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Unread 03-02-2011, 12:33 PM   #151
TheDragonfly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
here's some bumptop/spring tech....

Rear Springs are Rancho 2.5" RS616... unloaded length is 15.5". collapsed to coil bind they are 5",

Which means the 2.5" rear lift springs REQUIRE a minimum of 1.5" bumstop extension whith the relocated spring perches, no loss or gain in ride height was made from the relocation, I made sure to set them exact.


A stock 104 rubicon/sahara rear spring is 11 3/4" unloaded, 3 3/8" @ full coil bind...
You know, this is the kind of tech that should be available from every manufacturer, which its not. Any chance youll continue to gather spring info? How about Aev 3"

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Unread 03-02-2011, 07:48 PM   #152
EricsGreen98Tj
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Or mabey the Rough Country 2.5" springs??? Im at a toss-up between the AEV's(which are on back-order til sometime in April) and the Rough Country's....


So anybody know of a chart with the spring rates of various companies springs on it?? Wondering what a good rate is for a DD 4cyl with a front winch and 70 pound bumpers. Ideas anyone?
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Unread 03-02-2011, 09:19 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
Or mabey the Rough Country 2.5" springs??? Im at a toss-up between the AEV's(which are on back-order til sometime in April) and the Rough Country's....


So anybody know of a chart with the spring rates of various companies springs on it?? Wondering what a good rate is for a DD 4cyl with a front winch and 70 pound bumpers. Ideas anyone?
Rancho 2.5" 4cyl specific springs are best for the 4 banger IMO.
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Unread 03-07-2011, 07:17 AM   #154
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I have a 94 xj with a 3 inch rough country lift kit. i noticed i dont have any bumpstops anymore.. i run 31x 10.50's. what size bumpstops do i need to buy?
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Unread 03-07-2011, 07:31 PM   #155
yarmish
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Ok so reading thru this thread and trying to get a hold of what i need to do?

I am now running 4" Tera springs and RE long arm skid and arms.

I am going to be extending my front shock towers with the F-250 mounts and outboarding my rears with the TNT kit i picked up cheap.

I am running tube fenders front and rear so it looks like i will need 3" front and 2" rear bumpstops? I will have to measure for the proper length bilstein shocks before i set up my shock mounts? I would like to have around 6" up and 6" down in the front and 5 up/down in the rear.

Thank you for any advice
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Unread 03-07-2011, 07:49 PM   #156
EricsGreen98Tj
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You just want your bumpstops to keep you coils from binding/over compressing. If your gonna outboard you should be able to set everything to work how you want it, with coil bind/rubbing determining the length of your bumpstop.

Right?
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Unread 03-08-2011, 11:14 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yarmish View Post
Ok so reading thru this thread and trying to get a hold of what i need to do?

I am now running 4" Tera springs and RE long arm skid and arms.

I am going to be extending my front shock towers with the F-250 mounts and outboarding my rears with the TNT kit i picked up cheap.

I am running tube fenders front and rear so it looks like i will need 3" front and 2" rear bumpstops? I will have to measure for the proper length bilstein shocks before i set up my shock mounts? I would like to have around 6" up and 6" down in the front and 5 up/down in the rear.

Thank you for any advice
your bumpstops will depend on where the lower control arms hit the frame during full articulation which can happen before coil bind, tire's hitting the frame/shock towers and body panels, going outboard with the shocks allows you to maximize your uptravel, if you add bumpstops and keep the downtravel from unseating the coils, you are wasting you time with outboard mounts besides the handling benifits it will give you. the reality of it all is 10" travel shocks will unseat coils when using stock shock mounts considering they give 3" uptravel and 7" downtravel in a 3" lift, and outboard should be done to accomplish balanced up and down travel not more droop which will only give unuseable flex with the coils falling out. uptravel is every bit as good for flex as downtravel. too much downtravel drops coils and binds up Cv shafts leading to busted centering balls and broken u-joints.

the amount of down travel you have depends on how stiff your coils are, tall lifts limit downtravel due to driveline angle/binding, basicly what I'm saying for example is RE 5.5" lifts have less available down travel than any 2.5" lift springs available due to both the spring rates and ride height. the RE lift is using the uptravel it has to produce the flex it has.

2.5" springs are depending on the installer to Relocate both front and rear shocks to create the balanced 5.5-6" uptravel and 6" down travel that can be utilized with some body modification if tires over 32" are going to be used.
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Unread 03-25-2011, 11:12 PM   #158
SKINUM
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Am I overlooking something with my current setup........ 2.5" ome/1.25"body lift standard shocks, 315/75/16's, metalcloak fenders. Wondering specifically about rubbing issues or coil binding?
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Unread 03-26-2011, 09:34 AM   #159
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Originally Posted by SKINUM View Post
Am I overlooking something with my current setup........ 2.5" ome/1.25"body lift standard shocks, 315/75/16's, metalcloak fenders. Wondering specifically about rubbing issues or coil binding?
standard OME N66 up front require no additional bumpstop extension, lack of articulation from the 9" travel shock will contribute to the 35" tire not getting into the hood line of the fender since the metal cloak doesn't give any more clearance than stock in that area... If you also have bumpstop extension on the front with N66 shocks already, you have shock travel that cannot be used due to the collapsed shock length.
standard OME N67 rear shocks require a minimum of 1.25" extension, rear coils fullly bind with less than 1.25" extension, however the N67's will act as bumpstops at that point anyhow but will end up destroying the upper bar pin mount and the lower axle mount over time. the OME bushings are a molded rubber and survive the beatings they get being used as bumpstops unlike most other shock brands available.

