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#1 | |
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Registered User
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bumpstop hits spring
just finsihed installing 4inch rc lift and noticed that the front pass side bumpstop seems tweaked to the front of the jeep a little causing it to hit the spring where the rubber bumpstop meets the inside of the bumpstop stud.i measured the driverside and compared to pass and its off by a 1/4 inch."driver side looks center in the spring" it drives fine and nothing looks bent "frame bracket,bump stud,spring plates" but i dont want the rubbing to eventually weaken the spring and scratch my spring paint
. does anyone know what would cause this? and would it be safe to take a hydrulic floor jack and put base against bumper and use the head to bend the bumpstop back some away from spring?
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Mine will rub sometimes while flexing but not on flat ground like that. Check to make sure the yellow rubber piece is inserted all the way and in straight.
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4.5" RE SF Lift, 1" BL, 35" Cooper Discoverer STT, Lockrite Locker, 8.8 Rear, AA SYE, Tom Woods DS, Sliders, Skids, Bumpers, Rear Stinger, RockCrusher Diff Covers, 8000# Winch, Herc'd Tub, Homemade Deck Cover, On Board Misting System and Faucet |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Sounds like you need to adjust the track bar and center the axle under the jeep.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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i just put it on jacks and took bolt out of trackbar and bolt out of lower control arm also took of swaybarlink and il be darned if a come along around the axle and front bumber wouldnt pull the axle forward enough to even move the bumbstop stud away from the spring a hair,i was thinking the stock track bar hole would work to move axle forward since i had to drill a new one 3/4 over with the rc kit but cant even get close to it ,feels like i might break sumthing or the come along it feels.i dunno
![]() failed to mention its not side to side causing issue its hitting on the front part of the spring tward the front of the jeep as if axle got to go forward Last edited by zigg; 06-06-2009 at 07:10 PM.. |
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#5 |
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want it rite or rite now?
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that is normal for 26" long shocks, the short arm radius is small which pulls the axle back as it goes down...
there's not much you can do about it other than put in a 2.25" bumpstop on the lower pad and turn the factory bell and rubber stop upside down, bolted to the lower stop.... I'd weld 10mm bolt in a 1/4 thick washer, grind off the head so it won't damage the rubber stop and bolt it in place of the factory bell and rubber stop... no pics of that one.... haven't done it yet, but I will... just something floating around in my head to eliminate the problem..
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable HighLine Hood Jeepers TJ Adjustable Track bars DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride 2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion 2006 Rubicon Unlimited ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator In need of work... 11/2/11 |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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if it came with adjustable control arms adjust them.That will move axle front to back.
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#7 | |
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want it rite or rite now?
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Quote:
that doesn't help at all with short arms at full droop....
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable HighLine Hood Jeepers TJ Adjustable Track bars DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride 2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion 2006 Rubicon Unlimited ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator In need of work... 11/2/11 |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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I think he is saying it hits spring on level ground.Not at full flex.
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#9 | |
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want it rite or rite now?
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Quote:
if it hit the spring on level ground, the tire would be pinned in the rear portion of the fender well... that would take rear upper control arm of 13.25" somehow being used as a lower front ca... ![]() lets see some pics OP..... so theres no misunderstanding..
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable HighLine Hood Jeepers TJ Adjustable Track bars DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride 2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion 2006 Rubicon Unlimited ASE Certified Master Tech/Fabricator In need of work... 11/2/11 |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Yeah pics would help alot.Maybe he mixed up the control arms you never know
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#11 |
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Registered User
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the kit didnt come with adjustable arms and i never touched the upper arms their still stock and yes it hits just sitting on lvl ground,when i jacked it up last night when the tire droped because of jack lift the spring let out a loud snap due to the metal flange catching on the bump stop,the way it is the first time i go off road spring gunna hang up against that lip when compressed.il work on gettin pics up today my wife lost our camera while at the fun park so im gunna try to barrow a buds for today.
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#12 |
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Registered User
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It is totally normal for the lip around the retaining cup on the front bump stops to contact the spring at full droop with a short arm lift installed. The spring gets hung up on it and makes an annoying twang as it passes by the lip.
The fix for this it to remove the cup that holds the upper bump stop and grind the lip off of it ( At least about 180 degrees around the cup, and place the grinded off side towards the front when you re-install it.) If it is hitting when sitting level on the ground, then something is really wrong. Don't even think about bending the bump stop with your jack as it will not make proper contact with the axle at full stuff. I have done this same mod on 4 different LJs. - BTW, before you take that thing offroad, be sure to check your front brake line lengths at full droop with the front wheels turned to the stops. Usually the extened lines are still a little short and you might have to re-locate the hard lines a little lower on the frame to stay safe. Dave S. |
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#13 |
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Brake Wizard
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley, California
Posts: 18,900
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I'd really be interested in seeing some caster numbers. I'll bet it's not what it's supposed to be.
For the record, it matters not whether it's short or long arms if the spring is bowed. Rather than grind, it's very easy to wedge a jack in there with the spring out and jack the bumpstop post back a bit. The bigger issue is companies that don't split the bumpstops like Currie does and put half on the bottom spring perch and half at the top. The top post is at a slight angle and adding all the bumpstop extension up there just makes it run into the inside of the spring sooner.
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I am Savvy I am handling the sales of Black Magic Brakes on www.blackmagicbrakes.com |
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Somewhere between the Port of Indecision and South of Disorder
Posts: 498
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I was wondering the same thing about the caster.
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#15 |
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Registered User
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here are some pics of it
here its level under its own weight [IMG] [/IMG]lil closer shot [IMG] [/IMG]here its on jack and wheel off ![]() [IMG] [/IMG][IMG] [/IMG]sum deff wrong but like i said with the lower ca bolt out,trac bar bolt,and swaybar disconected i couldnt budge it forward at all ![]() |
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