Broken front track bar bracket - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 11-19-2009, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
unlimited4x4
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Broken front track bar bracket

So, I drove out of the yard and this happened. I know why...it was my mistake. My question is, what is the best way to repair it?

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post #2 of 24 Old 11-19-2009, 10:56 AM
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Cut out a piece of plate that matches the shape of the bracket, drill the hole in the proper location, and weld it on over the top of that one.

My RHD TJ - Savvy equipped... And loving it!

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post #3 of 24 Old 11-19-2009, 10:58 AM
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the best way to fix it is going to involve busting out the welder.

I'd use an angle grinder to cut most of it out, then use 3/16" plate to weld a new face on.

Keep in mind the bracket width is such that a specific sized joint/bushing fits into it. You'll need to keep these tolerances in order to keep the bushing spacing proper - the bolt will compress the two pieces together, but you don't want to induce stresses where you don't need to.

I'd start by cutting a piece of scrap pipe/tubing as close to the exact width of the bushing sleeve as you can get. Then figure out how much of that bracket I wanted to cut off or clean up the sharp edges. Then make a 3/16" plate and drill a hole in it for the bolt (~12-13mm). Then shape that new plate with a grinder until it lines up with the original hole, with about 1/4" overlap over the stock bracket - using the previously made scrap spacer to keep the bushing width appropriate. Insert a bolt and clamp the plate over the outside of the stock bracket, clamping the scrap spacer in the middle like a track bar bushing would be installed. Clamp everything together with vice grips, then tack the plate in place on all four corners, alternating edges. Then weld the whole thing to the stock bracket around the edges, and grind the welds flush as necessary.

Alternatively, you could weld a grade 8 washer to the stock hole location and hope it doesn't break again.
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post #4 of 24 Old 11-19-2009, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I have a friend coming over this evening to help. We are going to do what you both recommended. I wasn't to keen on re-drilling the mounting holet either, but I though I would give it a try. I will not recommend this method to anyone. This is my 1st lift....living and learning!

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post #5 of 24 Old 11-20-2009, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the new bracket. I got the steel from a scrap bin at the local supplier for 80 cents. Made a template out of cardboard, traced it on the steel and cut with dremel. I could not find a piece of 3/16", so it is the same 1/8" thickness as the original bracket. Also picked up a new bolt today, the old one was really dinged up and the threads were damaged. Tomorrow it gets welded on.
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post #6 of 24 Old 01-05-2010, 06:06 PM
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This is as good a place as any to put this. This is a quick CAD/FEA I did to show why drilling the track bar mount is a bad idea.

Legend:
Blue = very little stress
Green = less stress
Yellow = high stress
Red = very high stress
Pink arrows = lateral force
Think of it like a weathermap - basically the same thing - a gradient. This is a very simplistic illustration keep in mind

Notice the top bracket, with one hole, has a broad stress distribution side to side, with only a little yellow around the bolt hole. This is normal since the more low stress color the better - means the forces applied to the bracket are being absorbed by more material.

Now notice the bottom bracket, with the redrilled hole. Notice how the stress is concentrated to one side of the bracket, and how there is a large amount of red around the new bolt hole. Also notice how the previous hole creates a problem - it blocks the stress gradient from extending to the left side of the piece. Most importantly, notice how the stress gradient extends into the edge of the material - right where unlimited4x4's mount ripped.

So the take home message is, if you're going to re-drill the hole, thats fine, just weld a 3/16" or 1/8" plate over the existing mount to reinforce it and prevent this from happening.
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post #7 of 24 Old 01-16-2010, 07:43 AM
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here's a good example of a redrilled mount with welded on support:

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Originally Posted by pornstar View Post
I love how mods get corners cut from them as time goes on. The mod was to re drill the hole after plating over the top and welding it. The factory "tin" bracket sucks all together let alone drilling a hole near the edge. Heres some pics of mine due to ive got a RE 1660 but didnt like how the threads were too close to the end. Got some more bite out of my adjustment. Moved 1in.





from: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/dr...08/index2.html
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post #8 of 24 Old 03-01-2012, 08:45 PM
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I've been studying the various threads regarding small lifts and track bar clearance issues. I have read that the stock track bar is best for clearance and that the drag link and track bar need to be parallel. So my question is: Between the two options of lengthing the stock track bar or redrilling the axle mount, which does a better job of keeping the drag link and track bar parrallel? Or is the difference between the two options not enough to worry about?

Welding on a plate and drilling a new hole seems much easier to accomplish. I have a stock 2003 rubicon which I have owned since 04 (19k on it when I bought it) and my front axle is already shifted to the drivers side about 5/8 inch and it has always been that way. The jeep has always driven and handled just fine with that shift. But I am planning to install OME shocks and springs and I don't want to add another 3/4 inch shift to the drivers side.
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post #9 of 24 Old 03-01-2012, 09:12 PM
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post #10 of 24 Old 03-02-2012, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
very minor. don't even worry about it.
Great, thanks.

I guess the aftermarket adjustable track bar options have not changed - still require 2" bumpstop or ~ 1.3" bumpstop if combined with the ZJ V-8 tie rod swap?
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post #11 of 24 Old 03-02-2012, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laddie View Post
I guess the aftermarket adjustable track bar options have not changed - still require 2" bumpstop or ~ 1.3" bumpstop if combined with the ZJ V-8 tie rod swap?
Correct. As far as I know, right now the best options available are Currie and JKS. Both Currie TJS/TJJ and JKS "new style" or "old style" require 2" front bumpstop extensions. Only the JKS "new style" will fit with ~1.3", if using a V8 ZJ tie-rod.
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post #12 of 24 Old 06-23-2012, 05:20 PM
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very good thread thank you for the info everyone. the dealer did this to my rig as well instead of installing an adjustable trackbar....
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post #13 of 24 Old 06-14-2013, 12:58 PM
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Ok
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post #14 of 24 Old 06-25-2013, 05:15 AM
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In my track down of DW I found the relocate hole the PO drilled is wallowing out, a lot. I've got some steel plate, but it's pretty soft. I'll find a scrap of harder stuff, and put back in the original spot with an adjustable track bar.

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post #15 of 24 Old 06-25-2013, 06:52 AM
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The stock track bar is pretty beefy. I think cutting it, adding a short piece of heavy wall internal threaded tube and your end of chosing should be considered by those with the capabilities. I did that with mine out of necessity. But, it worked out really well.

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