Brake Pads And Rotors

WR4NGLER · 07-20-2004, 08:32 AM

The stealership told me to replace my pads and rotors it's 450 dollars. I told them not to do it.

They told me the pads need replaced and the rotors are a bit rusted (not warped) so they need replaced too.

How much are pads and rotors (assuming I take them somewhere and they can't be cut), so that I can do the overhaul myself.

wyldejackyl · 07-20-2004, 08:49 AM

rust hurts nothing. Measure them and cut them if they are in spec.
NEVER get your jeep serviced at a dealer. Would you want your teeth worked on by a 8th grade biology student? That's how the mechanics are at the dealer.

WR4NGLER · 07-20-2004, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wyldejackyl

rust hurts nothing. Measure them and cut them if they are in spec.
NEVER get your jeep serviced at a dealer. Would you want your teeth worked on by a 8th grade biology student? That's how the mechanics are at the dealer.

I just needed to know what was wrong first before I did anything. I'm not super-jeep guy, so I'm still hesitant to work on some things. I plan on getting some nice rotors and pads and doing it myself, I just needed a double-take on it.

(an 8th grade teacher is better than what I can do for most stuff)

chevtech · 07-20-2004, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wyldejackyl

rust hurts nothing. Measure them and cut them if they are in spec.
NEVER get your jeep serviced at a dealer. Would you want your teeth worked on by a 8th grade biology student? That's how the mechanics are at the dealer.

Doh!

Ex-dealer mechanic thinking this may not be an entirely accurate statement.

**Jerry Bransford** · 07-20-2004, 10:49 AM

Rust on cast rotors is normal, I almost can't believe that dealer mechanic said they need replacing because they are "a little rusted". Brake pads sell for $30 or so and it takes maybe an hour to replace both sides with no special tools needed.

WR4NGLER · 07-20-2004, 10:56 AM

Jerry, I made sure to ask him if they were warped, and he said no.

Maybe they have a metal glaze on them, as frequent commuting puts more than normal stress on my brakes, and because he said they can't turn them they need replacing?

Would you suggest replacing the pads first, and based on results determine if new rotors are needed?

WR4NGLER · 07-20-2004, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WR4NGLER

Jerry, I made sure to ask him if they were warped, and he said no.

Maybe they have a metal glaze on them, as frequent commuting puts more than normal stress on my brakes, and because he said they can't turn them they need replacing?

Would you suggest replacing the pads first, and based on results determine if new rotors are needed?

The Jeep is at the dealer now, and I paid $40 to diagnose it, so when I pick it up I can ask more questions (since I paid to get the problem diagnosed). I will ask specifically why they think it needs replacing and that I heard non-warped rotors should be fine.

Who knows, they might have just been trying to screw me over.

chevtech · 07-20-2004, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WR4NGLER

Jerry, I made sure to ask him if they were warped, and he said no.

Maybe they have a metal glaze on them, as frequent commuting puts more than normal stress on my brakes, and because he said they can't turn them they need replacing?

Would you suggest replacing the pads first, and based on results determine if new rotors are needed?

Light rust pitting is pretty common in rotors. Thing is though, the rust will imbed itself in the pads and can cause squeaky brakes. If it is just light pitting I would just have them resurfaced. If the pitting is severe and you can see it only gets worse as you cut into the rotor (sometimes they do that, rusting from the inside) than you may consider just replacing them.

cravnpup · 07-20-2004, 11:01 AM

You can get performance rotors and pads for $250 shipped... Do not get Chrysler replacement parts!! They will warp in no time.. BTW, it's not necessarily the mechanics that are bad, it's the Service Managers and the parts they have to work with that should steer you away.. Most service managers are told to do the most profitable repair, not the easiest or cheapest. That means replacing bad parts with an OEM part that's double the aftermarket price and half the aftermarket quality... If you can start doing your own work, I'd highly recommend it. Start small and work your way up as your confidence grows. You'll save a ton of money, and you'll be learning a valueable tool that can be used for the rest of your life..

WR4NGLER · 07-20-2004, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chevtech

Light rust pitting is pretty common in rotors. Thing is though, the rust will imbed itself in the pads and can cause squeaky brakes. If it is just light pitting I would just have them resurfaced. If the pitting is severe and you can see it only gets worse as you cut into the rotor (sometimes they do that, rusting from the inside) than you may consider just replacing them.

