Cam bolts to adjust Caster?

JeeperStitch · 12-15-2007, 02:53 PM

So at the risk of sounding stupid...

Just lifted my TJ SE with the Full Traction 3" (more like 4) Eco lift and a friend of mine noticed something when he disconnected the front lower control arms: the bolts were regular bolts, not cam bolts. He thought this was odd, but we didn't worry about it. Now that I've taken in my jeep for an alignment, the tech says that my caster is way negative and I should have a cam bolt on those lower control arms to facilitate the fix. I'm not so sure he knows what he's talking about, but I know even less for sure.

So... do I need these cam bolts, and if so, where do I get them.

Gunrunner72 · 12-15-2007, 02:58 PM

Are the control arms adjustable? I don't remember using cam bolts in the front, but on the rear.

robncar · 12-15-2007, 03:03 PM

Did the tech tell you what the caster is currently at?

JeeperStitch · 12-15-2007, 03:13 PM

Front control arms are the stock fixed ones. Tech said caster was "way negative" didn't give me a number.

robncar · 12-15-2007, 04:05 PM

The cam bolts will not be enough to correct for "way negative". Adjustable upper control arms can be used to set pinion angle. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster. It would be good to know how off it is and go from there. The correct toe setting should help with handling. Did they get the toe set for you?

For a stock 2005, per the FSM, the PREFERRED CASTER = +7.0° (±1.0°)

I know you have a 1999, listed the above for comparison.

azcoyote · 12-15-2007, 04:06 PM

You get them at the dealership. They were about $70 when I bought mine a month ago and also which I did not need... PM me if you want them cheap....

JeeperStitch · 12-15-2007, 04:46 PM

They got the toe set fine. The caster is at 4 and needs to be at 5 so it's -1 (I called the tech and got exacts). can that be fixed with the cam bolt?

chappy84 · 12-15-2007, 05:23 PM

I also have the 3" econo and after much research on here I have decided NOT to go with cam bolts. Cam bolts while fixing the angles will strip or slip if you may, over time and from what I understand you also have to punch some of the control arm mount hole "out" causing grief for future more functional control arms. (good question for Jerry B)
I don't have a lot of money but opted to go with a more long-term permenent fix. I am adding adjustable upper rear control arms($160), adjustable rear track bar ($115), Slip yolk elim ($175) and cv drive shaft($289.00) This way all of the bases are covered and I can enjoy my lift with out worry (priceless in my oppinion)

otisdog · 12-15-2007, 06:06 PM

The lift should not have messed with the caster like he's saying. A stock TJ should be about 7* and when you lift 4" it will move down to the 5-6* range which is fine and does not need to be adjusted - in fact you want it that way.
I am lifted 4" and my caster is at 5.5*. I'd get a second opinion if I were you.
How is it driving? Are the wheels kicking back when you come out of a turn? Any death wobble? If it's not acting up I wouldn't worry about it.
Cam bolts suck as already stated. Adjustable lower CA arms a tad longer than stock will fix the problem if really needed.
Jim

Chris @ GATR · 12-15-2007, 06:15 PM

Most FLCA cam bolts have a 3 degree range of correction.

robncar · 12-15-2007, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chappy84

...Cam bolts while fixing the angles will strip or slip if you may, over time and from what I understand you also have to punch some of the control arm mount hole "out" causing grief for future more functional control arms.

Yes, to use the cam bolts, slots are cut (punched out) where the bolts go through the lower control arm mounts at the axle. If you do the slots, it's kind of a point of no return where to "correct" (remove) the slots later will either require welding on additional material or replacing the mount.

Still, front pinion angle is more important than caster. If the toe is set and you have no adverse handling (bump steer, etc.) I wouldn't worry about caster.

JeeperStitch · 12-15-2007, 07:11 PM

Thanks guys... Ya'll are a big help. I'll drive it around for a few days and see if it is acting the way it should (steering wheel return, no bump steer, and no death wobble) and if it is I'll leave it be and tell the techs from now on that 5* is good for the camber. If it's acting up then I'll get the adjustable control arms. Any recommendations on who has 'em for good prices?

chappy84 · 12-15-2007, 07:15 PM

go to the vendor section and PM the vendor's that claim to have RE products on the cheap. Another cheap way to go is Ebay.....I found adjustable upper control arms for 160 made by pro crap.....um I mean pro comp, still better than cam bolts IMO. adjustables are expensive!!!!! JKS and currie probly make the best short arms IMO but expensive.

Edit: I remember that ther was some lower CA's from an XJ made by rubicon exp. for cheap and about the length you need.....check the suspention "for sale" section.....happy hunting.

MuDD OlllllllO · 12-15-2007, 07:30 PM

I had the same issue and used the Pro-Comp cam bolts. it was only off a couple degrees due to the ft econ lift. Took ten minutes to install and I set it at 7 degrees. Fixed a lot of the wandering.

By the way, make sure you search for FRONT lower cam bolts and don't pay more than $30-35. If you get any higher than that you might s well just get adjustable ca's. Go to Sears and by an angle measurement tool.

Good luck!

vector6 · 12-15-2007, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robncar

Yes, to use the cam bolts, slots are cut (punched out) where the bolts go through the lower control arm mounts at the axle. If you do the slots, it's kind of a point of no return where to "correct" (remove) the slots later will either require welding on additional material or replacing the mount.

thats for the rear cam bolts... not the fronts..

the fronts are already slotted... look at these

the stock bolt at the axle is centered on the washers... the adjustable bolt kit is offset...