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Unread 04-25-2010, 01:50 AM   #61
TheDragonfly
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Mudb8 will you help me out. Im trying to replace all my coils, shocks, and bumpstops soon. Id like to have 33" tires with around 3"-3.5" lift and a 1.25" bl and mml. I have the jks trac bar and solid diff covers. So Im pondering, 3" AEV Coils, OME n67L Front, OME n67 rears. 2" Bumpstops? Then after the Adj CAs, TT, SYE & CV, relocate the rear shock mounts and replace with n66L shocks.

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Unread 04-25-2010, 07:15 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDragonfly View Post
Mudb8 will you help me out. Im trying to replace all my coils, shocks, and bumpstops soon. Id like to have 33" tires with around 3"-3.5" lift and a 1.25" bl and mml. I have the jks trac bar and solid diff covers. So Im pondering, 3" AEV Coils, OME n67L Front, OME n67 rears. 2" Bumpstops? Then after the Adj CAs, TT, SYE & CV, relocate the rear shock mounts and replace with n66L shocks.
i'm not mudb8, but thats the setup this guy is running - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/in...-lift-1004379/

he got it from Rob's Off-road (where mudb8 works).
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Unread 04-26-2010, 09:06 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDragonfly View Post
Mudb8 will you help me out. Im trying to replace all my coils, shocks, and bumpstops soon. Id like to have 33" tires with around 3"-3.5" lift and a 1.25" bl and mml. I have the jks trac bar and solid diff covers. So Im pondering, 3" AEV Coils, OME n67L Front, OME n67 rears. 2" Bumpstops? Then after the Adj CAs, TT, SYE & CV, relocate the rear shock mounts and replace with n66L shocks.
The jks front track bar won't like the solid diff cover without having closer to 3" bumpstop extensions up front, you'll simply need to check, while the n66L shocks only need 2". I removed springs and tested JKS, currie, RE, and a bunch of other track bars to come up with that statement. The "every TJ is different notion Is B.S. in this area. Now, even tho the jks will be scrubbing the cover, it doesn't mean it's going to fail and bust, the JJ on the end of it a complete different story than the other track bars that use a theaded in 22mm TRE like rusty's or a Heim joint like one of RE's . I do not like things scrubbing/hitting.

This JKS was not only hitting the side of the ARB cover, it also has a nice dent from the fill plug. the reason for showing the ARB is it's almost the same shape as the solid without the dumb landing for ARB's logo.




The rear will need at least 1.25" bumpstop extensions with the n67 shocks, any less than that, the 2.5" rear track bar extension/relocation can/will hit the tub at full compresion. as shown, you can see the wear spot where it has been hitting well before the OME supplied 3/4" bumpstop extension compressed the rubber bumper..



what I did here, is made a new track bar tower 1" taller than stock and drilled the hole to center the axle using a stock rear track bar. the shock relocation is matched up with 3/4" bumptop extension...




after you relocate the rear lower shock mounts out behind the lower ca's and slightly down to balance the travel, the N67L shocks will fit next to perfect with 2" bumpstop extensions.

when I put the AEV/currie hybrid together I used RE 2" rear stops with the intention of them being cut down to the amount needed to match the shocks/tires.

I know I got a little off topic there but bumstops are a VERY important part of suspension for more reasons than shocks and tire size..
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Unread 04-26-2010, 10:38 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post

The jks front track bar won't like the solid diff cover without having closer to 3" bumpstop extensions up front, you'll simply need to check, while the n66L shocks only need 2". I removed springs and tested JKS, currie, RE, and a bunch of other track bars to come up with that statement. The "every TJ is different notion Is B.S. in this area. Now, even tho the jks will be scrubbing the cover, it doesn't mean it's going to fail and bust, the JJ on the end of it a complete different story than the other track bars that use a theaded in 22mm TRE like rusty's or a Heim joint like one of RE's . I do not like things scrubbing/hitting.

