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Unread 06-16-2013, 05:07 PM   #1
denny472
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On-Board Shower

Hi Folks... Kicking around the idea of a onboard shower, I have seen the heat exchangers that you can buy or build....but I was wondering if the transmission cooler in the bottom of the radiator would be suffient enough to heat the water. I purchased a 3 row radiator and it came with the cooler that isn't being used, it has 3/8" inlet and outlet...Any info welcome....Thanks, Denny

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Unread 06-16-2013, 05:59 PM   #2
freeskier93
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How is the transmission cooler going to heat the water?

I've seen this idea a couple time and I think they made some kind of heat exchanger on the heater core hose.
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Unread 06-16-2013, 06:15 PM   #3
Stu Olson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
How is the transmission cooler going to heat the water?

I've seen this idea a couple time and I think they made some kind of heat exchanger on the heater core hose.
The AT cooler is built into the bottom of the radiator. When the radiator gets hot, so does the contents of the AT cooler. Not saying it is a great way to do it, but that is the theory behind the idea.
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Unread 06-16-2013, 06:16 PM   #4
Stu Olson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denny472 View Post
Hi Folks... Kicking around the idea of a onboard shower, I have seen the heat exchangers that you can buy or build....but I was wondering if the transmission cooler in the bottom of the radiator would be suffient enough to heat the water. I purchased a 3 row radiator and it came with the cooler that isn't being used, it has 3/8" inlet and outlet...Any info welcome....Thanks, Denny
It wouldn't be very hard to conduct a simple test to see if you can get enough heat. Get the pump you intend on using....fill up a 5 gallon bucket of water....pump the water through the AT cooler and into another bucket....measure the temp of the water in the 2nd bucket.
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Unread 06-16-2013, 06:19 PM   #5
freeskier93
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Originally Posted by Stu Olson View Post
The AT cooler is built into the bottom of the radiator. When the radiator gets hot, so does the contents of the AT cooler. Not saying it is a great way to do it, but that is the theory behind the idea.
Yeah, might get a bit warm, but not the best way to do it. The coolant is already pretty cool at that point, and you still have the fact that it's being actively cooled.

OP, to be efficient and warm water quickly you need the largest temperature differential. The hottest coolant is going to be at the heater core input hose and upper radiator hose. Being that the heater core hose is longer it will be easier to make a heat transfer system there.

You could replace a portion of the heater core hose with copper pipe, then wrap another piece of copper pipe around that for the water to flow through. Then just insulate the whole thing. Even with the rubber hose, at operating temperature that thing will get to hot to even touch.
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Unread 06-16-2013, 07:36 PM   #6
denny472
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Thank you for your replies... I am going to run might come through the system and see what temperature the water comes out
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Unread 06-16-2013, 07:48 PM   #7
denny472
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Shower

Sorry about the reply above...tried to use the iphone voice...looks like it didn't work so well...anyway, I am going to pump water through the A/T cooler and measure the results. And yes Stu, the coolant at the bottom is going to be cooler...but it still should be 150 degree or so. The question would be how many loops are there and will the water have time to absorb the heat....I will let you folks know...Thanks again, Denny
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Unread 06-16-2013, 07:52 PM   #8
freeskier93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denny472 View Post
Sorry about the reply above...tried to use the iphone voice...looks like it didn't work so well...anyway, I am going to pump water through the A/T cooler and measure the results. And yes Stu, the coolant at the bottom is going to be cooler...but it still should be 150 degree or so. The question would be how many loops are there and will the water have time to absorb the heat....I will let you folks know...Thanks again, Denny
Worth a shot, might get it warm enough to be comfortable.
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Unread 06-16-2013, 10:44 PM   #9
Gordon-0
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who says it has to heat it up in one pass?

run a small pump in a recirculating setup that constantly spins water through the radiator's ATF cooler.
use your main pump to pull water from the tank to the shower.

a shower will be tolerable above 80 or so and will be "comfortable" above 90
water-plumbing.png  
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Unread 06-16-2013, 11:10 PM   #10
Gordon-0
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actually, you can get by with a single pump if you use a spring check valve backwards. like so.
water-plumbing.png  
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Unread 06-16-2013, 11:23 PM   #11
Stu Olson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon-0 View Post
who says it has to heat it up in one pass?
me
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Unread 06-16-2013, 11:35 PM   #12
Gordon-0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu Olson

me
Haha
I just figured that multiple passes through the heat exchanger would give better results
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Unread 06-16-2013, 11:50 PM   #13
Stu Olson
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I was just pulling your chain. Multiple passes might be needed, especially if the inlet water is cold and the flow rate is too high.
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Unread 06-17-2013, 01:20 AM   #14
Anticanman
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I have seen a few of these set up through the transmission cooler inlets on the radiator and the general consensus is that you'll have to have the engine off because the water is too hot. Its a popular mod by those that run long trails like the rubicon in this area.
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Unread 06-17-2013, 07:51 PM   #15
Jeep_Tech
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heres an idea seen it done before

Take copper piping and wrap it around a portion of your exhaust about 3ft in lenght with around 18 coils total. the source the pump and source flow at the front of the jeep and the outflow at the rear. jueep running while shower is going and water will be very warm. add or minus coils to increase or decrease temp, and position where when running empty residuale heat isnt an issue for the pump or hoses. mabe use stainless hoses?
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