The "Fuzzy points", since you don't get it, are the different shock extended and collaplsed lengths with the same or less travel. for example,
OME N66L shocks are 15.5" collapsed and 26.5" extended... 11" travel..
Rancho 9000 rs999255 shocks are 15.875" collapsed and 25.875" extended... 10" travel.
Or an 11" travel Bilstein that has a 17" collapsed length and a 28" extended length....
SO, for those looking for a good ride and best flex, are best off to use the shortest collapsed length with longer travel that requires less bumpstop extension, The Bilstien, stuck in stock mounts will literally stink due to the length.... Thats all fact, not my Opinion. I put things together properly that work and perform best. For those that are putting on 35's and need 3" bumpstop extensions, the Variables switch gears allowing the use a longer collapsed length shock, just because it'll fit the application but will not ride as well due to the reduced suspension uptravel, the other problem is the shocks allow the axle to droop beyond the uncompressed length of the spring and is basicly unuseable. That extra droop causes extreme angles with Short Arm/Mid arms and Contributes to extreme rear steer due to unbalanced travel.
Sure, it make sense to get a short shock with long travel, but how will you find out what is the correct length? Your chart? Doubtful. I cant believe that you would actually discourage someone from actually taking a real-time measurement of their rig and being able to take into account all the variables involved with getting your tires to stuff, droop, and turn. 3" springs alone come in a multitude of extended lengths. As a enthusiast I would rather know for a fact. You say that you don't care if the flares rub, well that's your opinion. I would rather teach someone to do it themselves rather than rely on your supposed e-experience to guide me (e.g. tired polaroids).
Jenn's LJ ran n66s and 4" coils and a BL, and it needed every bit of 3.75" of bumpstop to keep the tires from bending the fenders. The shock was not the limiting factor, the arms and the sheetmetal was. I ran a center limiting strap to combat the anti-dive from the 4" lift and SAs.
There is NO way you can run effectively 2.5" coils with 14" of "balanced travel" on SAs. You can claim that all you want, but it's not practical. At 7" of droop, the front axle will drive under the rig on undercuts and the rear will do the same on climbs. You recognize this yourself in the text above. The extreme angle is due to the arm operating out of the designed arc and excessive lift.
Several threads ago, you claimed that your adjustable trackbar prevents rear-steer. Never explained how you came to that conclusion. Its been months and I still waiting for an explanation.
You also state that rear steer is due anti-squat and your LT SA suspension is able to tune it out. Tell me about that theory while you're at it. PLEASE educate me.
I removed my mid-arms to upgrade. I know that concept may be completely foreign to you, but motivated people do that. For some of us, 35s and factory axles get old fast. For someone who has performed "thousands" of modifications on jeeps you sure haven't done any to yours. My point is I've already been there and my jeep has evolved forward. However, just by doing so does not qualify me to offer advice to shannon campbell or dustin webster on a KOH build. Until you do something besides make due with your stock jeep, keep your opinions on custom suspension the bunny trails.
Oh, and it's bilstein not bilstien.