This JKS was not only hitting the side of the ARB cover, it also has a nice dent from the fill plug. the reason for showing the ARB is it's almost the same shape as the solid without the dumb landing for ARB's logo.




The rear will need at least 1.25" bumpstop extensions with the n67 shocks, any less than that, the 2.5" rear track bar extension/relocation can/will hit the tub at full compresion. as shown, you can see the wear spot where it has been hitting well before the OME supplied 3/4" bumpstop extension compressed the rubber bumper..



what I did here, is made a new track bar tower 1" taller than stock and drilled the hole to center the axle using a stock rear track bar. the shock relocation is matched up with 3/4" bumptop extension...




after you relocate the rear lower shock mounts out behind the lower ca's and slightly down to balance the travel, the N67L shocks will fit next to perfect with 2" bumpstop extensions.

when I put the AEV/currie hybrid together I used RE 2" rear stops with the intention of them being cut down to the amount needed to match the shocks/tires.

I know I got a little off topic there but bumstops are a VERY important part of suspension for more reasons than shocks and tire size..
Not off topic, very helpful.

My main bump stop priority is keeping the shocks in proper shape. Ill check how hard the jks is hitting the cover after the new install and give you my report.
I know that right now the bar is hitting 3" from the JJ, into the top right gusset of the cover. Thats with approx 3.75" lift and no added bumpstops (4" coils sagging to 3" from heavy bumper and .75 spacer). The damage appears to be very minimum though. Its only scratched off some powder coat on both less than a dime. If both the trac bar and diff cover are strong enough to take the hits without failing I might not obsess too much over scratched paint and a clunk now and then.

My other concern was am I going to unseating to springs too much with the long shocks. Should I use the currie stops with the coil retainers, or the jks for the easy adjustability?

Clarify here: Your saying that with 1.25" bumpstops in back I wont have any problems with the rear trac bar relocation, but I could use 3/4" in the back if I wanted to make modifications to the trac bar bracket?
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Unread 04-27-2010, 10:32 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDragonfly View Post
Not off topic, very helpful.

My main bump stop priority is keeping the shocks in proper shape. Ill check how hard the jks is hitting the cover after the new install and give you my report.
I know that right now the bar is hitting 3" from the JJ, into the top right gusset of the cover. Thats with approx 3.75" lift and no added bumpstops (4" coils sagging to 3" from heavy bumper and .75 spacer). The damage appears to be very minimum though. Its only scratched off some powder coat on both less than a dime. If both the trac bar and diff cover are strong enough to take the hits without failing I might not obsess too much over scratched paint and a clunk now and then.

My other concern was am I going to unseating to springs too much with the long shocks. Should I use the currie stops with the coil retainers, or the jks for the easy adjustability?

Clarify here: Your saying that with 1.25" bumpstops in back I wont have any problems with the rear trac bar relocation, but I could use 3/4" in the back if I wanted to make modifications to the trac bar bracket?
I prefer the currie bumpstops, but they are spendy compared to a 20$ RE stop and a homemade coil lock.

The rear springs will not unseat with the n67L shocks after shock mount relocation to balance the travel. the fronts will unseat around 1.5" up front with n66L shocks unless you have coil spacers in there for leveling.

1.25" bumpstop extension is just enough to prevent the track bar relocation from hitting the tub, and yes you can shorten the stops with a modified mount and shock relocation as long as you have room left for the tires to stuff. I do not recomend using an adjustable track bar on the stock mount without bracing and modification...



shocks longer than stock let the suspension droop far enough to bind up the rear track bar and bracket, which will rip the bracket off the axle. I cut, box and brace them to make them survive...

Rubicon express... you'll notice the weld on the side of bracket as well if you look close, it was torn off.


JKS...
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HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Unread 04-28-2010, 09:20 AM   #66
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mudb8,
Did you receive my PM?

Thanks, David M
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Unread 05-05-2010, 08:45 PM   #67
jermeyg
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Thought I would ask

Sorry for bringing this back but I have a few bumstop related questions and thoughts.

