[UltimateCC]

those are some real nice gains

[Srgslaughterav]

I am still working on mine. I used a rightangle grinder with cutoff wheel to take care of my rocksliders. If the fenders wouldn't be so expensive I could have bought your rock sliders to bolt on. I could could not see spending the money for something that I allready have and can modify. I am sure you guys at MetalCloak can understand that. I am very happy with the kit. Seems to be going well. The only problem I have had so far was I broke the vacum line off the little box that hides under the battery tray. I don't think it will too hard to fix. Another thing is I dont know where my battery hold down braket goes. I have not looked at it in a few days or remeber seing it in the directions as to how this gets bolted in. But I am sure I just missed it in the directions. If someone could take a pic from looking down at the front of the battery that would help me out. But really know need to i guess. I should be able to figure it out.

[RubiconRazorbac]

Originally Posted by Srgslaughterav

I am still working on mine. I used a rightangle grinder with cutoff wheel to take care of my rocksliders. If the fenders wouldn't be so expensive I could have bought your rock sliders to bolt on. I could could not see spending the money for something that I allready have and can modify. I am sure you guys at MetalCloak can understand that. I am very happy with the kit. Seems to be going well. The only problem I have had so far was I broke the vacum line off the little box that hides under the battery tray. I don't think it will too hard to fix. Another thing is I dont know where my battery hold down braket goes. I have not looked at it in a few days or remeber seing it in the directions as to how this gets bolted in. But I am sure I just missed it in the directions. If someone could take a pic from looking down at the front of the battery that would help me out. But really know need to i guess. I should be able to figure it out.

Do you need to know how the battery tray fits on the Metalcloak bracket, or how the battery secures to the tray?

[matsonian]

Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac

Do you need to know how the battery tray fits on the Metalcloak bracket, or how the battery secures to the tray?

Here is the link for the instructions. Let me know if its not clear, so I can fix that section...

TJ/LJ Instructions

[RubiconRazorbac]

Originally Posted by matsonian

Here is the link for the instructions. Let me know if its not clear, so I can fix that section...

TJ/LJ Instructions

That's what I used and got it back together. If I knew exactly what he was having problems with I'd go take a pic right now for him

[Srgslaughterav]

Well I have not gotten there in the instructions yet. That is why I didn't know what to do with it. I just now saw this in the instructions given in preveous post. So all is well. I just figured that It should have gone in when I thought it should. I was wondering about the battery hold down braket. Just to clear things up a little.

[RubiconRazorbac]

Originally Posted by Srgslaughterav

Well I have not gotten there in the instructions yet. That is why I didn't know what to do with it. I just now saw this in the instructions given in preveous post. So all is well. I just figured that It should have gone in when I thought it should. I was wondering about the battery hold down braket. Just to clear things up a little.

I DID have to trim the battery tray a bit to get the bolts in to hold it to the bracket. No big deal, just opened the oblong holes about another 1/4" lengthwise with a dremel.

The battery sits a little higher so when you put the hold down bracket on it's a TIGHT fit. But, you just feed the J-arms down through the front & back wide holes, then shift it a little 'til the short end comes back up through one of the small round holes on either side. So you're "hooking" the tray. Then tighten as needed.

[Humboldt]

Just a couple comments:

Sometimes, I just don't like to disco my front sway bar. My sway bar end-links use to like getting into the inner fender during moderate wheeling even more than the stock. Here's how I made it stop on mine.

There are two bolts that hold the inner fender to the grill on each side. If you loosen those a tad after everything else is installed, you can hit the forward edge of the inner fender with a rubber mallet. This will flush it to the grill and get you an extra 3/4" - 1" clearance for the end link to move up.

hit at the red x's till it's flush then tighten the bolts back down.


If you user the stock sway bar, then you need to make sure it stays centered by getting two collars from McMaster Carr. Here's a write up:
Jeep Swaybar Shifting Over Fix

Link to the collars $6.82 each:
McMaster-Carr

Installed:


The next tip is if you have a black jeep. The back of the grill is unfinished and ugly with over spray from the factory.
This is the perfect match for your Jeep, and hard enough to not chip. Hit up the area you want to paint, with a scratch pad, wipe it with some cleaner, tape it off, shoot some primer and then 2-3 light coats.

Gloss Black #7579


It's a bit dirty and I should have got the bolts while I was at it, but you get the point


The same paint matches the powder coat that came on the 1st Gen fenders perfectly Ill add. Easy touch ups! Dunno if they changed it.

