Bell housing rubbing tub after TT, MML and BL - JeepForum.com
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
b00mb00m
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Snoho Co. WA
Posts: 243
I am getting super close to finishing this build so it's a bummer when issues pop up at the end. I did a 1.25" body lift, 1" MML torsion rubber style (with block brackets), Novak cable shifter and high clearance UCF TT and have had a rattling vibration. I assumed it was the exhaust since I could see the cat was touching the tub. Today I got new exhaust and the rattling didn't go away... So i crawled under and began inspecting near the transmission and the top dead center of the bell housing is hitting the tub. I have tried to squeeze a screw driver in there and push sheet metal but it's really difficult to get any leverage. Has anyone else had this issue? No one mentioned it as a common problem. I have the "extra clearance" UCF (not ultra high) which sits like 2" below the frame Rail. I wasn't expecting the 42rle to contact since everyone only talks about the TC clearance.

What are my options?
1. I could potentially drill holes from inside and use a slide hammer to clearance?
2. I could add a few washers between skid plate and frame rail (should be able to get away with less than 1/2") and this is what I'm leaning toward trying.
3. I also installed a day star poly trans mount when I did the rest. Should I maybe go back to a rubber trans mount? I could try the lo-pro trans mount but I would definitely have to clearance skid plate to make that work...

Any other ideas? Would you be worried about driving it in the mean time with the contact (I'm not but should I be?)

b00mb00m is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 05:25 AM
NotURMailman
Web Wheeler
 
NotURMailman's Avatar
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: 'Round Here
Posts: 7,803
I would try going back to an OE style rubber replacement trans mount before I did anything to sacrifice any of the clearance that you just did all of that work to get.
I don't know if that will help, but I always recommend rubber mounts rather than poly.
Hopefully someone who has experienced this and fixed it will chime in.
I don't remember ever hearing about this before.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
equipped... And loving it!

I drive on the right side, what's wrong with you?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Deacon View Post
It's difficult to take you seriously. It's like you're an easily perturbed autistic teenager who's drunk typing the whole time.
NotURMailman is offline  
post #3 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 06:09 AM
biffgnar
Moderator
 
biffgnar's Avatar
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 23,037
I think coming from the inside is tough because I believe the tub is two layers there. You need to dimple the tub from the bottom to create clearance.
biffgnar is offline  
 
post #4 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 06:23 AM
jjvw
Web Wheeler
 
jjvw's Avatar
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 4,834
Garage
If possible, lowering the trans mount will always be good for the rear drive line. After that, dimpling the tub will be the way to go. You will most likely need to drop the skid plate and lower the transmission down in order to reach up in there.

2003 Rubicon

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
jjvw is offline  
post #5 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 06:50 AM
JEK3
Web Wheeler
 
JEK3's Avatar
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fredericksburg
Posts: 2,990
You can try putting a jack under the skid, loosen and lower it a few inches, put something in the tight spot (a socket is commonly used), and jack the skid back up so the item you inserted pushes the body up at that point. Lower it again, remove the item, and reinstall the skid.
JEK3 is offline  
post #6 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 07:04 AM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 31,641
Quote:
Originally Posted by b00mb00m View Post
I am getting super close to finishing this build so it's a bummer when issues pop up at the end. I did a 1.25" body lift, 1" MML torsion rubber style (with block brackets), Novak cable shifter and high clearance UCF TT and have had a rattling vibration. I assumed it was the exhaust since I could see the cat was touching the tub. Today I got new exhaust and the rattling didn't go away... So i crawled under and began inspecting near the transmission and the top dead center of the bell housing is hitting the tub. I have tried to squeeze a screw driver in there and push sheet metal but it's really difficult to get any leverage. Has anyone else had this issue? No one mentioned it as a common problem. I have the "extra clearance" UCF (not ultra high) which sits like 2" below the frame Rail. I wasn't expecting the 42rle to contact since everyone only talks about the TC clearance.

What are my options?
1. I could potentially drill holes from inside and use a slide hammer to clearance?
2. I could add a few washers between skid plate and frame rail (should be able to get away with less than 1/2") and this is what I'm leaning toward trying.
3. I also installed a day star poly trans mount when I did the rest. Should I maybe go back to a rubber trans mount? I could try the lo-pro trans mount but I would definitely have to clearance skid plate to make that work...

Any other ideas? Would you be worried about driving it in the mean time with the contact (I'm not but should I be?)
Where exactly is it touching?