I am running a 4" RC LA with OME long travel shocks. What I have found is that in the front axle under full compression with the springs out I bottom out the front shocks with a measurement of about 3" for bumpstop. Does this seem right to everyone?
On the back I am at roughly 4" of bumpstop to prevent the shocks from bottoming out. I have the shock mounts extended on the back to help although I do notice some rubbing on the spring bucket. I don't have the pinion fully dialed in (its close) so I am hoping that help a little bit with the rubbing.

Experts let me hear your thoughts and thanks in advance!
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Unread 05-05-2010, 09:37 PM   #68
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are you missing the rubber bumpstop cups.... I see loads of them come in with the bolt in it and no cups or stops.

The front should need 2" at the point the shocks bottom out. Every one I've ever measured installed has needed 2" Including the one I did today..
The rear SS shock extension brackets angle the mount upward, which causes you to need excessive rear bumpstop length..



__________________
I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Unread 05-05-2010, 10:18 PM   #69
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ok, i have to ask to be sure because Bilsteins are not cheap and i dont wanna ruin them.

2" BB w/ 32" tires and Bilstien 5100's = 1" bump stop

2" BB w/ 32" tires, 1"BL and Bilstien 5100's = 2" bump stop

correct?
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Unread 05-05-2010, 10:31 PM   #70
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ok, i have to ask to be sure because Bilsteins are not cheap and i dont wanna ruin them.

2" BB w/ 32" tires and Bilstien 5100's = 1" bump stop

2" BB w/ 32" tires, 1"BL and Bilstien 5100's = 2" bump stop

correct?
depends on the length of the bilstiens....

the 6241's (4" front lift shocks) are 15.8" collapsed and need a minimum of 2.25" bumpstop extension up front reguardless of what size tire you have or how high the lift is.
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Unread 05-05-2010, 10:59 PM   #71
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Sorry, i forgot to add they are 3" lift shocks by Bilstien

Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
depends on the length of the bilstiens....

the 6241's (4" front lift shocks) are 15.8" collapsed and need a minimum of 2.25" bumpstop extension up front reguardless of what size tire you have or how high the lift is.
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Unread 05-05-2010, 11:16 PM   #72
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Sorry, i forgot to add they are 3" lift shocks by Bilstien
part #'s?..........
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

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Unread 05-06-2010, 06:58 AM   #73
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Front - F4-BE5-2731-H5

Rear - F4-BE5-2732-H5

Thanks for taking the time to help me out.
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Unread 05-06-2010, 09:53 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
are you missing the rubber bumpstop cups.... I see loads of them come in with the bolt in it and no cups or stops.

The front should need 2" at the point the shocks bottom out. Every one I've ever measured installed has needed 2" Including the one I did today..
The rear SS shock extension brackets angle the mount upward, which causes you to need excessive rear bumpstop length..



mudb8, you are right I am missing the rubber bumstop and cups. The PO installed the trailmaster extended bumpstop with screws on up top. Would you think that is why I need 3" up front? That is what I measured from top of spring bucket to where the bumstop screws in. For the rear my RC shock extenders are no angled like those you show in the picture. I am guessing that is why I have excessive bumpstop in the rear (4.5") Would you recommend SS angled shock extendsion brackets? Thanks for your feedback!
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Unread 05-06-2010, 09:07 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
mudb8, you are right I am missing the rubber bumstop and cups. The PO installed the trailmaster extended bumpstop with screws on up top. Would you think that is why I need 3" up front? That is what I measured from top of spring bucket to where the bumstop screws in. For the rear my RC shock extenders are no angled like those you show in the picture. I am guessing that is why I have excessive bumpstop in the rear (4.5") Would you recommend SS angled shock extendsion brackets? Thanks for your feedback!
yep that's the reason.... and no I don't recomend RC's SS shock brackets... they put the shocks into the exhaust and the fuel tank not to metion decrease the uptravel. Just as Currie's, and tera's do also... I hack em off and reweld them slightly outboard behind the Lower CA's.

__________________
I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com
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