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Unread 05-30-2015, 12:11 PM   #1
064banger
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Almost fixing death wobble

If I have death wobble and my mechanic recommends replacing all my TRE's because they are shot (which I believe).

If I only replace my track bar, can I still expect a bit of steering wheel shimmy at about 50mph? Of course the death wobble is almost completely gone.

Thanks

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Unread 05-30-2015, 01:09 PM   #2
jeepn4life92
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What leads you to believe you have a problem with your trac bar and not the tre's that the mechanic suggested replacing?
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Unread 05-30-2015, 01:13 PM   #3
RDaniel2405
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Personally, I would just do both/all of them and be done with it
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Unread 05-30-2015, 01:22 PM   #4
064banger
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Yes I do plan to do them all, but I wanted to start with what I have read to be the main culprit. Plus I didn't have a whole day to work on it.

The track bar was included in the mechanics quote. I've read a lot about death wobble and more often than not the suggestion is to tighten or replace the track bar. I confirmed once my old track bar was off that the ball joint end was toast. However I'm not sure if the other TRE's being bad would cause a shimmy and/or DW.
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Unread 05-30-2015, 01:39 PM   #5
RDaniel2405
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You can install all that in less than 1 hour and with only a few hand tools. But you should get an alignment after doing tie-rods, or DIY.
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Unread 05-30-2015, 04:31 PM   #6
joe_jeep
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you can get all the tie rods, and drag link for a v8 zj on ebay for about $80.00.
the tie rod is bigger and stronger than the tj stuff. the zj drag link is cheaper than a tj also.
changing the track bar is a good idea too. do it all, then get an alignment.
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Unread 05-30-2015, 04:52 PM   #7
jeepn4life92
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Doing the work really doesn't take too much time. I just replaced a tie rod end on one of my jeeps this past weekend when it stripped the threads and fell out on road. Probably took longer to get to the parts store and back than it did to actually replace the tre itself. But like suggested above, I'd get a whole v8 zj tie rod. Tj and zj drag link are the same tho so just buy what's cheaper/better bang for the given brand
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Unread 06-13-2015, 07:25 PM   #8
064banger
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Wanted to update everyone. I got everything installed and the DW is gone, however I did want to let you know about my experience with the ZJ 4.0 Drag link (Its the DS1311 from Moog).

First of all its not exactly the same as the TJ one. It is much cheaper (which is why I bought it), but if you look at the pic below you will see that it has a longer piece of metal before the threads compared to the stock TJ one. If you look at the next picture you will see my problem. After adjusting the drag link and tie rod end to match my the old one, the tie road end and the drag link are now touching inside the adjustment sleeve. Luckily for me I was still able to get my steering wheel straight... barely. But any further adjustment (in one direction at least) is now not happening. I've not read about problems from anyone else with this upgrade, but just wanted to let you know what happened to me. Last pic is the finished product.
img_20150613_133857.jpg   img_20150613_133925.jpg   img_20150613_201957.jpg  
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Unread 06-13-2015, 08:46 PM   #9
RenoF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
you can get all the tie rods, and drag link for a v8 zj on ebay for about $80.00.
the tie rod is bigger and stronger than the tj stuff. the zj drag link is cheaper than a tj also.
changing the track bar is a good idea too. do it all, then get an alignment.
What is there to align? I am told it is only toe, that is easy enough to do at home.
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Unread 06-14-2015, 12:48 AM   #10
joe_jeep
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i did mine with a tape measure. it is fine.
i have all currie suspension, so everything is adjustable to me.
but it drives so good, i gotta be damn close to right on.

a tape is accurate within an 1/8th to a 1/16th, for most that is close enough.
if it dont drive real good, go get it checked out.
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Unread 06-14-2015, 01:45 AM   #11
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_jeep View Post
i did mine with a tape measure. it is fine.
i have all currie suspension, so everything is adjustable to me.
but it drives so good, i gotta be damn close to right on.

a tape is accurate within an 1/8th to a 1/16th, for most that is close enough.
if it dont drive real good, go get it checked out.
I've gotten mine down to 3/32 and it works very well, keep in mind that I don't have the OEM inverted "Y" steering...
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Unread 06-14-2015, 11:33 AM   #12
Partsmke
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If the thread bottoming becomes a problem in the future, you can cut some of the excess threads off one or both the tre and the draglink, be sure and clean up the threads.
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