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Unread 07-04-2012, 12:45 PM   #1
tapenick
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Madison, AL
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Brake Booster Bad?

1990 Sport 4.0/auto - occasionally when the brake pedal is depressed I hear a sound like gushing air and the brakes don't work well. I guess that sound is actually vacuum and the booster is going bad?

Tom

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Unread 07-04-2012, 01:08 PM   #2
Mywrangler94
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Brakes are nothing to fool around with.....check all the lines, make sure you don't have a leak. Check the fluid in the master......pull your drums make sure your wheel cylinders aren't leaking......Basics...always the basics first...
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Unread 07-04-2012, 01:13 PM   #3
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tapenick View Post
1990 Sport 4.0/auto - occasionally when the brake pedal is depressed I hear a sound like gushing air and the brakes don't work well. I guess that sound is actually vacuum and the booster is going bad?

Tom
Your diagnosis sounds correct
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Unread 07-04-2012, 02:28 PM   #4
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mywrangler94 View Post
Brakes are nothing to fool around with.....check all the lines, make sure you don't have a leak. Check the fluid in the master......pull your drums make sure your wheel cylinders aren't leaking......Basics...always the basics first...
If I have a hole in the side of the engine block with piston rod hanging out of it, do I need to pull the dipstick to see if it's low on oil?

I always agree with verifying the basics unless the problem is obvious which in this case it is.
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Unread 07-08-2012, 09:57 AM   #5
tapenick
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Done! Thanks for the validation guys. Quick write-up... this is for a 2000 model (not 1990 like I said in my original post!):
Remove brake lines from master cylinder (I drained mine first with a vacuum pump to avoid mess) - 12mm (preferably line) wrench
Remove two 13mm fasteners that secure the line support bracket to the front of the master cylinder
Slide the line support bracket off of the bolts that hold the master cylinder so you can get a box end (13mm) wrench on the fasteners that secure the master cylinder. I think this is important, I tried to use an open end wrench and damaged one of the nuts.
Remove master cylinder
From inside the cab under the dash - remove the four 14mm fasteners that secure the booster to the firewall
Remove the clip that secures the booster to the brake pedal
The booster should be free at this point
Installation is basically the reverse. The only hiccup I had was that my brake light switch was about 1/4 inch from the brake pedal when all was finished. (so the brake lights stayed on) Turns out the switch "auto-adjusts" so I just needed to pull the switch plunger out some.

Working great, thanks again!


Tom
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Unread 07-08-2012, 10:11 AM   #6
SlackJaw
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Nice write up
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