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Unread 07-01-2010, 08:35 PM   #1
maddiver
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A/C Need some sage advice

Need some advise on replacing some AC parts.


First, the old babe is 10 years old and the AC ain't working. Spare me the no need for AC stuff. I'm in Florida, I'm old and fat and it's hotter than heck here.

I made the mistake of playing around with the DIY fill stuff a year ago and it hasn't worked right since. Lesson learned - leave the cans in the display case! The last charge (done professionally) has leaked out over the past year and as of yesterday the mechs found there to be no charge at all. Grrr. The only place I KNOW there is no leak is the evap. ('cause that got tested first) We (me and the mechs) suspect a leak near the compressor but can't be for sure 'cause the electronic leak-o-meter had a loose end and wasn't all that accurate. So, I've got a new liquid line with orifice tube to put in. Also got a new accumulator. By the way - Jeep Air dot com ROCKS for prices and shipping speed: www.jeepair.com
I'm considering holding off and just getting a new compressor and a new condensor and simply doing the whole shebang all at once. Remember, it is 10 years old and if I gotta open the system to replace anything, I'm thinking just get it done and replace everything (except for the evap of course - 'cause I am NOT taking that *&^%$ dash off if I don't have to!)

YOUR THOUGHTS? Any advice?

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Unread 07-02-2010, 02:46 AM   #2
asknight
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The dash really isn't that hard to R&R, especially when compared to the accumulator, compressor, and related connections.

However, here's what I would do since replacing the entire A/C system is going to approach 50+% the value of the entire vehicle especially if you're paying shop labor rates. I would go to a reputable A/C tech and have them do a dye/leak test to find out exactly where the leak is occurring. I would wager on it being the various o-rings at each connection in the entire system, and not one specific component. I would then disassemble the system and reseal (replace o-rings) the whole thing if that is the cause and then have it rechecked for leaks before recharging with refrigerant. Otherwise if any specific components are bad, I would replace only those bad components.

R134a works at a much higher pressure and is more corrosive than the older R12 refrigerant resulting in the seals/o-rings having a shorter lifespan than in decades past.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 07:29 AM   #3
zooby
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Like asknight said, have some one recharge it and put dye in it, drive it for a few weeks and have it tested then. Just throwing parts is a big waist of time. The weakest part of an ac system is the front compressor seal. If your system leaked down over a year the leak will be hard to find with an electric leak detector. One thing to keep in mind is, when you do a dye test your adding dye to the oil and using a uv light to trace it. If the system is low on oil the dye doesn't show as well so make sure they add an ounce of oil and you'll be good. Ten years old isn't too bad for a system. Ive been working on ac systems just over 30 years at a dealer. What ive seen is most of the time it was the compressor. Also look very carefully at your condenser. Small rocks tagging the side of one of the tubes while on the freeway would come in sometimes. As for your evaporator, those are not too common and mostly caused by something damaging them.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 08:34 AM   #4
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+3 on the Dye, 134 is cheep fill her up and let it leak, you may find more than 1 leak.

Orface tube and receiver/dryer are two components you will want to change in addition to repairing the leak. You also need to place the system under vacuum for 30+ min before charging it up,
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Unread 07-02-2010, 10:11 AM   #5
maddiver
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Turned out to be both a compressor and a condenser leak. Both are on order.
The only thing not getting replaced at this time is the evap.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 10:41 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by maddiver View Post
Turned out to be both a compressor and a condenser leak. Both are on order.
The only thing not getting replaced at this time is the evap.
Check out JeepAir.com, they have a condenser for $169 free shipping. Super easy swap and save you some money. Be sure they send the O-rings. If not you can p/u at your local auto part store.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 10:43 AM   #7
maddiver
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Yup - you'll notice I mentioned them in the original post.
Got the Compressor, Condenser, liquid line w/orifice tube and accumulator from them for under $500.
This thing SHOULD be as good as new soon as it is put together.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 10:49 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by maddiver View Post
Yup - you'll notice I mentioned them in the original post.
Got the Compressor, Condenser, liquid line w/orifice tube and accumulator from them for under $500.
This thing SHOULD be as good as new soon as it is put together.
Sorry! I get lazy at times. I love cold air. I thougt moving to TN would be cooler. Wrong!
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Unread 07-02-2010, 11:57 AM   #9
maddiver
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So just after I placed my order, I got an email from Jeep Air saying that today and Saturday everything is 20% off. (use the promo code USA2010 when checking out)
Just called them and they're adjusting my total. AWESOME!! So, now with the extra $80 savings I'm gonna go ahead and put the evap in too! This WILL make it a brandy new system!

Anybody looking to install a complete system, they have it for 1099. With the discount that brings it to $879! You CANNOT beat that for a full AC kit!
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Unread 07-02-2010, 05:31 PM   #10
zooby
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Sounds like a good price on the part's. Don't forget to add oil before your done. As a general rule, with out looking up the spec, you probably want to add 2oz. for the compressor, 1oz for the condenser, 2oz for the accumulator, 1-2oz for the leak and age of the system. I think the capacity is around 8-9 oz. It would be a shame to lose a compressor in 3 months because your system was low. All this is assuming the shop didn't add any and the DIY kit you used initially didn't add any to it.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 07:24 PM   #11
wushaw
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5.8 oil & 24oz refrigeriant per Mitchell Manuall.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 07:39 PM   #12
Stu Olson
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And don't forget to evacuate the system before charging it. From what I understand, that should remove any trace of old oil too....so a full oil charge should be in order when you get ready to charge it.
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Unread 07-02-2010, 11:11 PM   #13
asknight
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Originally Posted by maddiver View Post
Anybody looking to install a complete system, they have it for 1099. With the discount that brings it to $879! You CANNOT beat that for a full AC kit!


That is the deal of the decade!
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Unread 07-03-2010, 12:15 AM   #14
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And don't forget to evacuate the system before charging it. From what I understand, that should remove any trace of old oil too....so a full oil charge should be in order when you get ready to charge it.
Not really, you loose about an ounce after a evac, the vacuum lowers the boiling point of the water in the system and removes it, not to much oil gets removed. To remove all the old oil a flush is needed, but he is replacing everything so .....
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Unread 07-03-2010, 02:00 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mousejockey View Post
Not really, you loose about an ounce after a evac, the vacuum lowers the boiling point of the water in the system and removes it, not to much oil gets removed. To remove all the old oil a flush is needed, but he is replacing everything so .....
And if the compressor gets replaced then the oil level needs to be verified there also.
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