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Champion 3 row aluminum radiator (review)

129K views 276 replies 51 participants last post by  Jeeper5 
#1 ·
So after 150k miles my stock radiator started leaking and started the search for a new radiator. Now as a background I did have some problems over heating, but only with the worst of the worst situation like doing 3k rpm at 75mph in 105 degree heat with the A/C on. So I figure in order to counter that I'd like an upgraded radiator instead of the stock OEM replacement.

I've looked around on here for hours and have seen someone bought a Silla 2 row aluminum radiator and I liked it but the thing that sold me on the Champion one is that the fill neck is billet welded and not stamped in. Also I saw that it was mentioned on here that 3 row is bad... but I took the chance anyways.

After putting it in and replacing coolant, hoses, and thermostat (stock temp 195) I drove it around for a few hours down the freeway and all around town and the temp stuck around 10degrees cooler according to the stock temp gauge with mechanical fan. So far it seems to be working good.

Along with the radiator, I also got an electric fan and hooked that up yesterday it turns on at 200 and off at 180 and seems to work awesome hoping for better highway milage but I'll find out soon.

(last time I posted pics they were blocked to lower members I apologize for all the links)

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m111/sergeantspud/Radiator/DSCN0507.jpg
The welds are actually pretty nice looking.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m111/sergeantspud/Radiator/DSCN0509.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m111/sergeantspud/Radiator/DSCN0515.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m111/sergeantspud/Radiator/DSCN0506.jpg
Picture of the mounts that I made, they fit quite well.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m111/sergeantspud/Radiator/DSCN0514.jpg
The mounted fan

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m111/sergeantspud/Radiator/DSCN0518.jpg
Another of the mounted fan

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m111/sergeantspud/Radiator/DSCN0519.jpg
The switch that is a "manual off" I will be adding a "manual on" and a LED light to show when the fan is on or off.

And heres a link to an album with the rest of the pictures
Radiator pictures by sergeantspud - Photobucket

Sooo questions comments? :D
 
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#82 ·
This is another one of the flaws with a plastic/aluminum radiator. Many folks think you can 'easily' change the tanks/gaskets whatever with just a screwdriver and some chanel locks. Ever bend an aluminum tab on something and then bend it back? Yeah, 90% of the time it snaps off. While some folks will tell you that you can 'easily repair' a PAL radiator or replace it's tanks, they're in it for your money or haven't worked with rads that much.

Yes, there is a crimp tool that's specifically designed to un-crimp the tabs on a PAL radiator so you can theoretically remove the tank and gasket and TOC/EOC. Yes, the tool does a great job un-crimping the tabs. The issue is when you replace the tank and gasket and cooler, re-crimping the tabs which are attached to the headplate and core, they either snap off completely or don't hold worth a damn. You leak anyway. =/
 
#80 ·
the best temp fix is a raw egg dumped into the radiator saw it on mythbusters. it worked lol

in regards to durability, off road and on road motorsports have been using aluminum radiators for years.

As far as cost. Champion is selling a fully tigged Aluminum radiator, 3 row construction, rated to almost 800hp for $200.00 other advantages of the aluminum is the tube sizes and amount of fins that can be utilized over the Copper/brass
 
#84 ·
the best temp fix is a raw egg dumped into the radiator saw it on mythbusters
Not a good idea, unless you want to cause other problems down the road.
After reading everyones comments, I have decided to go with the factory style. It lasted for 90K miles, so hopefully I will get that out of a new one. By the way, it is still cooling great, just a leak at the crimp that I have been watching for months now. Maybe I can find one with a lifetime warranty. Where is a good place to buy one? It seems that Radiator Barn and Radiator Express are out.
 
#86 ·
When was the last time you flushed/filled it?

Is it the factory antifreeze? You know, the orange specialty stuff(OATS or dex-cool or whatever ... no, I know they're not the same) or is it normal green classic antifreeze that has the brown goo in it?
 
#87 ·
I think I'm about due for a new radiator just got a leak in my CSF All-metal :(. Still debating wether to got with a CSF Aluminum radiator or a Champion Aluminum. I just dont like all that Chrome on the Champions. But looks and sounds like a good radiator.

