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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:05 PM   #16
TheBoogieman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006_Sport View Post
He's right. I thought I'd be content with a 2 inch lift and 31s. I'll be adding a 1.25 inch BL and 33s in the near future
.
My 2nd Jeep I thought a BB and 31" MT's were all I ever wanted.My brother got 33" baja claws and my Jeep looked tiny.Within 6 months I lifted it a little more and got 35's and never looked back.Once you run 35's everything else looks tiny.

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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:07 PM   #17
04_Sahara_Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
My 2nd Jeep I thought a BB and 31" MT's were all I ever wanted.My brother got 33" baja claws and my Jeep looked tiny.Within 6 months I lifted it a little more and got 35's and never looked back.Once you run 35's everything else looks tiny.
or in flatlanders case anything smaller than 40's looks puny
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:13 PM   #18
TheBoogieman
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My LCG Jeep.35's with a 2" BB rear,3" springs up front(to level it)and a 1" BL.
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:15 PM   #19
04_Sahara_Man
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I'v always liked your jeep. why didnt u go with 2" coils in the rear?
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:16 PM   #20
kennyboobear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
You don't have a hand drill? You don't have a hardware store in your town?
You don't have a muffler shop or welding shop in your town?

Thats two ways to fix it that don't involve you doing any welding.

Start reading: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tj...it-fit-738948/


stay away from 4-wheel parts, 4wd and Quadratrash at all times. they're idiots and will screw up your order for months, then charge you for it, and take half the company's profit on that item.



I have my comments here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/un...-build-778715/

While that's all good and well regarding the trackbar, where's the issue of getting a kit that comes with one that very well just may work without having to worry about running all over the place tryna get mounting hardware and having it welded etc. when it's possible I can open the box and throw it on without having any issue at all.

Have heard mixed reviews on all 3 vendors, though I hear far more good than bad. I personally have ordered from 4wd in the past, and since they're right up the road from me, I can always go right into the store to pickup my stuff, which lessens the likelyhood of the order getting screwed up, appreciate the concern though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
My LCG Jeep.35's with a 2" BB rear,3" springs up front(to level it)and a 1" BL.

Looks good, and the added benefit of me highlining + flat fenders up front, along with trimming in the rear will allow me to do exactly what I'm aiming for, being 2.5"

But yea, once you see 35's on a Jeep, everything else really does look small.
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:17 PM   #21
madmilitia
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i'm kinda in the same boat how ever

i'm going with a 4 inch tera flex long arm and plan to get 35's eventually i don't have the cash for that lift and new tires.\

right now i have 31/10.5 big foot's

my concern is i read in here that my stock dana 35's won't be able to push this setup.

is this true will i have to regear my axles to get on 35's?
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04_Sahara_Man View Post
I'v always liked your jeep. why didnt u go with 2" coils in the rear?
I did the BB because back then it was cheap and I thought I would never go bigger than 31's.I added 3" front springs to level it and a 1" BL.Here's the pic with the 31's before getting the 35's.
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:21 PM   #23
04_Sahara_Man
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Haha .....back on topic....
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:24 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmilitia View Post
i'm kinda in the same boat how ever

i'm going with a 4 inch tera flex long arm and plan to get 35's eventually i don't have the cash for that lift and new tires.\

right now i have 31/10.5 big foot's

my concern is i read in here that my stock dana 35's won't be able to push this setup.

is this true will i have to regear my axles to get on 35's?
Everybody has different views.I was told that with 35's and stock 3.73 gears that my 5 speed would feel like I was taking off in 2nd gear and lose 5th gear altogether.When I got them,I was shocked at how well it did.No more shifting into 2nd after 15 feet.It pulled 5th gear great on flat ground at speeds of 85mph+ and had to be downshifted into 4th on hills.I got 20 mpg highway for 3 years also with the lower rpms.My open dif d35 held up for 3 years(I sold it).If you bash nthe crap out of it offroad,the d35 probably won't hold up too long.I listen to anyone.I do my own thing and if it breaks,upgrade it.
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:28 PM   #25
chmo
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One more vote for the OME 2" HD lift.

