Bad Throw Out bearing - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-25-2011, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
98_classic
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Bad Throw Out bearing

I'm pretty sure my TO bearing is bad. With the clutch in the trans is making a pretty constant chatter noise that gets louder if I rev the motor (again with the clutch pressed in). When I let the clutch out the noise goes away.

So I'm pretty sure I need to replace the TO bearing, right?

How long can I drive on this bad one? It's pretty loud, I had a passenger even ask me if that 'noise' was normal.


I should just replace the whole clutch right? It would be silly to do all the work and not do it.

The jeep is a 99 4.0L AX15 with only 60k on it. Bummer it went bad with such low mileage.


98 XJ classic - 3" rustys springs, 2" tnt shackle and spacer, RK 3 link longarms, 33 x 12.5 BFG MT's, buncha other stuff. Totaled, will be missed

99 TJ Sahara - 3" FT economy lift, JKS disco's, 33 x 12.50 BFG MT's on silver D-windows, 1" BL/MML, smittybilt tire carrier
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post #2 of 8 Old 03-25-2011, 09:13 PM
jbach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98_classic View Post

I should just replace the whole clutch right? It would be silly to do all the work and not do it.
yeap, replace the clutch, TO bearing, pilot bearing and have your flywheel resurfaced.
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-25-2011, 09:30 PM
freeskier93
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Yep, replace the clutch, it could be a lot worse if the TO grenades. Also don't resurface the flywheel. Either scuff it up with sandpaper or replace it because the stock flywheel is concave (convex?).
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-26-2011, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
98_classic
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How long should I let it go? I'm driving a 400 mile round trip on sun/mon and now I'm really concerned about it. I can replace it next week. But I can NOT afford to have a problem on this trip.

98 XJ classic - 3" rustys springs, 2" tnt shackle and spacer, RK 3 link longarms, 33 x 12.5 BFG MT's, buncha other stuff. Totaled, will be missed

99 TJ Sahara - 3" FT economy lift, JKS disco's, 33 x 12.50 BFG MT's on silver D-windows, 1" BL/MML, smittybilt tire carrier
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-26-2011, 09:54 AM
DerekXJ
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just did this job. do NOT resurface your flywheel as a previous poster mentioned. This is a typical thing to do on most vehicles, not the Jeep however. I got my flywheel for about 70 bucks from autozone and feels great matched with the LUK clutch kid that i bought from pep boys for about 150. make sure you get a luk clutch its an OEM replacement. Theres tons of great info on here about clutch changes. I just did mine a month or so ago and am quite happy with the result.
Also, Be careful with those top two inverted torque bolts on the bellhousing. I had to break out the angle grinder to finish getting them out and thats something you do NOT want to have to deal with! Good Luck!
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-26-2011, 09:59 AM
freeskier93
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If you want to do it yourself: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ne...iteup-1146529/

Like said above, if you do it yourself, get the proper external torx for the bell housing! You will thank yourself later. I can't remember what size, but I list it in my write up I linked to.
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-26-2011, 10:19 PM
jbach
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sorry for the incorrect advice. follow the fsm. i had mine resurfaced with no ill effects thus far. i'm not sure if the machine shop was able to resurface it concavely or not. i'd like to see a tj flywheel with a straight edge on it out of curiosity now. sorry again, hate to spead incorrrect information.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-16-2014, 05:05 PM
stwilson74
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Yep, what Jerry and others said 100%, Centerforce makes their money when the RPM's are high enough for their fancy weights to apply force blah blah blah, with Jeeps and an inline 6 engine that just doesn't apply. Plus, why are you buying a new flywheel or spending money on a resurface? The FSM says to lightly sand the surface of the flywheel which is pretty much free, I don't see a conspiracy by Jeep to fool the simpletons into buying unnecessary flywheels... go read the FSM and take your meds. OP, as has been said, lightly sand the surface of the flywheel unless you see real damage such as cracks and then replace the TO bearing, clutch, and pilot bearing. The standard Luk kit includes all of that plus the alignment tool for around $150. I didn't have the proper socket for the top two bell housing bolts but I used (I think) a 3/8 six point socket with no issue. A proper transmission jack is also a huge help for this job. Ratcheting wrenches help also, there are several bolts and nuts you can't get at with a socket but are long enough and fine enough thread that using a box wrench takes forever.

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