't be using them! You're also right that unless you do something pretty aggressive to your rig, that radiator will probably be 100% fine for your application.

My comments suggesting an upgrade to a copper/brass radiator instead of an "ALL aluminum" (keep in mind, all alum and PAL are two COMPLETELY different beasts) were based upon the person's interest in an all aluminum upgrade. If they were intending on showing their rig or basically wanting/needing the extra "Bling" under the hood, then an all aluminum with billet cap and diamond-studded mounting bolts are definitely the way to go!

But, for half the price, a do-it-yourself'er could upgrade the durability of their stock rad by replacing it with a repairable CBR part. The stock PAL rads are not something that should be repaired and expected to offer continued reliable service.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 07:53 AM   #85
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the best temp fix is a raw egg dumped into the radiator saw it on mythbusters
Not a good idea, unless you want to cause other problems down the road.
After reading everyones comments, I have decided to go with the factory style. It lasted for 90K miles, so hopefully I will get that out of a new one. By the way, it is still cooling great, just a leak at the crimp that I have been watching for months now. Maybe I can find one with a lifetime warranty. Where is a good place to buy one? It seems that Radiator Barn and Radiator Express are out.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 08:36 AM   #86
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yeah the only reason im replacing my stocker is there is brown liquid all in the radiator
it shouldnt be oil because my oil level/pressure is steady.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 09:17 AM   #87
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yeah the only reason im replacing my stocker is there is brown liquid all in the radiator
it shouldnt be oil because my oil level/pressure is steady.
When was the last time you flushed/filled it?

Is it the factory antifreeze? You know, the orange specialty stuff(OATS or dex-cool or whatever ... no, I know they're not the same) or is it normal green classic antifreeze that has the brown goo in it?
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Unread 02-10-2010, 10:00 AM   #88
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I think I'm about due for a new radiator just got a leak in my CSF All-metal . Still debating wether to got with a CSF Aluminum radiator or a Champion Aluminum. I just dont like all that Chrome on the Champions. But looks and sounds like a good radiator.

CSF Inc. - Illustration And Specifications
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Unread 02-10-2010, 10:20 AM   #89
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You know, the orange specialty stuff(OATS or dex-cool or whatever ... no, I know they're not the same)
Its Zerex not Dex-Cool
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Unread 02-10-2010, 11:30 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by billymac4511 View Post
When was the last time you flushed/filled it?

Is it the factory antifreeze? You know, the orange specialty stuff(OATS or dex-cool or whatever ... no, I know they're not the same) or is it normal green classic antifreeze that has the brown goo in it?
i flushed it about 4 months ago when my antifreeze plug blew off on the highway. the truck behind me got a nice bath of coolant

i think it's brown because my radiator is corroding, or maybe because my heater barely puts out any heat
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