The big advantage beside the top quality springs are the SHOCKS which have a quite balanced articulation and do not need bump stops (extensions) in the front! (in the back you need at least the standard OME 0.75" bump stop extensions)

So whatever you gain in lift is a plus for your UP and down travel.

So the only still limiting factor for the bump stops is the tire size to be cleared underneath the fenders (where ever they will be after a highline )

X2 @ umlimited04 regarding the front track bar... actually you should read mudb8's thread about it. (see his signature)

Rancho is CERTAINLY not bad, as many like their skinny "bridge" control arms which allow for good tire clearance with rims with more back spacing (16" and 17" rims usually have). Their Springs have a good reputation as well as well as their skinny sway bar end links. Only their (unnecessary) adjustable front track bar is of not as good reputation.
Still ... you have to choose shocks with reasonably small compressed size not to waste your lift gain with bump stops.

I personally am happy that I took OME for my "slow" LCOG build, because I did not have to spend tooo much for unnecessary and questionable parts at the beginning and still have all the flexibility to add the reasonable parts as I SEE and find to be needed. (ok ... MEANWHILE I have adjustable rear uppers and skinny adjustable front lowers ... and a SYE/CV combo ... but stock front TB and a angled rear relocation bracket for the rear TB )
My next step is highline, bigger tires AND regear and traction upgrade ... quite a FAT all in one step

I can completely feel your pain, as I have been through exactly the same
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:31 PM   #26
kennyboobear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
Everybody has different views.I was told that with 35's and stock 3.73 gears that my 5 speed would feel like I was taking off in 2nd gear and lose 5th gear altogether.When I got them,I was shocked at how well it did.No more shifting into 2nd after 15 feet.It pulled 5th gear great on flat ground at speeds of 85mph+ and had to be downshifted into 4th on hills.I got 20 mpg highway for 3 years also with the lower rpms.
Was gonna say, with the 5 spd and 3.73s you realistically should be okay, though I still intend on running 4.56 just for the added umph. I suspect the only two viable reasons for regearing if you have 3.73 and the 5spd is A. you live in Colorado or similar terrain and/or wheel it consistently or B. You drive it like it's stolen. My reasoning is because I intend on wheeling just about every weekend, and also desire to hit a lot of trails between Colorado and the West coast.
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[QUOTE=GraKee99;10375372]Driving on snow is a lot like sex, it's a lot of fun but if you don't pay attention, you can really mess up someone's rear end.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Gene Mooneyham]Not to burst your bubble, but California gets worse every year. Liberals, and illegals have ruined any chance California had to get turned around, it's a sinking ship.[/QUOTE]

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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:33 PM   #27
madmilitia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
Everybody has different views.I was told that with 35's and stock 3.73 gears that my 5 speed would feel like I was taking off in 2nd gear and lose 5th gear altogether.When I got them,I was shocked at how well it did.No more shifting into 2nd after 15 feet.It pulled 5th gear great on flat ground at speeds of 85mph+ and had to be downshifted into 4th on hills.I got 20 mpg highway for 3 years also with the lower rpms.My open dif d35 held up for 3 years(I sold it).If you bash nthe crap out of it offroad,the d35 probably won't hold up too long.I listen to anyone.I do my own thing and if it breaks,upgrade it.
i have a stupid automatic, but i wouldn't think it would be that much differant.

i wouldn't say i beat the crap out of it when im off road, i'm more of a crawler but i do take jeep trails <<not just small gravel roads through the MNTS.>>
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:38 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyboobear View Post
While that's all good and well regarding the trackbar, where's the issue of getting a kit that comes with one that very well just may work without having to worry about running all over the place tryna get mounting hardware and having it welded etc. when it's possible I can open the box and throw it on without having any issue at all.
as i stated and pointed you to the thread...you can get a track bar that will bolt right on (Currie TJS from Savvy Offroad). You just need 2" bumpstop extensions in the front so it doesn't hit the diff cover. and on the 2.5" lift, that eliminates all the uptravel you just gained with the lift. or you can retain the stock track bar and utilize the full 8" of travel from the 2.5" lift shocks.
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:42 PM   #29
kennyboobear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
One more vote for the OME 2" HD lift.