For comparison: (Picked this one because its black and I like New Castle )

[vector6]

Originally Posted by Metalcloak

As promised, here is the next stage in the process:

Preparing Your Order...

When your order comes in, we don't simply take it off the shelf and pack it up, if the product is not ordered with powdercoating, we DA the metal, creating a consistent finish, ready to be prepped for painting.



But, in the case of the order for FireKite, we are applying our Cardinal Textured Semi-Gloss Black Powder Coat before shipping.

The first step is to media blast every product using a natural mined media to ensure a quality finish and a stronger bond with the powder.


Fender Just Coming out of the Media Blaster... and a close-up of the blasted welds.


The powder coating is applied at 2.0 - 2.5 mil thickness, creating an incredibly strong finish. No cracking or flaking!


The powdercoated fenders then go into the oven for baking.


The finished powdercoated fender


A closer look



To Be Continued... Up Next: Shipping

do you not pre-heat before applying the powder?

[Jeepineer]

Originally Posted by Humboldt

Just a couple comments:

Sometimes, I just don't like to disco my front sway bar. My sway bar end-links use to like getting into the inner fender during moderate wheeling even more than the stock. Here's how I made it stop on mine.

There are two bolts that hold the inner fender to the grill on each side. If you loosen those a tad after everything else is installed, you can hit the forward edge of the inner fender with a rubber mallet. This will flush it to the grill and get you an extra 3/4" - 1" clearance for the end link to move up.

hit at the red x's till it's flush then tighten the bolts back down.


If you user the stock sway bar, then you need to make sure it stays centered by getting two collars from McMaster Carr. Here's a write up:
Jeep Swaybar Shifting Over Fix

Link to the collars $6.82 each:
McMaster-Carr

Installed:


The next tip is if you have a black jeep. The back of the grill is unfinished and ugly with over spray from the factory.
This is the perfect match for your Jeep, and hard enough to not chip. Hit up the area you want to paint, with a scratch pad, wipe it with some cleaner, tape it off, shoot some primer and then 2-3 light coats.

Gloss Black #7579


It's a bit dirty and I should have got the bolts while I was at it, but you get the point


The same paint matches the powder coat that came on the 1st Gen fenders perfectly Ill add. Easy touch ups! Dunno if they changed it.

For comparison: (Picked this one because its black and I like New Castle )

Humbolt... great explanation regarding the slotted holes on the inner fender well at the point of grill mount. The holes were slotted at this point for that very reason...to provide sway bar clearance to those that need it. I don't think our instructions cover this point which i will correct on Monday. I would add that it is not necessary to use a hammer just loosen grill bolts, push the inner fender well toward the engine at the spots marked with "X" (above) with your hand then retighten the grill bolts. This is not necessary on most after market sway bars but it can't hurt to do it anyway.

[Jeepineer]

Originally Posted by vector6

do you not pre-heat before applying the powder?

Vector6...thank you for the clarification, we follow the manufacturer's specification Cardinal C241-BK01 TDS, the post you are quoting is just a quick overview of the process. We kind of thought if we showed every single step of every process we would lose our readers...lol.

[Humboldt]

Originally Posted by Jeepineer

Humbolt... great explanation regarding the slotted holes on the inner fender well at the point of grill mount. The holes were slotted at this point for that very reason...to provide sway bar clearance to those that need it. I don't think our instructions cover this point which i will correct on Monday. I would add that it is not necessary to use a hammer just loosen grill bolts, push the inner fender well toward the engine at the spots marked with "X" (above) with your hand then retighten the grill bolts. This is not necessary on most after market sway bars but it can't hurt to do it anyway.

I first tried loosening up the bolts completely and pushing the inner fender in. It would spring back out. In the end, I just loosened them enough to let the fender move, but not spring back, then tapped it with a rubber mallet. A BFH fixes everything

[RubiconRazorbac]

Originally Posted by Jeepineer

I don't think our instructions cover this point which i will correct on Monday.

It's in the instructions on page 10

[chainbrain2002]

ok i got a question for metalcloak: are you planning a highline arched tube fender kit? this may have been asked b4. i dont know tho. thanks

[matsonian]

Originally Posted by chainbrain2002

ok i got a question for metalcloak: are you planning a highline arched tube fender kit? this may have been asked b4. i dont know tho. thanks

No problem, good question.

The Arched Tube fender is already considered a Hi-Line in that it gives Hi-Line clearance without having to replace or cut the hood. At this point we don't see any need to create a version that requires users to do any body modification. Though we never know what the future holds!

You can see the actual clearance gained in this thread...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/metalcloak-clearance-diagrams-metalcloak-vs-others-842196/