CSF Inc. - Illustration And Specifications
 
#115 ·
I just dont like all that Chrome on the Champions. But looks and sounds like a good radiator.
That's not chrome, it's aluminum. Most people i know running high HP, high performance vehicles love to see the polish of an aluminum radiator under the hood. :thumbsup:
 
#96 ·
If you could get a aluminum rad for close to the same price why not over kill it??? 200.00 for a fully tigged 3 row alum sounds good to me. i dont care about the bling i just want my jeep to stop running hot in the dunes,desert, and highway. everytime i get into the RPMs my temps shoot up. maintaining 40mph in a sand wash gets my jeep warm. billymac what do you think about adding a zinc probe. I have a friend with a built dakota and he had a ton of leaks in his radiator and are thinking electroysis was the cause.
 
#99 ·
Very good points Dippert! I wasn't trying to sound cynical, but now that I've re-read it a few times, you are absolutely right! I did come across cynical!

I wasn't trying to "sell" the performance radiator part, I was using it as an example, just because I had first-hand knowledge of the part. I handled them every day, sometimes 50-100 of them a day.

I will be the first to admit too, the copper/brass radiators are probably 10-15 lb heavier than the all aluminum, so if front-end weight or just weight in general is a concern, the all aluminum radiator also may be a consideration.

I was speaking from my experiences about the all aluminum rads being upwards of 3-400 bucks. If folks have found some from a reputable company that offers a decent warranty for 200 bucks (which it looks like they have!) then I'd say go for it!

The all alums that I was referring to were made by CSF. I also am going on knowledge of general prices. I have NOT priced out the exact part for a TJ, so there are assumptions there that if an all alum for application A is 200 bucks more than CBR and 300 more than PAL (on average) then I simply assumed it would compare with Jeeps as well. As we all know, sometimes the 'average' doesn't apply! :)

Aluminum DOES provide marginally better heat transmission than copper (but only marginally). I myself have not looked at the exact data, but have been told this by engineers that have, so... I guess as far as that tidbit is concerned, I'm only speaking with hear-say knowledge.

Those radiator screens are absolutely a great idea! I was just adding that one of the benefits of a CBR rad was that it is easily repairable by most do-it-yourselfers... most guys I know either don't know how to TIG or if they do, they don't have the equipment readily available to do it. Further, I don't know first-hand of anyone that carries a TIG with them on the trail. A pocket-torch and a spool of pipe-solder takes up very little space in a toolbox. Thassall I was sayin there :)

And for the gent that posted right after you, seargentspud:

PAL= Plastic-Aluminum. Plastic tanks and an aluminum core. Not repairable (except for some situations where JBWeld will fix a crack in a tank temporarily). Tubes typically helled to header plate with epoxy.

CBR = Copper/Brass. Full copper core (tubes and fins) and brass tanks, helled together with solder. No epoxy.

CSF = Constant Source of Frustration, Cant Seem to Fit, there are others. Often the CSF PAL radiators wouldn't have the mounting pins or bracket bolt holes in the right spot or would have occasional leak issues. Otherwise, CSF is a brand of radiator, just like Nissen, Bher, Griffin (who also does fuel tanks) and others.

Ultimately, my argument/counter-point was that in MY experiences, QUALITY all aluminum radiators are SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than their CBR/PAL counterparts and was suggesting a potentially unknown alternative that the OP or others may not have considered. Just trying to get the info out there that there's other options in case someone else wasn't aware.

:thumbsup:
 
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#101 ·
So did anyone actually buy the Champion Cooling Systems radiator? How'd it work out?

RADIATOR 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 WRANGLER : eBay Motors (item 190371254186 end time Feb-16-10 13:35:57 PST)

I'm in the same situation with that crappy oem pal radiator spewing rad juice all over my truck from a gaping crack in the craptacular plastic top.

Trying to decide between the cbr from performance or the aluminum Champion. For basically the same price, around $220. The alu looks like a steal for the price, compared to all of the ones at Quadratec for $5-600, seems to be the same quality and features. The guy has excellent feedback, but... how can it be the same for 1/2 the price. Looking to see if there's a catch?

