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Unread 07-07-2011, 10:23 PM   #256
Knuckelhead
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
FWIW, Finding an affordable aluminum radiator thats better than stock is proving to be a challenge.
You know the one I put in and it wasn't cheap.

Cool the tranny and best of luck to you...

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Unread 07-07-2011, 10:33 PM   #257
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You know the one I put in and it wasn't cheap.

Cool the tranny and best of luck to you...
Thanks What radiator are you using? I don't remember, and I can't read the brand name on that little picture of yours. Low res pic + big arse monitor I'm liking the looks of this Champion...but some of the reviews are hit or miss.

tranny has a cooler, and i did switch the lines so the inlet is on the bottom....
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Unread 07-08-2011, 09:35 AM   #258
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Novak...
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Unread 07-08-2011, 10:24 AM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04

alrightly...can't say I like 230°. If it would stay at 220° I wouldn't be as bothered as I am, but it won't. If I don't change something (pull over, turn off A/C, turn on heater), it'll keep climbing till it hits 250-260° and a CEL is tripped. That tells me something ain't keeping up with the cooling needs. Does yours stay at 220° or 230°, or does it keep climbing over time?
Mine used to climb and the highest temp I ever saw was 236*.

I'm on my phone and I can't see your profile so a few things for you to consider.... do you have a transmission temp gauge if you are running the 4 speed auto? That trans is known to run hot which will affect engine temps. Once I got my 32rh cooled down so that it rarely tops 175*.... my engine temps also dropped.

Have you gone through the ac to check high side and low side pressures and condenser temps? I had my ac serviced after I found the condenser running at 325*.... that is alot of heat to shove into the radiator.

I'm using a Novak radiator myself and have found it to be rather reliable. In addition to multiple after coolers and a bunch of the same Hesco crap you have, I also have my hood vented and my exhaust ceramic coated. My take is that poor aero allows for heat to pool at the firewall and under the tub allowing heat sink into both the motor and trans. Getting rid of that will help lower overall temps over time.

Lastly.... have you been through that fan clutch yet? Make sure it's working and that you hear it kick in.

220* on these things is probably alot more normal than most people think. It took alot of IR temp gun work and my scanguage to figure out that it is a pretty common occurrence.
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Unread 07-08-2011, 11:09 AM   #260
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Originally Posted by Robert J. yates View Post
Mine used to climb and the highest temp I ever saw was 236*.

I'm on my phone and I can't see your profile so a few things for you to consider.... do you have a transmission temp gauge if you are running the 4 speed auto? That trans is known to run hot which will affect engine temps. Once I got my 32rh cooled down so that it rarely tops 175*.... my engine temps also dropped.

Have you gone through the ac to check high side and low side pressures and condenser temps? I had my ac serviced after I found the condenser running at 325*.... that is alot of heat to shove into the radiator.

I'm using a Novak radiator myself and have found it to be rather reliable. In addition to multiple after coolers and a bunch of the same Hesco crap you have, I also have my hood vented and my exhaust ceramic coated. My take is that poor aero allows for heat to pool at the firewall and under the tub allowing heat sink into both the motor and trans. Getting rid of that will help lower overall temps over time.

Lastly.... have you been through that fan clutch yet? Make sure it's working and that you hear it kick in.

220* on these things is probably alot more normal than most people think. It took alot of IR temp gun work and my scanguage to figure out that it is a pretty common occurrence.
yup, i've got a transmission temp gauge & cooler - B&M with sensor clamped to the hot side line at the outlet of the tranny, so far its been pretty accurate vs my IR temp readings on the pan & trans housing. My tranny temps have been staying below maybe 180°-190°ish since installing the cooler, no matter what the engine is doing. It usually runs between around 120° to 140° as long as I'm not climbing a mountain in 2nd. In winter it barely budges off 120°. The sensor is wrapped with header wrap to reduce heat soak from the cats.

I tried to use my IR temp gun to get A/C condensor readings but it wasn't working too well. Pretty sure the hot underhood air & radiator were throwing off the readings. My cheapo IR temp gun doesn't seem to be good at seperating differnet temps when they're so close together and surrounded by hot air. How did you do your readings? Where did you point the gun?

