[skrap1r0n]

Stock '04 TJ - No lift kit, 134k miles. Started experiencing intermittent wobble Noticed cupping on tires so I replaced all 4 Shocks with Skyjacker Hydro. I also replaced the Steering stabilizer.

Now getting HARD DW at 55 every time. Had tires rotated and balanced, this didn't fix the issue.

I took it in for an alignment at a Jeep specialty shot here, thinking they had experience fixing this only to be told that they cannot set the caster to spec unless I pay for an Offset kit (160 bucks + Labor) on top of the alignment, OR get adjustable control arms.

Now here's the thing. My Jeep is a daily driver. I haven't had it on anything remotely technical. maybe down a fire road or two and never hit anything or dropped it in a hole or anything. I don't see how something could be bent.

Here's the question I have. Per other threads, I am seeing that the only adjustment that can be done for a jeep is toe in. If that is the case, then how come my caster is out of spec?

any ideas here?

[flying2275]

Did the shop say that the caster was out of spec?
What are your tire pressures at?

At 134K miles I would be looking more at worn front end components such as ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link ends and track bar.

[skrap1r0n]

Shop is saying caster is 2degrees out and that it can't be adjusted.

Tire Pressure is an Even 40psi on all 4. I thought that was high, but tires say max 44psi so I'll go with it and considering the tire shop balanced and rotated them this morning, I figure its ok.

Just crawled under while it was running and girlfriend was steering back and forth and I am not seeing any odd movement or wear on pitman arm, drag link, tie rod or track bar.

[flying2275]

First I would drop the tire pressure down to 30-35psi. Check your door frame for the recommend pressure or do the chalk test to get the "perfect" pressure. Just because the max pressure is 44psi doesn't mean to set it there. At 40psi the Jeep must be riding very stiff.

Are you getting any popping sounds when you turn or any grittiness or slop in your steering?

[MJBinNM]

40 PSI is too high, shouldn't be higher than 32ish, or a little lower. What is on the tire is a max...not a recommendation. The original tires on my Rubi said 60, but the door sticker says 33.

Your cupped tires are putting a strain on your components. Check the track bar bushing and control arm bushings. They are probably getting tired.

Your caster could be out of spec because of shot control arm bushings allowing your axle to relax a little bit. Do the steering test and watch the CAs at both ends...there should be very little to no visible movement.

You can go by NAPA or another auto parts store and get some caster cam bolts for about 40 bucks or less.

[cheapjeep06]

Stock 30X9.50's call for 29lbs per door sticker on my GE. x2 on the cam bolts, just install them then have alignment done.

[MJBinNM]

Also meant to say that alignment will not stop the DW. This more than likely because of worn TB bushing/joint or worn CA bushings.

[biffgnar]

Didn't you have a thread earlier in the week where we told you the scalloping and DW were from worn front end components and not shocks? The same answer still holds true. You need to do the dry steering test and watch trackbar bushings, control arm bushings, TREs, etc. Do test without engine running. And don't just look, put your hand on the joints and feel.

Did the shop tell you exactly what the caster is? A real number, not some BS about being out. It does sound like they are making things up a bit. Range for what caster works is pretty broad.

And the advice about lowering tire pressure is absolutely correct.

[skrap1r0n]

Yep, lowering pressure now in tires now, it seemed high to me too, but I was on the road just prior to checking them and it was over 100 out. I got the shocks and stabilizer, because that's what the shop told me was causing the scalloping so that's where I started.

I have the printout from the Jeep shop and they are saying the range should be 6-8 degrees. I'm not sure how to read the printout, as it has Actual, Before and Specified. Left Before is 9.12 degrees and Right Before is 8.58

I'll go ahead and replace the the bushings on the TB and CA and install some cam bolts while I am at it.

Is there any preferred brand of Bushings to look for? Cam bolts only for the Lower CA, right?

Edit: I crawled under it to look at the lower CA where the cam bolts go. I have bolts there, but they look completely round and un-camlike.

[MJBinNM]

They quit putting the cam bolts in, but it should have the adjuster brackets on the axle end mounts. It should look like this (ignore the bolt...that's not a cam bolt):



If you are intending to go back with stock CA bushings, you're almost better off replacing the whole arm. Removing and replacing the bushing in the stock arms can be difficult. The whole arm doesn't cost that much more than the bushings. The track bar might be better to replace than repair also. The bushing at the axle end is replaceable but the joint at the frame is not repairable. Check RockAuto you can get all 4 front arms for less than $160 and a track bar for about $70. You can also probably source these at local parts places like NAPA, but they'll probably be more expensive. Just don't skimp and buy the cheapest parts.

[skrap1r0n]

I crawled under to look and I have the brackets there, no cam. I'd like to replace as much as I can, but there is the cost consideration I have to think about.

Edit: if I am going to replace The CA's, would it be better to get adjustable ones and not worry about the cam bolts?

[MJBinNM]

Originally Posted by skrap1r0n

if I am going to replace The CA's, would it be better to get adjustable ones and not worry about the cam bolts?

Yes, but they will be more expensive. I would recommend the Currie arms from Savvy, but just the front lowers would run you just under $300. The new MetalCloak arms have been getting a lot of talk on the forum, but they are even more expensive and a new design which doesn't have the history that the Curries with Johnny Joints have.

There are other cheaper adjustable arms out there, but I can't personally recommend any of them.

[brplatz]

Just put on my new savvy front adjs, and loving them. Used to get deathwobble from 45-50 and now nothing. Regained my wheelbase, caster and flex! Great day haha

[biffgnar]

Originally Posted by skrap1r0n

Yep, lowering pressure now in tires now, it seemed high to me too, but I was on the road just prior to checking them and it was over 100 out. I got the shocks and stabilizer, because that's what the shop told me was causing the scalloping so that's where I started.

I have the printout from the Jeep shop and they are saying the range should be 6-8 degrees. I'm not sure how to read the printout, as it has Actual, Before and Specified. Left Before is 9.12 degrees and Right Before is 8.58

I'll go ahead and replace the the bushings on the TB and CA and install some cam bolts while I am at it.

Is there any preferred brand of Bushings to look for? Cam bolts only for the Lower CA, right?

Edit: I crawled under it to look at the lower CA where the cam bolts go. I have bolts there, but they look completely round and un-camlike.

It's your money, but just throwing parts at it could take awhile to come up with an answer. Properly diagnose the problem.

[skrap1r0n]

Originally Posted by biffgnar

It's your money, but just throwing parts at it could take awhile to come up with an answer. Properly diagnose the problem.

Yeah, I'm seeing that some bushings aren't easily replaceable. I'll try to figure out exactly is worn. After sleeping on it, and reading through this thread, the Jeep place wasn't exactly wrong, they just could have explained it better.

I understand how to check the fittings for movement on the front end, but how does one go about checking the CA bushings?