[MuDD OlllllllO]

Originally Posted by GreenJip

Any year Explorer with a front CV shaft will work, just make sure it has the 1310 U-Joints. I pulled mine off the doner vehicle when I did my 8.8 swap.

What year was the donor vehicle? That will help me narrow it down to the ones with the 1310 U-joints. Most people who are selling them have no idea what type of u-joints they have... thanks!

[FifteenCents]

Originally Posted by ksp2002TJ

I am either blind or too tired, but I didn't catch this. When taking the springs from the Crown Vic for the 3" lift, do you want the fronts from the CV for the rear on the TJ? or do you use all the springs from the CV in the same positions on your TJ?

You need the front springs and the rubber isolators from a V8 Grand Cherokee
and the rear springs from a Crown Victoria. I have a complete write up on what I did
here.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/cheap-3-5-inches-lift-276664/

[bebout]

still nothing on track bars?

[RUBtjICON]

Originally Posted by WillysEdition04

ZJ front springs installed on front TJ provide 3" lift. TJ front springs moved to TJ rear will lift rear to level out the Jeep.

What's the advantages of the Durango stearing box swap?
Also: What years Durango are compatible with what years TJ?

So If I run coils from the front of a '95 V8 ZJ, and a 2" BB in the back, will that get me sitting level, insteads of nose down ?

[FifteenCents]

Originally Posted by Tang419

So If I run coils from the front of a '95 V8 ZJ, and a 2" BB in the back, will that get me sitting level, insteads of nose down ?

That sounds like it might work...

give it a go and let us know how it works.

[Guardian7]

Bullet Proof Tie Rod Sleeve for $8 using a piece of pipe from Home Depot or Lowe's.
Many of my Club Members are running this mod which is cheap and easy to do. This mod will bullet proof one of the weakest parts found on a Jeep, the "Tie-Rod" and will increase the strength 100 times over stock. I have rammed huge boulders since installing mine and it literally bounced off the rocks with no damage. You can add the sleeve before or after your stock rod gets bent but most people add the sleeve after they damage their factory tie-rod as a repair by bending the rod straight enough to slide a piece of DOM tubing over it. Simply pop the end joint off the drivers side steering knuckle, it helps to have tie-rod puller, (Harbor Freight) mark the threads on the end joint before unscrewing it, loosen the sleeve clamp, apply some WD40 to the end joint threads and unscrew it. Slide your new Super Sleeve on, install clamp and end joint, re-attach to steering knuckle and re-check the Toe-in for 1/8" toe with front wheels off the ground. If the factory rod is still straight the sleeve may rattle just a bit so to cure this we drill a couple holes about 4-6" from each end and inject some RTV into the space between the tubes curing any rattles. (Specs on the tubing for TJ are as follows: Approx Length=32.5" OD=1.25" Wall=.120" pipe. DOM tubing is nice but not necessary) The trail repair shown below was done by my friend Doug on a 2005 Rubicon which was blocking the John Bull Trail.

Wimpy Stock Tie-rod After Hitting Rock

Bullet Proof Tie-rod After Sleeve Install

The Proof: Here you see me slamming into a boulder on Holcomb with my Bullet Proof Tie-rod Sleeve and zero damage, no I did not plan to hit the rock but I am still amazed!


Thanks to my friend Doug for this mod

[willhbauto]

Originally Posted by Guardian7

Bullet proof Tie Rod Sleeve for $8 piece of pipe at Home Depot or Lowe's.
Many of my Club Members are running this mod which is cheap and easy to do. This mod will bullet proof one of the weakest parts found on a Jeep, the "Tie-Rod" and will increase the strength 100 times over stock. I have rammed huge boulders since installing mine and it literally bounced off the rocks with no damage. You can add the sleeve before or after your stock rod gets bent but most people add the sleeve after they damage their factory tie-rod as a repair by bending the rod straight enough to slide a piece of DOM tubing over it. Simply pop the end joint off the drivers side steering knuckle, it helps to have tie-rod puller, (Harbor Freight) mark the threads on the end joint before unscrewing it, loosen the sleeve clamp, apply some WD40 to the end joint threads and unscrew it. Slide your new Super Sleeve on, install clamp and end joint, re-attach to steering knuckle and re-check the Toe-in for 1/8" toe with front wheels off the ground. If the factory rod is still straight the sleeve may rattle just a bit so to cure this we drill a couple holes about 4-6" from each end and inject some RTV into the space between the tubes curing any rattles. (Specs on the tubing for TJ are as follows: Approx Length=32.5" OD=1.25" Wall=.120" pipe. DOM tubing is nice but not necessary) The trail repair shown below was done by Doug on a 2005 Rubicon which was blocking the John Bull trail.