I've got Grand Prix GTP hood vents waiting for install - based on this write up. I know this will greatly reduce the underhood temps, but I can't bring myself to cut holes in the hood yet. I'd rather have it done professionally by a body shop and have the vents paint matched. I've also got a fully wrapped header I can install, but keep in mind I've got two cats running at 600°+ just inches below the intake manifold. And the tranny lines literally run less than 1/4" from the cats, and I actually found one line touching one cat. I wrapped the tranny lines closest to the cats with header wrap.

I agree 220° is more common then people think, especially after seeing how inaccurate the stock gauge is compared to the Scangauge II. For my LJ, if the needle is pointed slightly past 210° it can mean real temps anywhere between 215° to 240°.

I think I'll try replacing the fan clutch next.
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Unread 07-08-2011, 12:04 PM   #261
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I found I had to spray certain parts with flat black paint for the IR gun to give anything of value.

What are your trans temps when climbing? You may need an auxiliary fan driven cooler to complement your current set up... heat soak over time is a huge problem IMO so having the fan cooler engage say at 185* would be helpful on this long climbs. That is typically how mine works.

Get a thin disk blade on your angle grinder (I used my air grinder as it's easier for me to control because is smaller) measure 3 times, use good 3M painters tape and have at your hood.... that is how I did mine LoL.
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Unread 07-08-2011, 03:30 PM   #262
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I found the best way to cut the hood is with a jig saw and a fine metal blade. When I use cut off discs the paint would chip a bit, making it more to paint after cutting. Don't forget the painter's tape, and check underneath before cutting.
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Unread 07-09-2011, 09:47 AM   #263
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I found the best way to cut the hood is with a jig saw and a fine metal blade. Don't forget the painter's tape, and check underneath before cutting.
X2. That's how I cut my hood for my vents and it turned out really good.
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Unread 07-09-2011, 11:12 AM   #264
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out of the 3 cut outs i have the gen right cutout above the radiator made the most difference for my under hood temps. also the hardest one to cut lol
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Unread 07-09-2011, 11:21 AM   #265
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Originally Posted by Robert J. yates View Post
What are your trans temps when climbing? You may need an auxiliary fan driven cooler to complement your current set up... heat soak over time is a huge problem IMO so having the fan cooler engage say at 185* would be helpful on this long climbs. That is typically how mine works.
my tranny temps stay around 160° driving 75mph on the highway in fairly demanding conditions (I-25 )...where I'm using 75%+ throttle. Around town they're staying under 160°. Climbing the mountains tranny temps are halfway between 160 and 220° on the gauge, so my guess is 180-190°...and thats when my engine is seeing 225°+. so i don't think tranny temps are much of an issue.

btw, with my hood closed the fan is sucking air nicely....i can feel it. how would I tell if the fan clutch is bad? when I turn the fan by hand, it moves with some resistance, but not stiff and not free-wheeling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert J. yates View Post

Get a thin disk blade on your angle grinder (I used my air grinder as it's easier for me to control because is smaller) measure 3 times, use good 3M painters tape and have at your hood.... that is how I did mine LoL.
yup got all that...eeeek!!! pretty apprehensive about taking a GRINDER to my HOOD.

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I found the best way to cut the hood is with a jig saw and a fine metal blade. When I use cut off discs the paint would chip a bit, making it more to paint after cutting. Don't forget the painter's tape, and check underneath before cutting.
Good to know.... Glad I bought a nice Dewalt jig saw on craigslist a few weeks back. I'll have to think about it a good bit before cutting holes in my hood tho.

hmm...new idea...I wonder if cutting some 1" or 2" holes in to the cowl would help exhaust air....
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Unread 07-09-2011, 05:15 PM   #266
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hmm...new idea...I wonder if cutting some 1" or 2" holes in to the cowl would help exhaust air....
Bad idea, you don't want engine fumes in your cabin air.

Just install the GTP vents and be done with it.

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Unread 07-10-2011, 09:57 AM   #267
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btw, with my hood closed the fan is sucking air nicely....i can feel it. how would I tell if the fan clutch is bad? when I turn the fan by hand, it moves with some resistance, but not stiff and not free-wheeling.
Throw a shop rag against the grill.... at idle, it should not drop down but rather the suction from the fan should hold it there.
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Unread 08-25-2011, 09:24 AM   #268
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Has anyone used the Champion in the CJ5? I have been seeing that all the new replacement radiators for the CJ5's have the filler in the middle and mine is on the drivers side. Any guidance on a replacement for CJ5 would be great. Thanks
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