Can Dana 44 handle 37's... - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 67 Old 10-05-2011, 04:33 PM
spyder6
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if you're going to replace the axles you should consider putting a rock jock in the rear, its extremely affordable if you consider what you're getting and how much you'll pay to get JK44's and get them up to spec.


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post #62 of 67 Old 10-05-2011, 08:08 PM
jeepl!fe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder6 View Post
if you're going to replace the axles you should consider putting a rock jock in the rear, its extremely affordable if you consider what you're getting and how much you'll pay to get JK44's and get them up to spec.
well i looked into the rock jock and its a good deal i might do but im trying to keep the front and rear axle swap under 4k. i can get front and rear jk axles for 3k but 1k for brackets kind of kills the deal.

would it be more important to have a d60 rear or could i use the stock d44 rear with chromo shafts and a after market d44 front?
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post #63 of 67 Old 10-05-2011, 08:31 PM
dkrajcovic
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i would upgrade the shafts front & rear & also do the Dana 30/44 Bombshell Kit
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-28744.html
& you will be fine with a dana 44 & 37s
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post #64 of 67 Old 10-05-2011, 08:44 PM
jeepl!fe
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Originally Posted by dkrajcovic View Post
i would upgrade the shafts front & rear & also do the Dana 30/44 Bombshell Kit
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-28744.html
& you will be fine with a dana 44 & 37s
hmmm thats a much cheaper alternative, any other views on this?
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post #65 of 67 Old 10-05-2011, 09:12 PM
UTWeezul
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How bout 38s on a good 'ole D30? This guy had a nice D60 rear axle, but had a D30 up front with a sleeved OEM tie rod and regular drag link. Stock brakes too IIRC. Let me tell you he was REALLY soft on the skinny. Never gave it any gas ever. Rightly so as if he did, his front axle would blow up. It was stormy that day and all the rain made the trails twice as slick. That said, he never needed to winch the entire day and out wheeled me (at the time with 33s) and the Rubi JK behind me on 37s. I think the D30 was just temporary until he could get something better (or at least I hope so).



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post #66 of 67 Old 10-05-2011, 10:07 PM
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I'm planning on running 37x12.5-15s iroks on my rubi 44s in the next year or two. I plan on doing 5.13 gears, detroit in the back, aftermarket shafts, and better brakes as well.

Anyone have any detailed info on how to gusset the inner Cs? Mine are already a little tweaked and I have no doubts that 37s would destroy them.

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post #67 of 67 Old 10-05-2011, 10:32 PM
lancetkenyon
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I did not read through this entire thred, but I will give my opinion and personal experience.

I ran 37s on a set of D44s (stock 01 TJ D44 rear with 30 spline Alloy USA shafts, 5.89 gears, spool, T&A cradle diff cover, carrier studs and nuts, and swapped in Rubi D44 front with 30 spline Alloy USA inner/outer/unit bearings with Yukon Super Joints, Detroit, 5.89 gears, Dynatrac diff cover). I ran 37-12.50-15 Maxxis Creepy Crawlers for about 3 years, and then 37-13.50-17 Mickey Thompson Comp Claws for about 3 years.

The front: I had no problems with the front for those 6 years, about 500 trails ranging from 3.5 to 5.0, and it is still running strong in a friends rig with 35s. I only had to change out the Yukon Super Joint caps once. Ball joints held up fine, axle tubes held up too.

The rear: Bit of a different story. It held up with the Maxxis Creepies fine. Once I went to 37" stickies is when I started have issues. In those 3 years, I blew up 2 sets of R&P, and grenaded 2 30 spline Alloy USA shafts. The last time I blew it up, I replaced the parts and built a D60.

So, my opinion would be.....with DOT 37" tires, yes, the D44s can handle them quite well. With 37" stickies, no way for a rear axle, even with 33 or 35 spline chromo shafts. The front should be fine with all the upgrades possible. But you need to go deep with the gears with 37s.

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