Hi all, I'm attempting to replace my valve gasket cover, and I've hit an early stumbling block. I can't get the ccv hoses off (the front one wasn't connected to the air tube...hope that wasn't a problem!).
I see many people break the CCVs when doing this repair; mine look pretty new so I am hoping not to do that. Is there some trick to these hoses? They will spin, but I'm using reasonable force And neither is close to moving in the right direction.
Making progress; I'm now stuck on a wiring harness attached to the alternator. I've had to unplug a few of these things as the wires are routed over the valve cover. I cannot get this last one off....mostly because I can't see it very well. I'm pushing on what I think is a tab, but there also this red clip. Can somebody offer a little removal advice?
If you see a red tab on any of your connectors, it's a lock tab. To disengage the lock tab, usually all that is required is to slide it out until it stops -- you will then be able to press the release tab in the connector and pull the two halves apart. Some lock tabs can be rather difficult to move and may require a common screwdriver to pop them out of the fully closed position.
I've got the cover mostly cleaned up. There was a lot of gunk at the back, and underneath it at the back bolt (on the seal side) the paint has peeled off and the surface is a little rough. Should I do something to it before putting it back together?
I kind of forgot about it when I was spending an hour (or more) trying to get all the grommets off the torque limiters. The last two were fused on. Probably would have been easier with better equipment.
I'm embarrassed to say how long this took me. It was my first auto repair, and my only assistance was this forum. I'm guessing I spent over $200 on tools, but hey: Now I have tools!
I've only started it up in the garage, but the idle is good, oil pressure is good, and no leaks as of now.
I followed the factory service manual diagram. Except it only shows 14 bolts, and I clearly had 15. I think pretty close on the torque, though I could only reach to or 3 of the bolts with the torque wrench.
I am very disappointed. I've called a mobile mechanic.
I'm sure nobody is following this thread, but I went from leaking about 2 drops a day (before the repait) to leaking 2 drops every time I drove the car (after the repair). I had a mechanic look at it; he determined that my valve cover gasket looked good, and that it is leaking from the oil pan. He thinks that stopping the leak from the valve cover forced more oil out the bottom...or maybe he was just trying to make me feel better. After a little convincing, he agreed to do the rear main seal at the same time. 6 quarts of synthetic oil later, and I am pretty close to not leaking. I say pretty close because there's at least a year of old oil on everything from the engine down. I have not seen a drop land after 100 miles of driving (and most of that was up a volcano), but things do look a shiny (and they were dry this morning).
Stopping a valve cover leak isn't going to "force" oil to leak anywhere else. If you have oil and crud built up all over everything, then spray it all well with simple green or whatever your favourite degreaser may be, give it a good scrub, and wash it all off. Now that you have a clean engine, you can more accurately identify if and where you have any remaining leaks.