Anyone have real experience with this beast?

I need to decide ASAP so I can get back on, errr, I mean, "off" the road.
 
#102 ·
I'm interested to hear how things worked out too!

Usually, when something looks 2G2BT, it usually is. Then again (and I imagine I'm probably going to get flames for this, but...) Smittybilt has put out quite a few aftermarket Jeep parts that are 1/2-ish the price of the USA made name-brands (winches, bumpers, armor, ect.) and most of their stuff is decent. While it's not top of the line by any means, for us weekend warrior types it's perfect.

I'm still wary of major components that my vehicle requires to run... I've got smittybilt stuff on my rig... but I just put a new battery in and I got a diehard platinum after about 3 weeks of research and 190 bucks. Why? If my battery pops when I'm out in the middle of nowhere... I'm getting towed home or I'm walking: I don't carry a spare battery.

If my bumper falls off or my winch quits, there's contingencies; pick it up and toss it in the back or get out the shovel and axe and start digging. (Gotta love the Maine woods! So many great tools growing all over the place! lol)
 
#103 ·
Just had a look at the part and I wanted to add something for the folks that might not be in the know...

If you've got a manual transmission, you still use the same radiator. Just put some plugs in the TOC (Transmission Oil Cooler) lines. That will keep gunk out of the cooler and help keep it from rotting out. You can really put anything in there but probably RTV or high temp silicone would work just fine. Sometimes they come with caps on them from the factory. Just pull the caps off, smear some sealant on the nipple end and put the caps back on to seal it up good.

If you're feeling really brave, you can leave it open, it won't hurt anything short term, but know that water and crud CAN and will get in there and could rot out the TOC inside after a year or two. I have known mechanics to leave them unplugged and nothing bad happens... I just personally think it's more "clean" of a job to plug the lines up. ;)
 
#106 ·
Yeah, I have some Smittybilt gear on my rig as well. I have their Safari rack to support my wilderness rack, it was rated for 300 lbs but would sway 8 inches back and forth when I had 140 load up there. They had to create and fabricate additional brackets to make it work right. Then the oem bumper wouldn't fit, so they gave me a new Smitty bumper. Out of the box it was rusted and had the wrong side bars, and was missing the correct bolts. In the end it's a good rack, but it was a nightmare to correct everything At least the Smitty guys (Matt and Sean) took care of the problems.

Their winches look like a great deal, but I'm afraid they wouldn't save me when I needed it. And I doubt I could get the Smitty customer service to drive into Death Valley and help dig me out... I do believe that should be the requirement for ANY winch company whose product fails.
 
#114 ·
I've been running a champion for a few weeks with no issue. I am VERY happy with the quality, after running a GEN I leaking novak for 3 years.

several other guys in this thread stated they are also running the champion.
 
#117 ·
Have fun with that TJds. I spent all day replacing mine. I also replaced the thermostat and some hoses as well as a big flush.

I learned something. NEVER use radiator sealers. I used a Prestone sealer to get me home the other night after the plastic tank cracked. It did nothing to stop the leak but gummed up everything else in the process. It plugged up the old radiator core and I found it everywhere I looked, in hoses and engine cavities.

Yeah Greg, I saw some folks had gotten the Champions, I was hoping to hear back on some long-term feedback. I think I'll be ok with the CBR though. I just don't ever want anything plastic again. Thanks for the link billymac. I couldn't find one anywhere in LA. They shipped it out next day for free. Good price compared to PAL.
 
#120 ·
Performance will ship for free if you buy any of their stuff over the phone and pay with a credit card in the same call. :) Do a Google search or just look up your local one off their website. The guys in Denver are cool as hell and I'm pretty-much extended family with the branch manager of the Lutherville, MD store (near Baltimore). All of us used to work together in the Denver shop and became pretty good friends in the process.


Off Topic:
One of the phone reps is a hard-core punk-rocker that's produced a few CD's with his band. I guess they came in 18th out of several hundred bands in Denver's battle of the bands here a couple years back. Think they've since changed their style a little and their name... maybe a few members... Whatever the case, he's pretty much built his own studio at his house. AND he drives a Jeep ;)
 
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