post #46 of Old 02-11-2014, 08:14 AM
ctorres018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
Driver stupidty can ruin even the best parts.
I agree, but no matter how you drive a stock part will break before most top notch upgrades every single time.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/light-sleeper-2-0-a-1800073/
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post #47 of Old 02-11-2014, 08:33 AM
Ross
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Originally Posted by ctorres018 View Post
I agree, but no matter how you drive a stock part will break before most top notch upgrades every single time.
Not sure I agree with that. My Jeep has around 90k miles on it. I have had three drive shaft that have all seen some rough stuff. The first one was stock. I replaced it when I did my belly up with a Currie rear shaft. The stock one I took off had about 40k miles and was in perfect shape. I replaced it with a Currie shaft and it failed about 25K miles later. I then got a JE Reel drive shaft and had to rebuild the centering ball at about another 30k miles. I don't hear allot about stock rear drive shaft failing on TJs and other than angry sparrows I don't hear many issues about stock front drive shafts.

As far as arms, I hear more about mounts failing with aftermarket arms then stock arms and stock mounts failing.


I will agree that some aftermarket components can perform better but not always last longer.
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post #48 of Old 02-11-2014, 09:41 AM
ctorres018
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Originally Posted by Ross View Post
Not sure I agree with that. My Jeep has around 90k miles on it. I have had three drive shaft that have all seen some rough stuff. The first one was stock. I replaced it when I did my belly up with a Currie rear shaft. The stock one I took off had about 40k miles and was in perfect shape. I replaced it with a Currie shaft and it failed about 25K miles later. I then got a JE Reel drive shaft and had to rebuild the centering ball at about another 30k miles. I don't hear allot about stock rear drive shaft failing on TJs and other than angry sparrows I don't hear many issues about stock front drive shafts.

As far as arms, I hear more about mounts failing with aftermarket arms then stock arms and stock mounts failing.


I will agree that some aftermarket components can perform better but not always last longer.
I think you'll here more about aftermarket arms mounts failing more due to when you get aftermarket parts, it's purpose is to use them and beat on them more. Maybe it's just be but if I have vulnerable stock parts I won't beat on them or trust them as much.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/light-sleeper-2-0-a-1800073/
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post #49 of Old 02-11-2014, 11:54 AM
Ross
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Originally Posted by ctorres018 View Post
I think you'll here more about aftermarket arms mounts failing more due to when you get aftermarket parts, it's purpose is to use them and beat on them more. Maybe it's just be but if I have vulnerable stock parts I won't beat on them or trust them as much.
You do make a good point however it is usually the more modified rigs that issues, and not always on the trail. This also has allot to do with mans’ desire to improve things. For me, if it aint broke don't fix it.

I have never been held up on a trail because of a suspension failure other than a highly modified rig loosing its spring. The most common failures I have encountered are u-joints, steering, axles and tires.

There is nothing wrong with modifying the hell out your Jeep if you want and have the money BUT if you are on a budget my suggestion would be spend less on your suspension and more in other areas.
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post #50 of Old 02-11-2014, 12:06 PM
wyo99
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Originally Posted by jrwilliams
well for just the body lift and suspension lift i could spend around 500, is that reasonable?
Get the bds 2 inch spring lift itll cost you around 375 depending where you buy it from. I have it on my 06 and has good flex and maintains a good dd ride. Also fairly easy to install.
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post #51 of Old 02-15-2014, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
jrwilliams
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Originally Posted by TheBoogieman View Post
2.25" BB spacers,shocks and a 1" BL on 33's.NOTHING else was done.BB and BL cost $350.

This is damn near exactly what I'm looking for. where did you buy the BB spacers and shocks?
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post #52 of Old 02-15-2014, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jrwilliams View Post
This is damn near exactly what I'm looking for. where did you buy the BB spacers and shocks?
Ebay has the 2.25" spacers and Skyjacker hydro shocks.Zone sells a 2" BB and their hydro shocks ride better.XTRyan on here is a vendor.
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post #53 of Old 02-15-2014, 11:46 AM
Gary2
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didn't I read some place that the later 97-01 XJ front springs would give a TJ 2" lift. The springs are taller than a TJ IIRC. If so you can probably get a pair for less than the cost of spacers or even go for a cheap set of replacements. It would be more beneficial to use springs over spacers and ride better if they are the same spring rate.
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post #54 of Old 02-15-2014, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary2 View Post
didn't I read some place that the later XJ front springs would give a TJ 2" lift. If so you can probably get a pair for less than the cost of spacers. It would be more beneficial to use springs too.
ZJ springs are usually used.Keep in mind that they're old and saggy by now.Even the newest XJ springs are 13 years old.Old springs are like old breasts......they just don't hold up very well over time unless they've been replaced.
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post #55 of Old 02-15-2014, 12:09 PM
tyvanwie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary2
didn't I read some place that the later XJ front springs would give a TJ 2" lift. If so you can probably get a pair for less than the cost of spacers. It would be more beneficial to use springs too.
I'm not sure about that. Did they have a higher spring rate in the later years?

I don't even own a jeep anymore
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post #56 of Old 02-15-2014, 12:40 PM
FlakJacket
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My V8 ZJ springs netted me about 1.75" after they settled in ($35 from a forum member IIRC), added some bump-stops, a rear 1.75" BB, and scored a 1.25" BL and MML on Craigslist ($150 for both), runs 33x12.50s no problem. However, I have the 2.5L; I'm not sure how much lift out of those ZJ springs you'd get with an I6. I'm a big fan of the ZJ springs, my ride improved over the stock spring/BB combo, and the front doesn't take a nose-dive every time you break or slow down.

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post #57 of Old 02-17-2014, 03:45 AM
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I agree with the others, there's a great big cost difference between running 33s vs 35s. Just my 2cents that 245s (~30.7") fit on an unlifted TJ, so 1"-1.25" body lift should allow you to fit 33"x10.5" KM2s. With factory wheels and swaybar, you'll need 1.25" wheel spacers to obtain front swaybar clearance. The body lift and spacers get OP almost halfway to the $500 budget.

If you do any suspension lift at all, you'll feel it in the steering and the driveline. Nevertheless, a spring rate upgrade will allow you to go faster off road and have more fun. If you're on a budget, then the greatest spring rate upgrade you can get for the least detrimental lift (~1") is Moog ZJ spring (cc-782) up front, and Moog 4Runner spring (cc-255) out back. These springs have higher posted spring rates than do most lift kits, so you get the off-road fun without the big lift (so you avoid all the other expenditures).

The springs that I recommend are dual-rate springs, meaning they have a soft spring frequency at ride height. The springs are, coincidentally, balanced on the freeway, so there's no detriment to your ride quality, but firm Bilstein 5100 shocks are a good match for these springs. With their "no-lift" 5100 shocks, you'll need to extend the rear bumpstops by 3/4". If you don't trust me on the springs, then H&R sells progressive springs that similarly upgrade your on-road and off-road performance with minimal lift.
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post #58 of Old 02-21-2014, 11:05 AM
448661
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I just put a rough country 3.25 lift for my 06 with inline 6. I netted more than the 3.25"'s of lift. It was $369 and rides fine. I get very little vibe and I did not install the tc drop
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