My recommendation for the front is goto the 11" travel OME N66L front with 2" bumpstop extension to take full advantage of your suspension/body modifications
Leave the OME n66 shocks on the rear with proper bumpstop extension unless you modify the rear mounts in one way or another.

OME n66 front shocks are a direct bolt on replacement for a stock TJ and give a stock tj basically the same "flex" with 31" tires on stock suspension as some 3" kits offer. N67 rears can be used on stock suspension simply by relocating the lower axle mount to eliminate the need for bumpstop extension.
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

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Unread 03-26-2011, 04:12 PM   #160
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Does the longer shocks up front require longer brake lines as well? I think I could possible get by with the 35's in the back withouth the metalcloak rears. I've got adjustable lca's so I should be able to center everything up. Make sense?
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Unread 03-27-2011, 12:48 AM   #161
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Does the longer shocks up front require longer brake lines as well? I think I could possible get by with the 35's in the back withouth the metalcloak rears. I've got adjustable lca's so I should be able to center everything up. Make sense?
Relocate the brake line bracket and you have plenty of length with the stock lines.

the closer to center/farther you put the axle back the more you'll have to trim back the rear quarter panel..... with 33" tires, stock length lower rear control arms still put the tires in contact with the rear quarter.


I cut this back a hair over 2" and took 2" off the gen right corner gaurds, the tires are 33's and the lower control arms were 16" long, stock is 15.75"..... not much room is there???
My intension was to be able to run 35's on this build in the future.



you can't trim up anymore either without cutting off the spot welds that hold the fender well in....
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator @ jeepwest.com
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Unread 03-27-2011, 08:07 AM   #162
SKINUM
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Wow, I thought there would be more room back there.

I think I may just end up going with the ford shock tower up front and the TNT, A to Z or polyperformance kit in the rear to fit a longer shock in. Appreciate the help

Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
Relocate the brake line bracket and you have plenty of length with the stock lines.

the closer to center/farther you put the axle back the more you'll have to trim back the rear quarter panel..... with 33" tires, stock length lower rear control arms still put the tires in contact with the rear quarter.


I cut this back a hair over 2" and took 2" off the gen right corner gaurds, the tires are 33's and the lower control arms were 16" long, stock is 15.75"..... not much room is there???
My intension was to be able to run 35's on this build in the future.



you can't trim up anymore either without cutting off the spot welds that hold the fender well in....
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Unread 03-27-2011, 09:17 PM   #163
05xwrangler
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Just caught up, great thread guys (except the early hicup lol). Im new to all this and its helping tooonnnss. Im currently running 32" with a 2" spacer lift above the spring with stock shocks, wanting to get 4"-4.5" of total lift. Should i just throw the cheap spacers out and go with suspension?

This might help some guys out too.
http://www.4wd.com/jeep-advisors/sus...n-advisor.aspx

Last edited by 05xwrangler; 03-27-2011 at 10:52 PM..
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Unread 03-28-2011, 06:12 PM   #164
EricsGreen98Tj
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Probably get 4" springs and correct length shocks will help alot. But at 4" you kinda at the max of the stock control arms(Length wise) Plus you'll probably have to do either a t-case drop or an SYE/CV shaft to clear up any vibrations. If I were you I'd runa 1.25" bodylift and a set of 2.5" or 3" lift springs. Keeps everything so much simpler and closer to stock geometry. But I'm not a pro. Look to the Zone Offroad 4.25" combo kit(I ran it in the past and loved it) its a 1.25" BL and 3" suspension lift + a Motor mount lift all in one package. It rides dang well too.
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Unread 03-28-2011, 10:48 PM   #165
05xwrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
Probably get 4" springs and correct length shocks will help alot. But at 4" you kinda at the max of the stock control arms(Length wise) Plus you'll probably have to do either a t-case drop or an SYE/CV shaft to clear up any vibrations. If I were you I'd runa 1.25" bodylift and a set of 2.5" or 3" lift springs. Keeps everything so much simpler and closer to stock geometry. But I'm not a pro. Look to the Zone Offroad 4.25" combo kit(I ran it in the past and loved it) its a 1.25" BL and 3" suspension lift + a Motor mount lift all in one package. It rides dang well too.
Thanks bro ill look into it
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