I'm a bit confused
on this.... I guess a spring lift could still collapse to stock level, but wouldn't a spacer lift make a difference? (2" spacers would allow for a shock that is 2" longer when compressed?). If not, please explain.......I've read a lot of your posts and trust your experience.
2" spacer on top of springs:
if you do not put 2" BS extensions you will overcompress your COIL SPRINGS until coil bind (bump stopping as well
) ... or until shock bottoms out whatever comes first.
1.75" (AKA 2" BB) spacers on top of stock or 2.5" springs does not overcompress the springs as popular belief by many including companies that push the sale of lift springs say they do, I have put them on a bench mounted spring compressor and measured many many different springs just to see how far they can be taken before they coil bind. Using a 2" BB or 2.5" springs allows the use of longer shocks, longer shocks require bumpstop extension due to the longer collapsed length when installed in the factory mounts. We can bumpstop them to the moon with the Best riding, longest travel and most expensive shock on the planet and end up with the worst ride ever know to man.
I mostly use bilstein 7100's for anything non coilover. There are lots of length options.
I rarely use bilsteins however I do like the ride and quality they offer, the reason is how easy they are to damage. All it takes is the slightest ding from a rock flung out of a tire, tire chains/cable/ a run over winch cable, obstacles, most comonly on tj/lj's.... unrelocated rear lower mounts so the shock can clear the spring/spring buckets/exhaust and the piston/valve hangs up on the ding.... most other brand shocks can take a beating to the outer shell and keep on working, bilstein will not.
Now this is a perfectly good but junked shock, my finger is pointing at the ding that has the shock litterally stuck...
Lengths dont really matter. Valving does.
length matters most when the shock is being installed in factory mounting locations
.... Valving always needs to be considered but even a stiff shock will ride decent with a good balance of up/down travel.
Using an OME shock just because of its length is backwards. OME shocks are terrible.
I agree the OME isn't a real good Off Road shock, for a daily driver/weekend warrior, it's one of the better choices IMO.
I'll say it again and again, length is the most important factor for ride quality to obtain balanced up and down travel when used in factory shock mounts
. Droop gets you nowhere when the coils are are rolling down the obstacle you just tried to climb.... Use limiting straps or coil retainers then??? well if you go there with straps/retainers you may as well use the proper length shocks since all that droop the long shock has just won't be used and will ride like a buckboard from bottoming out or banging on the bumpstop extensions.
If someone is into stuff like custom outboarding, the mounts should be built around the shock, not the other way around.
Just my 2 cents
Now that is exactly right...
but most still need to know what shock lengths are available and can be used with specific mounts that can be purchased, very few of us like you and me will take the time to fabricate our own mounts, some aren't long enough for balanced travel and we must keep in mind getting carried away beyond 6-7" down travel with a 4" lift and flat or nearly flat belly skid is gonna destroy the CV joint on the TJ/LJ's running close to the stock wheel base. you end up with an implement CV shaft that you get to stop and grease every 100 miles.