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Unread 03-21-2013, 12:07 AM   #16
Stinkbug
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I am just starting to learn about fusible links thanks to Knucklehead. I notice that this setup does not use one.

Is one always necessary between the alternator and PDC? If not always necessary what thoughts go into deciding whether to use one or not?


Last edited by Stinkbug; 03-21-2013 at 08:17 AM.. Reason: spelling - originally posted using tablet...
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Unread 03-21-2013, 12:50 AM   #17
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Google it and start reading, here's one link...

http://www.ask.com/web?q=fusible+lin...9&o=4735&l=dir
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Unread 03-21-2013, 04:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
I am just strating to learn about fusible links thankes to Knucklehead. I notice that this setup does not use one.

Is one always necessary between the alternator and PDC? If not alwats necessary what thoughs go into deciding whether to use one ot not?
Every vehicle I've worked on, made 1955 or later, has had some variety of fuse element in that circuit. Fusible link, PAL fuse, MAXI fuse, MEGA fuse - whatever. Doesn't matter, it was there.

Considering it's always been there, I think it safe to say it should always be there. Format doesn't matter, as long as it can pass full alternator current when necessary (typically 95-110% of listed max rating,) and can be replaced (10AWG fusible link wire is a bear to find - ANL and MEGA fuses are easier.)

RULE OF THUMB: Never eliminate an OEM safety or protection device - like a fuse. If the engineers won an argument with the beancounters, we have to assume they had a good reason to do so...
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Unread 03-21-2013, 06:38 AM   #19
geiman
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I also use tinned copper boat cable and wire for the vast majority of my wiring.
Funny you mention that, saw someone else mention that and was looking at picking some up. Do you have a good online supplier? Or do you get it locally?
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Unread 03-21-2013, 08:08 AM   #20
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Funny you mention that, saw someone else mention that and was looking at picking some up. Do you have a good online supplier? Or do you get it locally?
I found it reasonably priced and good service from Genuinedealz.com

http://genuinedealz.com/

He also has the braided expandable sleeving for wiring in small quantities at decent pricing.
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Unread 03-21-2013, 08:12 AM   #21
geiman
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I found it reasonably priced and good service from Genuinedealz.com

http://genuinedealz.com/

He also has the braided expandable sleeving for wiring in small quantities at decent pricing.
Definitely reasonably priced, thank you. He has the anderson style plugs as well, very handy.
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Unread 03-21-2013, 08:56 AM   #22
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Other than the alternator to PDC, are there other fusible links in the big 3 upgrade that I should be aware of? Any thing in the smaller wire (not battery cable) that connects to the starter?
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Unread 03-21-2013, 09:08 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
Other than the alternator to PDC, are there other fusible links in the big 3 upgrade that I should be aware of? Any thing in the smaller wire (not battery cable) that connects to the starter?
No. Everything else is fed by the battery, and a battery can't overdrive a system, it's only going to provide what it wants (as long as the voltage is right.) The alternator can swing to a forced high output, which is why it's fused.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 10:27 PM   #24
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Just a couple more questions....

1. I have a winch and a few halogen offroad lights, what gauge wire is sufficient? I may upgrade to a Dakota alternator in the future if I add enough electrical accessories to warrant it. I believe the one that fits my 1997 TJ is a 136 amp model.

2. I think the alternator must be somehow grounded, but I never see anyone recommending upgrading it. Is there a reason?

Thanks for any help.
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Unread 04-14-2013, 10:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
Just a couple more questions....
1. I have a winch and a few halogen offroad lights, what gauge wire is sufficient? I may upgrade to a Dakota alternator in the future if I add enough electrical accessories to warrant it. I believe the one that fits my 1997 TJ is a 136 amp model.
#2 welding wire should work for the winch. Run the ground and positive wires directly to the battery terminals.
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Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
2. I think the alternator must be somehow grounded, but I never see anyone recommending upgrading it. Is there a reason?
The OEM alternator ground wire size is 6 gauge...
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Unread 04-14-2013, 11:48 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
#2 welding wire should work for the winch. Run the ground and positive wires directly to the battery terminals.

The OEM alternator ground wire size is 6 gauge...
Thanks for the advice on the winch, however I should have worded my question better. I was inquiring about what gauge to use on the "Big 3".

As far as the alternator grounding wire goes.... Should I assume the 6 gauge is adequate?
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Unread 04-15-2013, 12:36 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
Thanks for the advice on the winch, however I should have worded my question better. I was inquiring about what gauge to use on the "Big 3".
OEM is 6 gauge and should work well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
As far as the alternator grounding wire goes.... Should I assume the 6 gauge is adequate?
Yes... IMO
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Unread 04-15-2013, 06:58 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I don't solder anything electrical for the most part. I have a swaging tool for cable size terminals and enough crimpers for the rest to make your eyes water if you had to buy them all at once.

The bad part of that is I'm considering moving away from Weatherpak and going to Deutsche and not looking forward to that learning curve or the tool buying curve.
I don't play with the weather pack too much but our OEM has been using Deutsch terminals for the last 8 years. We use the DT series:

http://www.laddinc.com/images/storie...ch_Catalog.pdf

One of the biggest advantages to the Deutsch terminals is the crimping and speed/simplicity of connections.

Here is the tool we have found to work the best:

http://www.amazon.com/HDT-48-00-Deut.../dp/B0075P88IY

You can find them cheaper if you are patient, pick up/make an extra stopper for the tool ahead of time, you won't regret it.

Grease up the connections well and route properly; water can still ingress if you are tugging on the wires and the plug is downhill.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 08:59 PM   #29
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It is my intention to replace my battery cable clamps. I have decided to build my own cables. I plan on replacing the battery to engine block ground, battery to tub ground, battery to starter, as well as the alternator to PDC wire.

I purchased everything I need to replace the cable with 4 gauge welding cable.

I stumbled across just enough 1/0 welding cable to do the job with the exception of the alternator to PDC.

As of now my electrical loads are not overly large. I have a winch, a few halogen off-road lights, CB, and that is about it.

My question is will there be any advantage to using the 1/0 over the 4 Gauge?

Last edited by Stinkbug; 04-15-2013 at 10:21 PM.. Reason: clarity
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Unread 04-16-2013, 07:20 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinkbug View Post
It is my intention to replace my battery cable clamps. I have decided to build my own cables. I plan on replacing the battery to engine block ground, battery to tub ground, battery to starter, as well as the alternator to PDC wire.

I purchased everything I need to replace the cable with 4 gauge welding cable.

I stumbled across just enough 1/0 welding cable to do the job with the exception of the alternator to PDC.

As of now my electrical loads are not overly large. I have a winch, a few halogen off-road lights, CB, and that is about it.

My question is will there be any advantage to using the 1/0 over the 4 Gauge?
Two things come to mind when debating which cable gauge to use: (1) the amperage - specs of the wiring in relation to what the device load(s) will be on the cable; (2) installation of the cable it self - 1/0 is not as flexible as 4 gauge. The smaller the gauge, the more flexible.

But, more important is the amperage the cable will run w/o causing a problem.
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