[JustClimbIt]

Smoked the clutch in my 00 TJ this weekend doing some winter/deep snow wheeling. Now for the replacement...CF I or CF II?? I'v read the specs on both but just looking for opinions on them. TJ is a DD but sees a decent amount of wheeling, not a whole lot in the winter but when it does its usually 4LO, 3rd gear, on the stupid pedal pushing snow just to make headway.

CF I = "30% more holding power then stock, superior stock replacement with stock pedal feel"

CF II = "60% more holding power but yields much stiffer pedal"

[Slithering_Joe]

Coming from a Mustang background, I and many others would never put a Centerforce clutch in. I'm a big fan of OE parts. But, when I had my transmission rebuilt in July 2006 the guy doing the rebuild swore up and down that the Zoom clutch was much better than what originally came in the Jeep. So far so good.

[DaOne]

Originally Posted by Slithering_Joe

I and many others would never put a Centerforce clutch in.

x eleventy billion. I would never waste my money on the CF clutch. The OE clutch is more than adequate and can last many many miles.

http://www.dialaclutch.com/dac-demo/search.asp

[TheBoogieman]

A lot of people go with the Luk clutch.
http://www.dialaclutch.com/dac-demo/dosearch.asp

[lynn]

The CF I clutch is good for Jeeps, holds a bit better than stock in low-rpm use.
The CF II and CF Dual Friction are designed for better hold in high RPM applications... a waste of $$$ for Jeeps.
I put a CF I in my old '71 CJ5 back in '95, and it held up well through alot of deep mud wheelin... it's still working fine for the guy that bought the rig.

[RnEmOvr]

Originally Posted by Theboogieman

A lot of people go with the Luk clutch.
http://www.dialaclutch.com/dac-demo/dosearch.asp

luk is who makes the OEM clutch, most guys get over 100k miles out of the OEM clutch even with 35s and a 4.0

[Jerry Bransford]

I will side with those recommending against the overpriced Centerforce clutches. They're more expensive than they should be and there's no benefit to them where a Jeep is concerned.

The OE clutch is actually a VERY good clutch, and VERY heavy duty as well. I got 167,000 miles out of mine and it got smoked a number of times. The below photo shows one of those times, which was probably 50,000 miles before I finally changed it earlier this year. So if it smoked, don't change it just because of that unless it is also now slipping.

And the reason I chose to stay with the Luk clutch is simple. If it could last 167,000 miles with plenty of rockcrawling under its belt, I'm not switching to something else. And get this... when I got it out, I was surprised it was still in very good condition with plenty of life left on it. It was working fine when I swap it, I swapped it purely out of precaution because of a major/difficult rockcrawling trip that was coming up.

I personally would (and did) go with another OE clutch which is made by Luk. They're available in kit form for only $130-140 or so from www.dialaclutch.com/ which is a very good price. The kit contains a new pilot bearing, throwout bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk, and pilot shaft. Don't be tempted by the "Gold" version of the Luk clutch as it is meant more for truck usage and it will make more noise than you will like. The standard Luk replacement clutch kit is what you want.

Again, I would not use a Centerforce clutch.

That smoke you see under my Jeep is from the clutch. I drove it another 50K miles after that trip on the same clutch... so smoke from the clutch doesn't necessarily mean the clutch is toast.

[Giviner]

I'll vouch for the Luk clutch as well. Excellent product.

As an addition to what Jerry said. The Luk clutch is actually a slight improvement over the stock clutch. The width of the pressure plate is greater thus increasing the surface contact area with the flywheel.

[dz1087]

I smoked the clutch bad in my 'yota. Never had any problem with it after 60K+. Just go with OEM/Luk the centerforce really just have a stiffer pressure plate anyway, your leg will get tired.

[JustClimbIt]

I probably should have included some more info on what happened...was a high RPM/high wheel spin situation when I ceased forward movement went to push in the clutch and had a very hard pedal, knocked it out of gear and finally realized what happend(clutch decided it didnt want to hold anymore) ofcourse the big plume of burnt clutch emitted from the undercarriage and then let it sit to cool off. after some time we continued on and then drove 250 miles home last night. went to the garage this morning and the whole basement smells like rotten clutch and continues to after every place i go with it(remember its DD). I guess my biggest concern is the difference in pedal engagement and what that may mean as far as the life left in the unit. Thanks alot for the info guys keep it coming. edit* and i do realize a smoking clutch doesnt mean its toast, just wondering how bad this one is

[RnEmOvr]

may also be a busted t/o bearing or even slave cylinder

[JustClimbIt]

there isnt any excessive noise coming from it which should point to the throw out right? the slave is fairly new. i also should note that the pedal isnt hard anymore but the engagement point isnt until the last 2-4" of release

[AlexTJ]

Sorry small thread steal here

Everyone is saying that the OEM clutch is fine and all, but will it be fine with my stroker motor? I still haven't really wheeled it yet since I installed the stroker (afraid of my d35) but on road the clutch has been fine so far (I think).

[Jerry Bransford]

A stroker doesn't add that much power, your OEM clutch will be fine.