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Unread 04-16-2013, 07:26 AM   #31
Pucknutz69
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ST Paul, Mn
Posts: 33
I purchased a set of cables from these guys.

http://www.custombatterycables.com/

Very satisfied with the workmanship and quality of the product. They are sealed fit great and my winch has never run better.

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Unread 04-16-2013, 08:59 AM   #32
Fairway
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Columbia, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwheelin View Post
The smaller the gauge, the more flexible.
This statement is not always true
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Unread 04-16-2013, 10:03 AM   #33
Wagex
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Newkirk, Oklahoma
Posts: 127
i never thought to upgrade the big 3 to help power my winch and stuff! lol considering my last pickup had 2/0 battery/alternator leads two semi batteries and two alternators.

the biggest thing i can contribute is make sure you use pure copper wiring, the stuff in that pic copper clad aluminum (CCA) its alright knu concepts is a decent brand for CCA they make it thicker to make up for the difference in the capacity of copper. most companies just put a really thick wire surround to make it look larger. had a friend buy some 1/0 that was smaller inside than my 4 gauge. ontop of that it was CCA and got warrrrm as hell under the loads we were running.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 05:24 PM   #34
dragginwagon406
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwheelin View Post
1/0 is not as flexible as 4 gauge. The smaller the gauge, the more flexible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairway View Post
This statement is not always true
x2

Generally, the finer the braid, the more flexible the cable. I suppose you could have some unruly insulation too
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Unread 04-16-2013, 06:00 PM   #35
Bulla
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Welsh, LA
Posts: 30
Before I got a chance to read this thread I had built a set of cables and installed em. Like another said my other vehicle is a diesel and I had most o the supplies. So I made a new set. Here they are.
image-4014881400.jpg   image-2533067853.jpg   image-4113105050.jpg   image-479878923.jpg   image-1294295921.jpg  

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Unread 04-18-2013, 02:03 PM   #36
fourwheelin
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairway View Post

This statement is not always true
True but generally it will be more flexible the smaller(thinner) the gauge of the cable.

Last edited by fourwheelin; 04-18-2013 at 02:42 PM..
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Unread 04-18-2013, 02:26 PM   #37
Stinkbug
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
Posts: 328
I have read a few threads about this topic. I see some wire directly from from the alternator to the battery with a fuse between rather that from the alternator to the pdc as originally from the factory.

Is there an adavantage of the direct to battery method?

Also, I have a 117 amp alternator. Locally I can only find 100amp or 150amp anl fuses. I am using 4 gauge welding wire for the alternator. Will using the 150 amp fuse cause me any trouble?

Last edited by Stinkbug; 04-18-2013 at 02:30 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Unread 04-18-2013, 02:55 PM   #38
5-90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
Thanks for the advice on the winch, however I should have worded my question better. I was inquiring about what gauge to use on the "Big 3".

As far as the alternator grounding wire goes.... Should I assume the 6 gauge is adequate?
Meh.

Once you increase your electrical loading, upping your mains is a good idea - bear in mind that the OEMs are cheap, and use "just enough" wire for the usage they anticipate (which means full alternator output at 25-40% duty cycle.)

Considering what people like us tend to do with our vehicle, I will typically assume 100%dc @ 100% output, with pessimistic assumptions for operating conditions. It's a bad habit I've picked up from dealing with too much OEM equipment failure.

Once you've upped the engine block ground, the supplemental ground to the alternator case can probably stay 6AWG - it's not very common that I get requests for replacement (and everyone seems to want to run it somewhere different, so I don't have a hard figure on how long that should be. However, it seems to be most common that it gets run to the stud where the block main ground goes - I should have kept that one.)
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