Wimpy Stock Tie-rod After Hitting Rock

Bullet Proof Tie-rod After Sleeve Install

The Proof: Here you see me slamming into a boulder on Holcomb with my Bullet Proof Tie-rod Sleeve and zero damage, no I did not plan to hit the rock but I am still amazed!


Thanks to my friend Doug for this mod

Awesome, I've been wanting to upgrade my steering, maybe I'll do this as temporary fix so I don't bend mine up. How long of a piece to I buy? The whole length of the tie rod?

[GreenJip]

Originally Posted by MuDD OlllllllO

What year was the donor vehicle? That will help me narrow it down to the ones with the 1310 U-joints. Most people who are selling them have no idea what type of u-joints they have... thanks!

Mine came from a 98.

[benjamin.olejnik]

Okay, I'm a nube to jeeps and lifts in general, are these Crown Vic springs a true 3" life option? Do the shocks need to be upgraded? What about the drive shaft, steering linkage (if going with the front)? Sorry for my ignorance, college degrees do not translate into mechanical experience very well!

[HellGoneWild]

subscribe is good!

[MuDD OlllllllO]

Originally Posted by GreenJip

Mine came from a 98.

Thanks for the idea!!!

I got a front driveshaft from a 93 Cherokee for $40.
Then I ordered this kit for $65:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-12462_dana_spicer_driveshaft_repair_kit__dana_spic er.htm
and also this:
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32485B_cv_ball_dust_shield_1990-96_bronco.htm
*note: you might have to file the inside down a bit to get it the new dust cover to fit, depending on what driveshaft you get, but it is millimeters.

Then I rebuilt the driveshaft. When you are getting grease, be sure to pick one of these up:
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/steering_suspension/ball_joint_press.htm

It makes the job WAY easier.

Going to have it shortened by a local shop next week after the SYE intall this weekend should be about $70. That will make the total be $179 for an effectively new CV driveshaft. Oh yeah, and don't forget the flat black rustoleum. I will post some pics later

[FifteenCents]

Originally Posted by benjamin.olejnik

Okay, I'm a nube to jeeps and lifts in general, are these Crown Vic springs a true 3" life option? Do the shocks need to be upgraded? What about the drive shaft, steering linkage (if going with the front)? Sorry for my ignorance, college degrees do not translate into mechanical experience very well!

When using the parts from other vehicles is sometimes called a franken lift.

The grand cherokee front spring and ford Crown Vic rear spring lift it is not
a "KIT" in a kit you get everything that has been engineered to work
together.

What I did and what people are talking about is a "MOD" modification if you will.
It took a lot of tweeking and adjusting to get something that worked

I could not afford to buy a "lift kit" so I used what was available.

If you do not have the resources or the mechanical ability it is best to buy a "KIT".

here is the wrwite up on what I did to get 3.5 inches of lift.
http://http://www.tjhardcore.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=603&highlight=

[Si1ver03Rubicon]

So do you have to run the ZJ spring isolators? Or can you run just the spring for a smaller lift? I've got a 2.25" BB and its got a sag in the front.

[slate210]

Awesome thread. Any words of wisdom on the ZJ rear disc brake swap? I've got the calipers, pads, and rotors. Just trying to find a nice set of backing plates.

[FifteenCents]

Originally Posted by Si1ver03Rubicon

So do you have to run the ZJ spring isolators? Or can you run just the spring for a smaller lift? I've got a 2.25" BB and its got a sag in the front.

No you do not have to use the isolators, but you will not gain much.

The V8 ZJ springs with one stock spacer will net you 3 inches of lift and will
level your TJ (remove the front lower than the back rake). Not really
worth the effort in my opnion. Running without any isolators will make your
jeep sound a little rough on the road, road noise will travel through the axle to the frame though the springs.

If you put the crown vic springs in the back without any spacers you will get
3.5 inches of lift. The rear upper spring perch has a rubber washer so the
sound is muffled there.