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Unread 07-15-2010, 07:18 PM   #16
LMoscar45
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I don't know if I would say harmful, but most would agree that if a trans has issues new fluid will likely be the end of it. This is mostly because the old fluid has a ton of loose clutch material floating around in it acting as a band aid for the weakened clutches. Power flushing old fluid can create an environment that allows material to clog valve bodies. I know things have changed but this is the explanation I got years ago from a transmission builder that had been doing it longer than I'd been alive.

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Unread 07-15-2010, 08:11 PM   #17
Knuckelhead
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Just change the fluid (using the internal pump method) and filter. Adjust the bands per the OEM FSM. Then think about adding an external filter and cooler.


An add-on cooler in front of the engine radiator is a very good idea. New transmission fluid does not contribute to failure...
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Unread 07-15-2010, 08:39 PM   #18
TheRover
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So, it looks like this is the general consensus:
-Power flushing is bad. It can clog valve bodies and just basically screw up the whole transmission.
-Using the transmission's own pump, it is possible to replace the fluid yourself, and that's the preferred method.
-If you take some of the fluid and it's red, there's most likely no problem with the transmission, and replacing the fluid will most likely not cause any problems.
-If the fluid is brown and burnt, the fluid is messed up, and your tranny most likely is too. Do NOT replace the fluid because it runs the risk of ruining your transmission. So what am I supposed to do?
-The transmission "dies" because "the old fluid has a ton of loose clutch material floating around in it acting as a band aid for the weakened clutches."
-The new fluid isn't really causing damage, it's just exposing the damage to the transmission that's already there.

There might be a few more things i'm not mentioning.

Now, what i'm worried about, is the fluid that's in there causing the tranny to die. Do I need to go easy on it? My dad told me that he took some out a while back and it was burnt and brown. I mean, if i go out wheeling, is the old fluid going to cause damage from having less lubrication or...whatever the fluid does exactly?


Also, I'm curious about this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by g4x4xgeoff View Post
what about draining say 1/3...filling it 1/3 with new so theres some new fluid in it rather than the burned up?
Would the transmission adjust over time? I'm not exactly sure what's happening in the transmission. I looked up how auto tranny's work, and it was too confusing. I understand some of it now, but there's just a ton of information to process and understand.

Would it be worth it to add a transmission temp gauge? or is that probably not a big deal? I've only really been wheeling three or four times (not lack of interest, more like lack of places to go).



thanks for all the help
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Unread 07-15-2010, 08:55 PM   #19
LMoscar45
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If the fluid smells burnt then the additives (friction, wear, and heat protectors that were added are gone and the fluid is no longer doing what it was engineered to do.

Here's a good compromise if you're that worried:

You could drop the pan, change the filter and gasket (noone in their right mind will argue a new trans filter is a bad idea regardless of the life of the fluid). Replace the small amount of fluid you'll lose, and add a bottle of lubegard red which will replace the additives the burnt fluid no longer has. I don't think anyone on either side of the debate would have a problem with that.


There are going to be arguments for either side of the fence in an issue like this. Even though I earlier stated the comment about the band air effect,
I personally opt to take my risks and swap it all out if it is not slipping.

I do not suggest this at all but in the past I've done something really crazy and added a small amount of acetone to make sure and varnish is removed from the valve bodies while stalling the converter for a few seconds.......but don't do that since most people will say you could set fire to the whole shebang and they're right.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 09:21 PM   #20
sduncan
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Ok....look at it this way. You current fluid is brown and burnt. This means that the trans is likely on its last leg anyway. So keep the burnt fluid in it circulating bits and pieces of debris and continue to wear it out quicker than fresh fluid would. Or..flush it out using the DIY method and hope for the best. At least its getting the best lubrication and may go for several thousand miles. Irregardless, you've got a sick trans that I wouldn't personally trust, especially on the trail, that is going to need a rebuild soon. When that time comes, add a good cooler and a gauge, and do the vent re-route. Change the fluid every 15-20k miles or immediately if it ever goes over 220* or if you dunk it and get water in it. Do that and it'll last a long time.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 09:46 PM   #21
tjkj2002
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You all have never actually seen a good trans machine have you?

The machine we use is made by Wynn's,hooks into one of the cooler lines.The machine measures the fluid flow and when you hit the button sends the old fluid coming from the trans to a container,while the machine is pumping new fluid at the same flow(psi and GPM) back into the trans.No over pressure,no mess,and no harm.When the new fluid is all pumped in the machine automatically loops the 2 half's of the cooler lines back together while you shut off the engine.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 09:55 PM   #22
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjkj2002 View Post
You all have never actually seen a good trans machine have you?

The machine we use is made by Wynn's,hooks into one of the cooler lines.The machine measures the fluid flow and when you hit the button sends the old fluid coming from the trans to a container,while the machine is pumping new fluid at the same flow(psi and GPM) back into the trans.No over pressure,no mess,and no harm.When the new fluid is all pumped in the machine automatically loops the 2 half's of the cooler lines back together while you shut off the engine.
Does it not just filter and recycle the existing fluid?...
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Unread 07-15-2010, 10:02 PM   #23
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Does it not just filter and recycle the existing fluid?...
No
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Unread 07-15-2010, 10:05 PM   #24
sduncan
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Yes I've seen them...I much prefer doing it myself. I don't really trust anyone at a "Quickie Lube" type joint or anywhere else really, working on my stuff. This way I know its done right, my way and to my satisfaction. I'm also guaranteed that the correct fluid was used. Its also a helluva lot cheaper...
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Unread 07-15-2010, 10:19 PM   #25
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sduncan View Post
Yes I've seen them...I much prefer doing it myself. I don't really trust anyone at a "Quickie Lube" type joint or anywhere else really, working on my stuff. This way I know its done right, my way and to my satisfaction. I'm also guaranteed that the correct fluid was used. Its also a helluva lot cheaper...
That's great that you have the ability and knowledge to do your own work,wish more could then I would not have to deal with a overwhelming amount of stupid people at work.I used to laugh when people added ATF or engine oil to the brake master cylinder,now I cringe since they yell and scream when it's going to cost $2000+ to fix it.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 10:21 PM   #26
baldeagle1
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Bought my Jeep with 135,000 on it. Fluids had not been changed ever. All but the oil that is. The oil had only been done every 10,000 to 30,000 per walmarts records. Changed everything, but the tranny was red to burnt looking with no burnt smell. Have changed them all according to FSM ever since. O , I did have to rebuild engine 2 yrs ago. Good luck
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Unread 07-15-2010, 10:31 PM   #27
sduncan
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^^ YIKES!! every 10-30k miles on oil huh? I bet that took an hour or two to drain out.......
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Unread 07-15-2010, 10:47 PM   #28
viperbluelx
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Speaking of oil, I know a guy that runs Mobil 1 and changes the oil and filter every 50K miles. He sold the truck at 200K and it was still going strong.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 11:28 PM   #29
97yellow
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whats the process for checking the trans fluid? do you keep it running to check or turn it off? the manual is a little fuzz about what you do . it doesn t say to turn off or leave running.
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Unread 07-16-2010, 12:09 AM   #30
tjkj2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperbluelx View Post
Speaking of oil, I know a guy that runs Mobil 1 and changes the oil and filter every 50K miles. He sold the truck at 200K and it was still going strong.
gotta call BS on that one,not going to happen and still run that long.
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32rh , atf , automatic , change , fluid , maintenance , transmission

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