bumpstops, shock length, and tires size. help me iron out the fuzzy points.. - Page 15 - JeepForum.com

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post #211 of 383 Old 10-25-2011, 09:05 PM
EricsGreen98Tj
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Man the Tera Upper shock relocation brackets will let you reduce your amount of rear BS by 1". The only way to really figure out how much BS you need is to; A) supsend the frame on jackstands, pull the springs, and use a floor jack to push the axle up til your shock bottoms out or your run out of clearance(be it tire wise, CA wise or what) B) measure what your compressed length of your shocks are and make sure that your BS stop your uptravel before they bottom out(or your springs bind-overcompress-)

To get the most out of your shocks you really need to full outboard the rear. But with a new rust free frame I wasnt about to cut it up to outboard the rears; thats why I use the Tera brackets.


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post #212 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 03:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
Man the Tera Upper shock relocation brackets will let you reduce your amount of rear BS by 1". The only way to really figure out how much BS you need is to; A) supsend the frame on jackstands, pull the springs, and use a floor jack to push the axle up til your shock bottoms out or your run out of clearance(be it tire wise, CA wise or what) B) measure what your compressed length of your shocks are and make sure that your BS stop your uptravel before they bottom out(or your springs bind-overcompress-)

To get the most out of your shocks you really need to full outboard the rear. But with a new rust free frame I wasnt about to cut it up to outboard the rears; thats why I use the Tera brackets.
Thanks for the advice on the bar pin relocators. Is there any particular brand of bump stop that fits in the stock bell/cup that is any better than another brand? Any brand to make sure I stay away from?

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post #213 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 04:46 AM
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post #214 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 07:02 AM
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x's 2 for future reference

__________________________________________
Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker

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post #215 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 03:06 PM
EricsGreen98Tj
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Man the Currie BS's are hard to beat...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...-1-c-3790.html

Stay away from Daystar's cause they are too stiff and only fit in the upper cup.

Dont try to put all of your BS extension in just the cup (top), put some, if not all of it on the lower spring pad. If you extend your front BS 2" they hit the side of the spring.

And Tat they arent bar pin relocators. You dont even use a bar pin on the top. Just a shock busing and the supplied bolt...BPE's suck....they just reduce travel by spacing your shocks down and up...

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
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post #216 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
Man the Currie BS's are hard to beat...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...-1-c-3790.html

Stay away from Daystar's cause they are too stiff and only fit in the upper cup.

Dont try to put all of your BS extension in just the cup (top), put some, if not all of it on the lower spring pad. If you extend your front BS 2" they hit the side of the spring.

And Tat they arent bar pin relocators. You dont even use a bar pin on the top. Just a shock busing and the supplied bolt...BPE's suck....they just reduce travel by spacing your shocks down and up...
Cool! Thanks for the help!

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post #217 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 04:35 PM
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BTW-the Currie BS are top notch but if you dont want/cant spend that much loot Unlimited04 did a great job with his BS's. Look in his build for what he did, cheap and effective.

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
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post #218 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 04:46 PM
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BTW-the Currie BS are top notch but if you dont want/cant spend that much loot Unlimited04 did a great job with his BS's. Look in his build for what he did, cheap and effective.
The Currie units will work for what I'm trying to do. I'm wondering if the Currie rears slide over or replace the rear bells? And do the front's replace the long hanging down solid bar that appears to be stock?

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post #219 of 383 Old 10-26-2011, 11:43 PM
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I'm wondering if the Currie rears slide over or replace the rear bells? And do the front's replace the long hanging down solid bar that appears to be stock?
If by "bells" you mean the cups that hold the current bumpstop in the rear then YES they do replace it. The cups are also replaced in the front but that long hanging down piece is welded to the frame if we are talking about the same thing.

With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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post #220 of 383 Old 10-27-2011, 03:22 AM
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If by "bells" you mean the cups that hold the current bumpstop in the rear then YES they do replace it. The cups are also replaced in the front but that long hanging down piece is welded to the frame if we are talking about the same thing.
Thanks! I'll take a few pictures this afternoon.

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post #221 of 383 Old 10-27-2011, 02:50 PM
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Here's a pic of the front:


And one of the rear:

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post #222 of 383 Old 10-27-2011, 05:28 PM
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That long hangie down thing on the front of your Tj should have a cup bolted to it too....just like the rear. And why dont you have any poly stops in the cups? A little cushion is better than metal on metal..

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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post #223 of 383 Old 10-27-2011, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
That long hangie down thing on the front of your Tj should have a cup bolted to it too....just like the rear. And why dont you have any poly stops in the cups? A little cushion is better than metal on metal..
Read my post #206 in this thread, that's where I joined in. The previous owner abused my Jeep and I've been trying to rescue it ever since I got it.

My newest build:
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post #224 of 383 Old 10-27-2011, 06:27 PM
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The Currie bumpstops will fix all of that...the correct way.

You have a good start so far. I would change a few things as you have the time/money.

1) Bumpstops before you break something important
2) Ditch the body lift for a smaller 1" lift
3) Ditch the factory control arms for something like Currie, Savvy, or Rokmen.

With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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post #225 of 383 Old 10-27-2011, 06:44 PM
EricsGreen98Tj
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Im going to make my own CA's. JJ's on both ends. Its alot cheaper; if you can weld.

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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