Axle Repair Dana 35 Detroit Locker Help!! Pics inside - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 03:37 PM
viperbluelx
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Originally Posted by smooth9883 View Post
Okay I think we are on the right track. Is there anything we need to be aware of when we remove these bolts? Do they hold any bearings in place? I think we are on the right steps.
If you only remove the two caps bolts and cap on the right side then nothing is going to come out, don't worry. You have to remove the cap so there is enough room to get the allen bolt out.


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post #17 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 03:40 PM
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post #18 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 03:53 PM
robsjeepxj
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Originally Posted by surfnaked2010 View Post
DO NOT REMOVE THOSE 2 BIG BOLTS!!!!!!! dont touch them those hold the carrier/locker in.
WHAT????? That's exactly what we're trying to do please if you don't know what your talking about....... You'll need to remove the cross pin bolt then the cross pin then remove the c-clips and finally both bearing caps to remove the locker so you can make sure you get all the broken pieces out. Make sure you mark the caps so they go back on EXACTLY how you took them off. You should be able to get all these instructions directly from Detroit's website as downloadable pdf file. Good luck.
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post #19 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
smooth9883
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Originally Posted by robsjeepxj View Post
WHAT????? That's exactly what we're trying to do please if you don't know what your talking about....... You'll need to remove the cross pin bolt then the cross pin then remove the c-clips and finally both bearing caps to remove the locker so you can make sure you get all the broken pieces out. Make sure you mark the caps so they go back on EXACTLY how you took them off. You should be able to get all these instructions directly from Detroit's website as downloadable pdf file. Good luck.
Good luck!!! No Lie!

Is there a trick to removing the cross pin? We have the bolts out but that thing is stuck in there. Can we tap on the pin from the other side to push it out? As you can tell, none of us have done this before.

Great learning experience! By the way, we are drinking a beer for every reply! Keep them coming!!!!
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post #20 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 03:58 PM
robsjeepxj
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Just for future reference running a D35 with a locker is not the best idea they are fragile axle to begin with adding a locker to them makes the situation even worse. You should use care when wheeling it too much torque and the shafts will break very easily. Hopefully after this time though you be better equipped to fix it next time you should find a set of spare shafts to carry with you when you go out wheeling just in case. Good luck.
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post #21 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 04:01 PM
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Here you go this should spell it out for you it's kind of long but all the information is there. http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ.../ct_128482.pdf
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post #22 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by smooth9883 View Post
Good luck!!! No Lie!

Is there a trick to removing the cross pin? We have the bolts out but that thing is stuck in there. Can we tap on the pin from the other side to push it out? As you can tell, none of us have done this before.

Great learning experience! By the way, we are drinking a beer for every reply! Keep them coming!!!!
Once you have the bolt out that holds the crosspin in, you can tap it from the other side to get it started out, then rotate the locker and pull out the cross pin

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post #23 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 04:23 PM
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i actually just installed mine today s35 thanks for askin i just didnt want his locker to come out and him loose a shim by accident or somethin.
You installed your Detroit in a D35 today and you put that allen bolt in with the main cap and bolts in already? I'd love to witness this.

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post #24 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 04:26 PM
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Yeah, if you are running stock axles then I'd yank the detroit and put a factory open carrier in till you upgrade to some good axles.

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post #25 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 04:35 PM
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You installed your Detroit in a D35 today and you put that allen bolt in with the main cap and bolts in already? I'd love to witness this.
Me too.

OP - make sure you don't miss what robsjeepxj said. You need to mark that cap such that when you reinstall it, the end that was on top goes back in on top. Very important.
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post #26 of 30 Old 07-31-2010, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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So we have the pin out. it took a hammer and punch. now we are trying to get the c-clip off. we pushed the wheel in and it spins freely. we just don't know how it comes off. any good techniques? Once we get the good side off we will slide that shaft into the other side. the left is longer than the right so it should work.

thanks for the help!
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post #27 of 30 Old 10-25-2010, 02:48 PM
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We were actually laying under my jeep on a trail in south Georgia pulling up this thread. I snapped the driver's side rear axle and also have Detroit Lockers. This was invaluable to making it a little easier. (Still had to drive 3 hours to get the replacement axle, but that's beside the point.) Thanks again for sharing your pain.

Regards,
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post #28 of 30 Old 01-31-2014, 09:31 AM
eduardostewart
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thanks for the thread. i plan on opening mine up when i get home tonight. So there's that one allen bolt that holds that rectangle piece on i get. and i suppose loctite it back down till she nice and snug.

now when you lift that rectangle piece out what does it look like? is there a recess in it that it "caps" the cross pin? or does it just sit there with a bolt in it?

as for the cross pin - there is another allen head holding that in as well? and which way do you hit the cross pin out? do you hit it so it falls IN the diff? Or do you tap it a little so it go OUT of the diff, and then rotate the diff so you can pull it out?
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post #29 of 30 Old 02-01-2014, 05:21 AM
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The rectangular piece is the "head" of the cross pin, the round section you see 180 degrees opposite is the "tail" of the pin, it's all in one piece. It has to come outwards. Here's a link to the install manual for the Detroit, see page 20 for the specifics on the C-clip version, including torque values for the ONE bolt holding in the cross pin.

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ.../ct_128312.pdf

It's pretty tight quarters inside the little window to manipulate the C-clips off the ends of the axle shafts. I ended up using combinations of picks, small screw drivers, a small magnet on a probe and slightly rotating the assembly to get them off. Also helps to give the outside ends of the axle shaft a "bump" with a hammer to make sure they are all the way in the window before you try to remove or replace the C-clip.

When I replaced the axles on my Super 35, I first thought the axle wasn't the right one as I put it in and the notch for the C-clip was not showing. I tapped the axle end with a 2 lb mini-sledge and that did the trick to get it to fully seat into the axle seal and protrude far enough into the window to get the C-clip on. It's really not that hard to do, but could be a little frustrating the first time.
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post #30 of 30 Old 02-01-2014, 05:34 AM
eduardostewart
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thank you thank you! exactly what i was looking for. all google could find yesterday was different pdfs. even went to quadratech for the instructions and they had the wrong pdf listed as well.
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