The big advantage beside the top quality springs are the SHOCKS which have a quite balanced articulation and do not need bump stops in the front! (in the back you need at least the standard 0.75" bump stops)

So whatever you gain in lift is a plus for your UP and down travel.

So the only still limiting factor for the bump stops is the tire size to be cleared underneath the fenders (where ever they will be after a highline )

X2 @ umlimited04 regarding the front track bar... actually you should read mudb8's thread about it. (see his signature)

Rancho is CERTAINLY not bad, as many like their skinny "bridge" control arms which allow for good tire clearance with rims with more back spacing (16" and 17" rims usually have). Their Springs have a good reputation as well as well as their skinny sway bar end links. Only their (unnecessary) adjustable front track bar is of not as good reputation.
Still ... you have to choose shocks with reasonably small compressed size not to waste your lift gain with bump stops.

I personally am happy that I took OME for my "slow" LCOG build, because I did not have to spend tooo much for unnecessary and questionable parts at the beginning and still have all the flexibility to add the reasonable parts as I SEE and find to be needed. (ok ... I have adjustable rear uppers and skinny adjustable front lowers ... and a SYE/CV combo ... but stock front TB and a angled rear relocation bracket for the rear TB )
My next step is highline, bigger tires AND regear and traction upgrade ... quite a FAT all in one step

I can completely feel your pain, as I have been through exactly the same
Now there's the kind of reply I've been looking for haha. Very helpful and informative, that out of the way I feel as though I'm swaying more in the direction of the OME lift due to the very reasons you posted above, being the far superior shocks/springs. That being the case, too, I can just as soon pair the purchase together with an SYE/SV and still fall short of the 1400ish price tag I'm looking at for completing the ranching kit. Much as I like the rancho kit, just doesn't seem entirely worth the huge gap in cost which is why I posted in the first place, though with the current 500$ rebate promo.... it's really hard to say no to.

As far as Mudb8's thread goes, read it about 2 weeks ago, so at the moment I'm not all that interested in purchasing one seperately as it's likely it will hit, though I figure if the kit comes with one, it's likely been designed to work with the kit and not hit. Course it very well could anyways, meh, oh well.

Anyhow, am leaning more towards the OME now, thanks again, any other takers?
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[QUOTE=GraKee99;10375372]Driving on snow is a lot like sex, it's a lot of fun but if you don't pay attention, you can really mess up someone's rear end.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Gene Mooneyham]Not to burst your bubble, but California gets worse every year. Liberals, and illegals have ruined any chance California had to get turned around, it's a sinking ship.[/QUOTE]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/finally-2000-tj-slow-build-very-slow-947018/"]My 2000 Silverstone TJ Build[/URL]
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Unread 07-28-2010, 12:44 PM   #30
kennyboobear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
as i stated and pointed you to the thread...you can get a track bar that will bolt right on (Currie TJS from Savvy Offroad). You just need 2" bumpstop extensions in the front so it doesn't hit the diff cover. and on the 2.5" lift, that eliminates all the uptravel you just gained with the lift. or you can retain the stock track bar and utilize the full 8" of travel from the 2.5" lift shocks.
Never said I wasn't interested in keeping the factory trackbar, merely stated if the kit comes with one that works without having to modify the suspension setup etc. why wouldn't I use it? Once again we're only in speculation mode here, so don't take it so literally lol
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[QUOTE=GraKee99;10375372]Driving on snow is a lot like sex, it's a lot of fun but if you don't pay attention, you can really mess up someone's rear end.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Gene Mooneyham]Not to burst your bubble, but California gets worse every year. Liberals, and illegals have ruined any chance California had to get turned around, it's a sinking ship.[/QUOTE]

[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/finally-2000-tj-slow-build-very-slow-947018/"]My 2000 Silverstone TJ Build[/URL]
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