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
post #7 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
b00mb00m
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Snoho Co. WA
Posts: 243
Im going to describe the location It touches by feel since I'm not able to see it exactly. There appears to be a rib that runs longitudinally on the bell housing and at the point that a couple of the ribs come together a few inches back from where it joins the motor, this point hits against the tunnel. It appears to be an issue with the motor trans is too far aft with respect to the body.
b00mb00m is offline  
post #8 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
b00mb00m
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Snoho Co. WA
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
You can try putting a jack under the skid, loosen and lower it a few inches, put something in the tight spot (a socket is commonly used), and jack the skid back up so the item you inserted pushes the body up at that point. Lower it again, remove the item, and reinstall the skid.
I like this idea. Because of the MML lowering the skid doesn't gain much clearance in this location, but I will see if I can get something wedged I. There.
b00mb00m is offline  
post #9 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
b00mb00m
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Snoho Co. WA
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotURMailman View Post
I would try going back to an OE style rubber replacement trans mount before I did anything to sacrifice any of the clearance that you just did all of that work to get.
I don't know if that will help, but I always recommend rubber mounts rather than poly.
Hopefully someone who has experienced this and fixed it will chime in.
I don't remember ever hearing about this before.
It doesn't make sense to me either how I ended up here. I assume it wasn't hitting before and I did a larger body lift than MML. I was thinking maybe they sent me the wrong skid plate?? Here's a picture of the skid:
Attached Thumbnails
image_1501163400011.jpg  
b00mb00m is offline  
post #10 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 07:57 AM
mrblaine
Wizard of Brakes
 
mrblaine's Avatar
1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quail Valley
Posts: 31,641
Quote:
Originally Posted by b00mb00m View Post
Im going to describe the location It touches by feel since I'm not able to see it exactly. There appears to be a rib that runs longitudinally on the bell housing and at the point that a couple of the ribs come together a few inches back from where it joins the motor, this point hits against the tunnel. It appears to be an issue with the motor trans is too far aft with respect to the body.
You need to get a decent idea of how the BH is shaped where it touches and the shape of the tub in that area. It could very well be that you will make it worse by lowering the trans instead of raising it. Lowering the trans will move the back of the motor towards the front of the tub so you need an idea of what can happen especially if the top of the tunnel is sloped at the area where it touches the BH.

I am Savvy
blackmagicbrakes.com
Knowledge does not equal understanding.
mrblaine is offline  
post #11 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 08:15 AM
Alaska-HWY JK
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Dawson Creek BC Canada
Posts: 710
I have the UCF UHC. With LoPro mount. 42RLE and 241 transfer case. Very tight. 1.25 BL and 1" MML. Some vibes at idle. Watch your wire loom for the O2 sensors, I pinched mine and didn't notice till it started throwing codes. It was a pain to get at and fix.
Alaska-HWY JK is offline  
post #12 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
b00mb00m
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Snoho Co. WA
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
I think coming from the inside is tough because I believe the tub is two layers there. You need to dimple the tub from the bottom to create clearance.
I'm hearing the phrase dimpling the tub, do you mean using the method as deceived above with a socket or how I was trying to move some metal with a long screwdriver or what other method?
b00mb00m is offline  
post #13 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 08:39 AM
biffgnar
Moderator
 
biffgnar's Avatar
2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 23,037
Quote:
Originally Posted by b00mb00m View Post
I'm hearing the phrase dimpling the tub, do you mean using the method as deceived above with a socket or how I was trying to move some metal with a long screwdriver or what other method?
The socket probably the easiest since it is hard to get access/leverage to the space to do anything else.
biffgnar is offline  
post #14 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
b00mb00m
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Snoho Co. WA
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by b00mb00m View Post
Im going to describe the location It touches by feel since I'm not able to see it exactly. There appears to be a rib that runs longitudinally on the bell housing and at the point that a couple of the ribs come together a few inches back from where it joins the motor, this point hits against the tunnel. It appears to be an issue with the motor trans is too far aft with respect to the body.
You need to get a decent idea of how the BH is shaped where it touches and the shape of the tub in that area. It could very well be that you will make it worse by lowering the trans instead of raising it. Lowering the trans will move the back of the motor towards the front of the tub so you need an idea of what can happen especially if the top of the tunnel is sloped at the area where it touches the BH.
Here is the location (circled). I see what you're saying And I think you may be right lowering tranny mount end doesn't really help, just might shift the contact point.
Attached Thumbnails
image_1501166754896.jpg  
b00mb00m is offline  
post #15 of 41 Old 07-27-2017, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
b00mb00m
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Snoho Co. WA
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK View Post
I have the UCF UHC. With LoPro mount. 42RLE and 241 transfer case. Very tight. 1.25 BL and 1" MML. Some vibes at idle. Watch your wire loom for the O2 sensors, I pinched mine and didn't notice till it started throwing codes. It was a pain to get at and fix.
I didn't see any pinching of the wiring but it's probably close. I think the transmission dipstick tube may also be touching. What I did find was my transfer case breather tube was pinched, glad I caught that before blowing seals.
b00mb00m is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome