post #31 of Old 04-16-2013, 07:26 AM
Pucknutz69
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I purchased a set of cables from these guys.

http://www.custombatterycables.com/

Very satisfied with the workmanship and quality of the product. They are sealed fit great and my winch has never run better.

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post #32 of Old 04-16-2013, 08:59 AM
Fairway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwheelin View Post
The smaller the gauge, the more flexible.
This statement is not always true
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post #33 of Old 04-16-2013, 10:03 AM
Wagex
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i never thought to upgrade the big 3 to help power my winch and stuff! lol considering my last pickup had 2/0 battery/alternator leads two semi batteries and two alternators.

the biggest thing i can contribute is make sure you use pure copper wiring, the stuff in that pic copper clad aluminum (CCA) its alright knu concepts is a decent brand for CCA they make it thicker to make up for the difference in the capacity of copper. most companies just put a really thick wire surround to make it look larger. had a friend buy some 1/0 that was smaller inside than my 4 gauge. ontop of that it was CCA and got warrrrm as hell under the loads we were running.
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post #34 of Old 04-16-2013, 05:24 PM
dragginwagon406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwheelin View Post
1/0 is not as flexible as 4 gauge. The smaller the gauge, the more flexible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairway View Post
This statement is not always true
x2

Generally, the finer the braid, the more flexible the cable. I suppose you could have some unruly insulation too
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post #35 of Old 04-16-2013, 06:00 PM
Bulla
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Before I got a chance to read this thread I had built a set of cables and installed em. Like another said my other vehicle is a diesel and I had most o the supplies. So I made a new set. Here they are.
Attached Thumbnails
image-4014881400.jpg   image-2533067853.jpg   image-4113105050.jpg   image-479878923.jpg   image-1294295921.jpg  

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post #36 of Old 04-18-2013, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
fourwheelin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairway View Post

This statement is not always true
True but generally it will be more flexible the smaller(thinner) the gauge of the cable.

Last edited by fourwheelin; 04-18-2013 at 02:42 PM.
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post #37 of Old 04-18-2013, 02:26 PM
Stinkbug
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I have read a few threads about this topic. I see some wire directly from from the alternator to the battery with a fuse between rather that from the alternator to the pdc as originally from the factory.

Is there an adavantage of the direct to battery method?

Also, I have a 117 amp alternator. Locally I can only find 100amp or 150amp anl fuses. I am using 4 gauge welding wire for the alternator. Will using the 150 amp fuse cause me any trouble?

Last edited by Stinkbug; 04-18-2013 at 02:30 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #38 of Old 04-18-2013, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
Thanks for the advice on the winch, however I should have worded my question better. I was inquiring about what gauge to use on the "Big 3".

As far as the alternator grounding wire goes.... Should I assume the 6 gauge is adequate?
Meh.

Once you increase your electrical loading, upping your mains is a good idea - bear in mind that the OEMs are cheap, and use "just enough" wire for the usage they anticipate (which means full alternator output at 25-40% duty cycle.)

Considering what people like us tend to do with our vehicle, I will typically assume 100%dc @ 100% output, with pessimistic assumptions for operating conditions. It's a bad habit I've picked up from dealing with too much OEM equipment failure.

Once you've upped the engine block ground, the supplemental ground to the alternator case can probably stay 6AWG - it's not very common that I get requests for replacement (and everyone seems to want to run it somewhere different, so I don't have a hard figure on how long that should be. However, it seems to be most common that it gets run to the stud where the block main ground goes - I should have kept that one.)

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post #39 of Old 09-29-2014, 12:27 PM
raif281
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nice thread an link
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post #40 of Old 09-29-2014, 12:48 PM
Ironhead
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the same problem that i've always seen still exists and no one has answered it

an 8 awg fusible link is necessary when upgrading to 4 awg wire. it is hard to find and not available in short lengths. but it is available.

the big problem, how do you connect an 8 awg cable and a 4 awg cable? i've searched for days and never found a coupler. even called several electrical suppliers. i dont think its a good idea to solder a fusible link, so thats out. how are people protecting their systems after doing the big 3?
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post #41 of Old 09-29-2014, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
fourwheelin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
the same problem that i've always seen still exists and no one has answered it

an 8 awg fusible link is necessary when upgrading to 4 awg wire. it is hard to find and not available in short lengths. but it is available.

the big problem, how do you connect an 8 awg cable and a 4 awg cable? i've searched for days and never found a coupler. even called several electrical suppliers. i dont think its a good idea to solder a fusible link, so thats out. how are people protecting their systems after doing the big 3?
I not following. What connection is this referring to? 'cause I replaced all my cables with the same gauge. I didn't have a need to couple diff sizes.
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post #42 of Old 09-29-2014, 02:52 PM
Ironhead
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is the write up yours? the linked write up that is?

in that write up, the fusible link between the alt and the PDC was removed and not replaced. that leaves your vehicles wiring system unprotected from an alternator surge.

IIRC, oem used a 6 awg cable and a 10 awg fusible link. those couplers are readily available.
general rule of thumb for a fusible link is to be sized 4 numbers larger than the wire its protecting, so a 4awg would need an 8 awg fusible link. that coupler is the only thing i havent been able to find

here is the oem wiring diagram from the FSM

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post #43 of Old 09-29-2014, 03:09 PM
aparke4
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I got some bad *** 2 gauge cables built by a member here- fuse link and heat shrinked crimped and soldered ends.
I'll post pics of link- looks like custom car audio unit.
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post #44 of Old 09-29-2014, 04:24 PM
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
the same problem that i've always seen still exists and no one has answered it

an 8 awg fusible link is necessary when upgrading to 4 awg wire. it is hard to find and not available in short lengths. but it is available.

the big problem, how do you connect an 8 awg cable and a 4 awg cable? i've searched for days and never found a coupler. even called several electrical suppliers. i dont think its a good idea to solder a fusible link, so thats out. how are people protecting their systems after doing the big 3?
The easiest way is to locate a step down non insulated butt connector or, use a 4 gauge and then sleeve it with half of a 8 gauge butt connector.

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post #45 of Old 09-29-2014, 11:33 PM
Icarus
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I went right over kill with mine and had Jeepersandcreepers make 2/0g cables for my mains (positive/starter/aux panel, negative/grounds to fw and block) and 4g for the PDC and alt. I ran 2/0g to the other side to my BlueSea SafteyHub 150 as well and run all my accessories, amps etc are off it. Been great so far, and I replaced my battery from these pics with a NorthStar copy AGM one.




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