[Jeepster197]

Should i just expect a little bumpsteer with my setup? Check my sig i have a DPA and track drop on the front with a 4" lift. Didn't know if i should change anything else. It only happens on bumps and it moves the steering wheel left to right and then its smooth again. Any insite would be great i couldn't find any threads with my setup.

[maddogfx]

Your Drag Link and Track Bar should be paralell. You may or may not need the dpa depending on how close to paralell your the components are.

[Jerry Bransford]

Bump steer is only the product of a poor steering design or someone screwed up and you have mis-matched Pitman arm and drag link angles so no, it's not normal or something you have to live with.

Which end is your trackbar's drop located? Frame end or axle end?

[Silver04TJ]

You have any pics up of your rig Jeepster? I'm getting ready to setup my 04 Wrangler Sport witha similiar setup and your exact same size tires and the black DC-01's.

[Jeepster197]

So i should be to lay a level on the drag & track and it should come up level if everything is correct? Yes whats your email and i'll send you a pic.

[Silver04TJ]

chadwickking@gmail.com

Thanks!!

[hatch524]

Originally Posted by Jeepster197

So i should be to lay a level on the drag & track and it should come up level if everything is correct? Yes whats your email and i'll send you a pic.

yes, they should fall at the same degree

[yellojeeper]

I had the same prob. Getting rid of the DPA helped enormously. I also corrected the caster and that helped too. My Jeep was un-driveable when I got it (due to bumpsteer and wander) and now it actually goes down the road pretty well.

[HipCheck_1]

Originally Posted by Jeepster197

So i should be to lay a level on the drag & track and it should come up level if everything is correct? Yes whats your email and i'll send you a pic.

Parallel and level are two different things. The bars should be parallel but I don't think they need to be level (Parallel to the ground)

[Humboldt]

Originally Posted by Jeepster197

So i should be to lay a level on the drag & track and it should come up level if everything is correct? Yes whats your email and i'll send you a pic.

A better way to do this is to use string from the pitman arm to the knuckle and between the two track bar mount holes. Those two pieces of string should be parallel.

Just a level on the track bar or drag link installed will not be accurate with the different bends in them.

Once the two stings are in place, you con hold up the other pitman arm and quickly see if it will be better or worse.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by thedirt

Is there a reason you dropped the pitman arm and track bar? If it were me, I'd put the stock pitman arm back in and pick up an adjustable track bar..

Lots of us running dropped trackbars which requires a dropped Pitman arm, me included. I'm running RE's super-heavy duty #1610 adjustable trackbar which requires a dropped upper trackbar mount.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by thedirt

But why do you run a dropped track bar, that's what I'm trying to figure out.. Is it the same sort of logic as going to long arms (or dropping the control arm mounts on the frame)?

Because my RE 1610 adjustable trackbar requires a dropped upper trackbar mount, that's why.

Why does RE require it for that particular trackbar? My theory (I never actually asked RE why) is because that particular trackbar is primarily only used on taller lifts, dropping its upper mount allows a dropped Pitman arm to be installed. With both (drag link and track bar) angles reduced, it likely reduces binding at both of their joints.

[Jeepster197]

I did a little measuring. From grease fitting to grease fitting my track bar is dropped about 1 3/4" lower than my DPA. The reason i used these is because thats what came with the kit. Would i be better off getting an adjustable track bar and a stock pitman arm. Would my steering be less loss and less wonder.