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Old 05-30-2009, 03:02 PM   #1
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ARB leaking...from breather tube?

Like the title states. When I hit the switch to activate the locker air starts hissing out of the diff breather tube.

Does this mean it's leaking in the diff? What could it be?

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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:19 PM   #2
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I think it means the o-ring in the locker is bad. It's pumping air into your axle. Does the compressor run often or cycle frequently? Mine squirts oil out of the solenoid sometimes after it's been used and I've been told the o-ring is leaking also.
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:22 PM   #3
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No the compressor doesn't cycle hardly at all until I activate the locker. Then it doesn't stop running...
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:28 PM   #4
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Bad seal in the ARB locker...
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:30 PM   #5
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Cause it's constantly pumping the air out the o-ring into the case. What sucks is that I'm pretty sure the locker has to be removed to replace itBig bucks in labor for a cheap part.
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Old 05-30-2009, 04:49 PM   #6
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There are a few places that could be leaking:

1. The two seal housing o-rings that the seal housing assembly rides on.
To replace them, one must remove the carrier.

2. A crack or abrasion of the seal housing copper tube. To replace the seal housing copper tube (attached to seal housing), you must remove the carrier. As long as you're in there, you might as well replace the two seal housing o-rings.

3. The o-ring that is at the housing bulkhead where the seal housing copper tube connects to the incoming air line at the bulkhead fitting. This is an easy repair but you must open the diff to give support to the seal housing tube as you install the new bulkhead o-ring and tighten the center compression nut.

The number 3 scenario is what I'm doing this weekend as the original installer pinched both front and rear o-rings in the bulkhead fittings and I'm starting to get leaks and continuous compressor running and no locker actuation. When you install the new bulkhead o-rings, the center compression nut DOES NOT need to be tight, just snug. When you over tighten the center compression nut you pinch the o-rings.
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Old 05-30-2009, 05:17 PM   #7
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Stu has an O-Ring replacement writeup on his website, http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/arb/arb-9.htm
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Old 05-30-2009, 06:03 PM   #8
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Well I just had this installed about a month ago or so. Should I call the guy who installed it and have him redo it? How would you go about it?
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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Old 05-30-2009, 06:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep02Apex View Post
Well I just had this installed about a month ago or so. Should I call the guy who installed it and have him redo it?
That's what I would do...
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Old 05-30-2009, 09:38 PM   #10
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I'll make the call on Monday. Thanks fellas
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:09 AM   #11
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Update to post #6...

In my case, the leak was indeed the bulkhead fittings. The installer had pinched the o-rings, both front and rear, by overtightening. Also, the copper tube had "slipped" down in the rear due to the o-ring not gripping it correctly. This "fix" cost $18 for gear lube, $1 for o-rings, and a couple of hours work.

Hope yours is this simple!
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:34 AM   #12
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You could also do a search on ARB D44 drainback...
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Old 05-31-2009, 10:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
You could also do a search on ARB D44 drainback...
I understand the drainback issue but how is it related to an air leak and compressor cycling?
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Old 05-31-2009, 02:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robncar View Post
I understand the drainback issue but how is it related to an air leak and compressor cycling?
Oops, wrong thread...
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My experience is that poly loves to groan
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Old 06-01-2009, 12:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robncar View Post
Update to post #6...

In my case, the leak was indeed the bulkhead fittings. The installer had pinched the o-rings, both front and rear, by overtightening. Also, the copper tube had "slipped" down in the rear due to the o-ring not gripping it correctly. This "fix" cost $18 for gear lube, $1 for o-rings, and a couple of hours work.

Hope yours is this simple!

Well I hope it's that simple...but I did call the original installer and will be dropping the jeep off at his shop tomorrow morning. Hopefully it'll be that easy.


Thanks guys for all your help
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SOLDSilver 02 TJ Apex Edition. "Pandora"
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Quote:
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Finesse in crawling looks way cooler than momentum.
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