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Unread 06-10-2010, 05:24 AM   #1
Boundless
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Blower Resistor Replacement 05 LJ

Symptom of a faulty blower resistor is, blower only works on speed "4". I got my replacement resistor for $24.99 from Autozone part # JA1476 AutoZone.com | | Blower Motor Resistor | BLOWER MTR RESISTOR

below is just a guide on how to replace the blower resistor, although maybe not the best way, it's the way I did it.

first to remove glove box, slide out the retaining strap on the right side then lower door till you can pull it off the hinge



Next I removed the interior light just under the glove box (1/4"). This made it easier to remove the resistor. You can use this as a work light or just remove the bulb so you don't get burnt.


Then from above though the glove box opening, I used a 1/4" drive 8MM (5/16) swivel socket with extension and ratchet to remove the top screw (one of two screws holding the resistor), seen just under the brightly colored connector.

Then from below I removed the bottom screw using the same 8MM swivel socket set up.

With both screws removed I just slid the resistor out of its location then pulled the harness downward (why I removed the light) you can now see why it's faulty (burnt)

Now disconnect the resistor plug by first releasing the plug retaining clip, pull the red clip out slightly. (sorry for the blurry pic, camera got fogged up. it was very humid out) first pic shows the red retaining clip in the lock position, the second in the released position


in the below pic you can see the difference between the new (now plugged in) and the old burnt resistor (in my hand).

Here's a pic of the old resistor and the box the new one came in.


Well just reverse the above to install and enjoy your lower blower speeds again.

Note: do not use the blower with the resistor removed (not in it's proper place in the blower's air stream) or you can burn it out.

Disclaimer: some of the pictures were taken during reassembly because of the fogged up camera.

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Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 06-10-2010, 08:48 AM   #2
timberwolf0122
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I have got to sit down an build a better PWM fan controller, why do they even use resistors to control the motor?
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Unread 06-10-2010, 06:29 PM   #3
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timberwolf0122 View Post
I have got to sit down an build a better PWM fan controller, why do they even use resistors to control the motor?
So you can have differnt speeds...
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Unread 06-18-2010, 12:29 AM   #4
explorerlyon
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I am trying the same repair. I cannot get the wiring harness disconnected from the resistor. I have pulled the red lock out. What nest? Is there a catch somewhere? I have pulled and tugged and connot get the harness disconnected. Help!

EDIT: Got if off finally
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Last edited by explorerlyon; 06-18-2010 at 12:44 AM..
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Unread 06-18-2010, 08:58 AM   #5
Boundless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by explorerlyon View Post
I am trying the same repair. I cannot get the wiring harness disconnected from the resistor. I have pulled the red lock out. What nest? Is there a catch somewhere? I have pulled and tugged and connot get the harness disconnected. Help!

EDIT: Got if off finally
Glad to hear you got it off... mine was a little hard to disconnect also . I think the connectors get stuck due to the heat and or condensation.

that's why I found it easiest to pull the resistor out and down with the plug, so I would have more room to hold each part as I separated them.
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Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 06-18-2010, 09:20 AM   #6
2004sahara
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not as easy as some would have you belive......but it is a do it your self job.
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Unread 06-18-2010, 03:33 PM   #7
explorerlyon
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I created a thread on how to test if the resistor is bad before replacing it. Here is the link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bl...6/#post9648090

But, after the work of removing the resistor, I would have replaced in regardless with a new one, even if the old one was not bad.
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Unread 06-18-2010, 04:34 PM   #8
Boundless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by explorerlyon View Post
I created a thread on how to test if the resistor is bad before replacing it. Here is the link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bl...6/#post9648090

But, after the work of removing the resistor, I would have replaced in regardless with a new one, even if the old one was not bad.
nice helpful addition, thanks
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Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 09-19-2010, 09:41 PM   #9
Squwearley
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thanks

Thanks for the step by step... made doing this job really easy
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Unread 09-20-2010, 05:26 AM   #10
Boundless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squwearley View Post
Thanks for the step by step... made doing this job really easy
you're welcome. Glad it was helpful
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Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 09-20-2010, 06:02 AM   #11
HKB3
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Any idea if a bad resistor will throw a check engine light?
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Unread 09-20-2010, 06:59 AM   #12
Neil F.
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The HVAC blower has nothing to do with OBDII emission system monitoring.
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Unread 09-20-2010, 11:14 AM   #13
FireMedic777
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Awesome! Just replaced mine today for about the same price at advanced. Thanks for the good tech thread!
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Unread 10-23-2010, 08:10 AM   #14
StangsAndJeeps
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great guide. never knew i could bend that much.
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Unread 11-16-2010, 08:06 PM   #15
Boston_Wheeler
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Just did this myself. Thanks for the write-up. Definitely difficult to disconnect the harness. Also, one thing I found to be helpful. I secured the new resistor prior to reconnecting the harness. I had more room and found it much easier this way.
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