Understood. So, I'll find a place that can turn them, and get a price and then bring them there and if they say they can't turn them because of that reason, I get new ones. If they turn them, then I cna hold off for a while. And then I can put the rotor back in and replace the pads.

Also, I have to see what the dealer says concerning his diagnosis of the problem, I'll ask him to be more specific.

**Jerry Bransford** · 07-20-2004, 11:32 AM

Verify that the rotors are not composite before having them turned, only cast rotors do well after they're turned. Any shop that turns rotors can tell you if they're cast or composite.

WR4NGLER · 07-20-2004, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

Verify that the rotors are not composite before having them turned, only cast rotors do well after they're turned. Any shop that turns rotors can tell you if they're cast or composite.

ok.

I just got a call from the dealer, guy didn't charge me for the diagosis of the brakes and said when I pick it up he will talk to me about it.

He did, however, charge me 360 for:

Fuel Injection Servicing
Oil Change
Rear Tail Light Fix
Sway Bar Link Fix

brrempel · 07-20-2004, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WR4NGLER

He did, however, charge me 360 for:

Fuel Injection Servicing
Oil Change
Rear Tail Light Fix
Sway Bar Link Fix

That's a lot of $ for not much work.

cravnpup · 07-20-2004, 12:11 PM

I hope they ok'd it with you first...

fyrfyter43 · 07-20-2004, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

Verify that the rotors are not composite before having them turned, only cast rotors do well after they're turned.

I would have to disagree with you. Composite rotors can be resurfaced, without problems, provided that the correct adapters are used.

07-20-2004, 08:49 AM	#2
wyldejackyl Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Chicago, Hellinois, Chicago, Hellinois Posts: 703 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	rust hurts nothing. Measure them and cut them if they are in spec. NEVER get your jeep serviced at a dealer. Would you want your teeth worked on by a 8th grade biology student? That's how the mechanics are at the dealer. __________________ ..::2007 JK Unlimited X::.. 1500W inverter Midland 1001LWX CB 55/100W H4 Hella headlamp conversion w/ dual relays

07-20-2004, 11:01 AM	#9
cravnpup Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Golden, CO Posts: 90 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	You can get performance rotors and pads for $250 shipped... Do not get Chrysler replacement parts!! They will warp in no time.. BTW, it's not necessarily the mechanics that are bad, it's the Service Managers and the parts they have to work with that should steer you away.. Most service managers are told to do the most profitable repair, not the easiest or cheapest. That means replacing bad parts with an OEM part that's double the aftermarket price and half the aftermarket quality... If you can start doing your own work, I'd highly recommend it. Start small and work your way up as your confidence grows. You'll save a ton of money, and you'll be learning a valueable tool that can be used for the rest of your life.. __________________ 2000 Z71 Tahoe (mine) - Magnaflow, UPD, ASP, CFM-Tech, Superchips, Transgo, BFG, JBL, JL Audio 2002 TJ-X (hers) - 4.0, 5 speed, 3.73's (open), 2" BB with 32" BFG AT's on AR23's, Turbo City intake, 180* t-stat with highflow housing, and a Magnaflow 14" catback with straight pipe (can you say loud?)..

07-20-2004, 12:11 PM	#14
cravnpup Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Golden, CO Posts: 90 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I hope they ok'd it with you first... __________________ 2000 Z71 Tahoe (mine) - Magnaflow, UPD, ASP, CFM-Tech, Superchips, Transgo, BFG, JBL, JL Audio 2002 TJ-X (hers) - 4.0, 5 speed, 3.73's (open), 2" BB with 32" BFG AT's on AR23's, Turbo City intake, 180* t-stat with highflow housing, and a Magnaflow 14" catback with straight pipe (can you say loud?)..

07-20-2004, 10:56 AM	#6
WR4NGLER Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 303 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Jerry, I made sure to ask him if they were warped, and he said no. Maybe they have a metal glaze on them, as frequent commuting puts more than normal stress on my brakes, and because he said they can't turn them they need replacing? Would you suggest replacing the pads first, and based on results determine if new rotors are needed?