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Unread 08-02-2010, 09:03 PM   #16
Jetscuh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex View Post
Nope. Find a JK44 and tear it apart...then tear apart a TJ44...then go and dig into your RJ60.

You tell me the differences in all 3 axles... Ring & Pinion, tubes, etc...
I haven't had the opportunity to really get into a JK44. I had a hard time believing this statement when it was said. Then, I remembered why I'd never take my Jeep to said shop. Well, I don't take it to any shop but you get the point.

For the time being, I am still in love with my RJ60.

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Unread 08-02-2010, 09:20 PM   #17
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dana wanted to call the JK 44s dana 55s. mopar said no. that is why they are so much beefier than TJ 44s.
38x15.50x15s on stock rubi axles:
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Unread 08-02-2010, 09:29 PM   #18
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My opinion: yes, they can hold up...but an inexperienced or non-careful driver can break them easily. Hell, if you're abusive you can break stuff with the factory tires still on...much less larger ones. Someone that's careful, picks their lines instead of gassing it up straight ahead, and knows when to back down...sure, I think they'd last quite a while. There'll be wear and tear, but that's going to happen anyway...the rate just depends on the tire size and the driver's habits. With all that said, I'll have alloy shafts in mine before I go to 37's. Probably Superiors in the rear, RCV's in the front.

Remember, big tires aren't just rough on the axles...there are other things in play, too...
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Unread 08-02-2010, 09:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtycruiser View Post
I've heard/read that the JK's are tougher than the TJ's. The tubes are a lot thicker. But the JK's are a lot heavier also.
The front tubes are the same as a TJ only longer and with more rigid control arm mounts on them. Balljoints are about the same, Inner C is stronger in some aspects, weaker in others.

All in all, outside of the the HP Dana 44 center section, it's a ho hum axle.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 05:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
My opinion: yes, they can hold up...but an inexperienced or non-careful driver can break them easily. Hell, if you're abusive you can break stuff with the factory tires still on...much less larger ones. Someone that's careful, picks their lines instead of gassing it up straight ahead, and knows when to back down...sure, I think they'd last quite a while. There'll be wear and tear, but that's going to happen anyway...the rate just depends on the tire size and the driver's habits. With all that said, I'll have alloy shafts in mine before I go to 37's. Probably Superiors in the rear, RCV's in the front.

Remember, big tires aren't just rough on the axles...there are other things in play, too...
Great input! I like what I am hearing. I don't want to be cheep, but axles are not expensive when you compare the cost of 2 new D60's. I will eventually go with the 60's when I install the 4.9 stroker 6. With just so much to do I am trying to pick the right thing first.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 07:22 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
My opinion: yes, they can hold up...but an inexperienced or non-careful driver can break them easily. Hell, if you're abusive you can break stuff with the factory tires still on...much less larger ones. Someone that's careful, picks their lines instead of gassing it up straight ahead, and knows when to back down...sure, I think they'd last quite a while. There'll be wear and tear, but that's going to happen anyway...the rate just depends on the tire size and the driver's habits. With all that said, I'll have alloy shafts in mine before I go to 37's. Probably Superiors in the rear, RCV's in the front.

Remember, big tires aren't just rough on the axles...there are other things in play, too...
Quote:
Originally Posted by larubie View Post
Great input! I like what I am hearing. I don't want to be cheep, but axles are not expensive when you compare the cost of 2 new D60's. I will eventually go with the 60's when I install the 4.9 stroker 6. With just so much to do I am trying to pick the right thing first.
Far be it from me to point out the obvious, but you should really consider taking advice from those that have actually RUN 37's.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 07:33 AM   #22
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I have not run 37s or bigger on a D44, but some guys in our wheeling group have.

One ran 38.5 x 11 Boggers on a Rubi rear axle. He had problems with the rear locker on more than one occasion.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 07:43 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
I have not run 37s or bigger on a D44, but some guys in our wheeling group have.

One ran 38.5 x 11 Boggers on a Rubi rear axle. He had problems with the rear locker on more than one occasion.
The rig I built for Jon came to be precisely for that reason. He ran 37's and grew weary of pouring money into the rear 44. He spent enough trying to keep it alive that he could have bought 2 RJ 60's and put them in.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 07:52 AM   #24
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I think the RJ60 is a bargain.

I don't know if the prices came down recently, or if they have always been priced where they are, but they seem to be a great deal.

After the recent locker and gear replacement in my 8.8, I'm nearing RJ60 price for my total investment.

I'm still well under the pric of 2 of them though, so that makes me feel a little better.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 08:06 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ View Post
I think the RJ60 is a bargain.

I don't know if the prices came down recently, or if they have always been priced where they are, but they seem to be a great deal.

After the recent locker and gear replacement in my 8.8, I'm nearing RJ60 price for my total investment.

I'm still well under the pric of 2 of them though, so that makes me feel a little better.
I was surprised at the final cost of my RJ60. Originally I was shopping around for a Dana 44, then someone told me to look into the RJ60. I think it only ended up being a couple hundred more than I was going to spend on the 44 anyway.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 08:16 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Far be it from me to point out the obvious, but you should really consider taking advice from those that have actually RUN 37's.
That was exactly the basis for my comment. I should amend my statement, though. Alloy shafts in the rear would be a minimum for me. I'd feel better with a 60, but that's a lot of money at once. Since I am as-of-yet unconvinced that I even need 37's - and I probably don't, truth be told - I don't see the reason to upgrade the axle right now. I'd rather beef the D44 I have and run 35's. If I need another two inches of tire, I'll look at Currie's rear 60 and chalk it up to the cost of doing business.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 08:26 AM   #27
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I'd rather beef the D44 I have and run 35's. .
What beef? We run the crap out of them stock and rarely break an axle. I've seen the stock axle run 40 or 50 trails in JV and never care.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 08:38 AM   #28
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What beef? We run the crap out of them stock and rarely break an axle. I've seen the stock axle run 40 or 50 trails in JV and never care.
My bank account thanks you for contributing to the sum of my knowledge.

Am I going to an overkill situation by upgrading to an alloy shaft? What about the limited slip in the rear locker?

This brings up another point...what's the big difference between 35's and 37's, anyway? It's two inches more tire...where did their 44-wrecking reputation come from in the first place? Is this just some sort of rotational mass equation that I haven't figured out, yet?
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Unread 08-03-2010, 08:46 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetscuh View Post
I was surprised at the final cost of my RJ60. Originally I was shopping around for a Dana 44, then someone told me to look into the RJ60. I think it only ended up being a couple hundred more than I was going to spend on the 44 anyway.
That might have been me.

I have pointed that out to a few people lately who are considering a new D44.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 08:57 AM   #30
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My bank account thanks you for contributing to the sum of my knowledge.

Am I going to an overkill situation by upgrading to an alloy shaft? What about the limited slip in the rear locker?

This brings up another point...what's the big difference between 35's and 37's, anyway? It's two inches more tire...where did their 44-wrecking reputation come from in the first place? Is this just some sort of rotational mass equation that I haven't figured out, yet?
Depending on the tire, it's traction. I've measured the footprint of an aired down 37" MT/R and it was 16" long. That's just a lot of grip.
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