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Advice Needed - LJ Upgrades

2K views 42 replies 12 participants last post by  toximus 
#1 ·
Need some help folks. I'm probably just way overthinking this, but that's what I do... :smile2:

I've got two Jeeps. '93 XJ and an '04 TJU / "LJ". The XJ is on 35s, Dana44 front and rear, 7.5" long arm lift, highly modified. The LJ is closer to stock. Dana 30 Front, Dana 44 rear, 4" lift on 33s. The XJ has been modified to a 5x5.5" wheel bolt pattern. (CJ bolt pattern). LJ is the stock 5x4.5" bolt pattern. I'm trying to get them both in shape for Moab (and beyond) next year. I'll be driving the XJ, wife will be driving the LJ. We've got two younger boys that will be going with us.

The Dana 30 on the front of the LJ is always on my mind as a weak link. I don't wheel the thing hard (mostly just deep backwoods exploring right now), but I feel the 33x12.5x15 tires are already kind of the limit on that axle. But the 33s are starting the wear out, and I have a full set of almost brand new BFG KO2 ATs 35x12.5x16 tires I'd love to put on the LJ. Except they're the 5x5.5" bolt pattern. (terrible problem to have right? lol). I would love to have both jeeps on the same tire size / bolt pattern just to make things easy on the trail - should the need arise. We're also planning on building an adventure trailer to pull behind the rigs on family adventure, and having that match tire size / bolt pattern would be ideal down the road.

So the options I've come up with for the Wrangler

1) Wheel adapters to convert the 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 bolt pattern and run the 35s, hope the Dana 30 doesn't blow up
2) Buy new wheels for the BFGs in the 5x4.5" bolt pattern for the stock Wrangler
3) Assuming the stars align in a few months, upgrade the LJ to a Dana 44 (ProRock maybe?), with the 5x5.5" bolt pattern, then buy new shafts for the rear Dana 44. (basically the "go big or go home" option)
4) I could put some money into the Dana 30 (axle sleeves, gussets on the knuckels, etc) to add some strength, but my gut tells me that's just delaying the inevitable.
5) Something I haven't thought of yet?

I need to re gear the LJ as it is right now (stock 3.73 gears aren't great with the 33s in the hills), so I'm hesitant to pay to have the Dana 30 re geared as I may end up swapping it for a Dana 44 later anyway. (I can do a lot of work myself, but re gearing axles is something I haven't tackled yet)
 
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#2 ·
The TJ Dana 30 doesn't need sleeves or gussets to run 35s.
The problem with the 30 and the 35s is the shafts / u-joints.
Why not re-gear for the 35s, get some chromloy shaft and put the tires on some wheels with the right bolt pattern?
 
#9 ·
I ran them on my XJ on a trip to Oregon. About 1300 miles round trip. Little stiff, but not horrible. Significantly better ride than the Goodyear Wranglers M/T tires I normally run on the XJ.

If I had a set of almost brand new 35s I'd run them even if they were E load rated. Drop the PIS and ride them until they're worn out...
I bought them to have a second set of tires for the XJ. One normal wheeling, one for mud/snow. Then I bought the Wrangler.... lol

Thanks for the links.

So.. shafts + brakes upgrades / knuckles + wheels = $2700 Then about $600+ to get the D30 re geared, it'll be around $3300 (without adding a locker, if I wanted to do that). I had thought I priced out a D44 for around $3800 for a complete assembled axle. (could be wrong...). Not arguing one way or the other, just doing the math.
 
#5 ·
Brakes:
http://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/VANCO-Super-16-Big-Brake-Kit-w-Master-Cylinder-BBK-OS16M.htm

Shafts:
http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details-axles.aspx?sku=CVJ30

Wheels:
https://www.4wd.com/p/pro-comp-seri...t-black-machined-7069-6865/_/R-BKBQ-7069-6865

Or, you can go with cheaper u-joint style chromo shafts.

And you could even try Centric rotors and BMB pads.

And there are plenty of (more expensive) wheel options.

All depends how much you want to spend.

The point is that the D30 will be fine with a few mods...
 
#6 ·
If I had a set of almost brand new 35s I'd run them even if they were E load rated. Drop the PIS and ride them until they're worn out...
 
#8 ·
How bad is the "Actual" difference in ride quality? I have the MTR-K 245's and it still rides exactly like a Jeep. SO MUCH better than stock since my Zone 4.25" lift and new shocks. I'm on the fence of buying 15" wheels and c rated tires or keeping my 16" Rubi wheels (I like them) and paying a little more NOT to buy crap black steel wheels (that's all I can afford).
 
#7 ·
I'm poor and enjoy all of my Jeeps. Quality wheel adapters/spacers made in the USA are only $70 for all 4. PM me if you need a full set.
 
#10 ·
IF it were me...toss that LP Dana 30 and grab a HP30 from an XJ (dime a dozen at wreckers). Regear that and run 35s with 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern. The reverse rotation gears are stronger. 97+ XJs used the bigger Ujoint (760x I believe). It is usually the caps that end up spinning , stretching the ears and failing before you break shafts. So you can always tack them in OR grind to fit a full circle clip.

I ran a HP30 , regeared to 4.88 with NO Truss , NO Chromos , Aussie locked on 36s for 6 years. Broke a total of 3 shafts / ujoints with that setup. Once I upgraded to bigger/stronger ujoints I only broke 1 after a cable wrapped around my passenger tire stopping it dead in its tracks.
 
#15 ·
Those bolt in axle assemblies probably aren't going to have improved brakes.
And you can definitely save by getting u-joint style chromo shaft instead of RCV shafts.
 
#20 ·
I personally do not know. I was just demonstrating to the OP that there are a wide range of options cost wise.
The ones I posted still come with a 10 year warranty.
 
#21 ·
Interesting discussion, I have an LJ, TJ, WJ and have often been thinking about getting them on the same page as far as wheels and rim size. My LJ D30 just had the pinion bearings go bad from daily driving, I could shake the front driveshaft and the pinion would sound like marbles in a tin can. I know they can work well but I just have no faith in the D30 as a whole.

One option that might save some cash and beef you up is to to take the diff of a JK 44, weld in your D30 tubes ...... or take buy a JK 44 axle and shorten it so the length fits for the LJ, I've seen it both ways where folks will put the JK ends back on with the improved brakes (have to run 17" rims though I believe) or shorten the JK tube and put the D30/D44 C's on. C's from a TJ/LJ 30 and 40 are the same.
 
#36 ·
As far as just using the JK44 diff center, how often does an axle have a problem with the center of the diff itself? Would D30 tubes even mate to it? With D30 tubes do you then have to stick with D30 shafts? And then what gear set do you have in the diff? JK44 to match the housing or D30 to match the shafts?

*Great questions; since my D30 needs repair, I talked to the folks at Starr Motors out here in Virginia; they're an official Jeep/ Chrysler/ Dodge dealership with a Jeep offroad shop incorporated. They do some great custom work and help me out a lot. I'm on a budget and we discussed what I posted; I'll ask them for some of the specifics.

Or if I was just going to use a JK 44 whole why would I shorten it up?? 65" is a great width for a TJ on 35 or bigger tires. And putting TJ outers on a JK housing? Again, what is the weak point in axles, the housing or the outers? And then what axle shaft setup do you have? JK44 inner shaft linked to TJ outer shaft? Does that option exist?

*If you're just repairing or replacing the front axle, you may not want 65" up front and 60" in the rear. Some people might not want that length at all in both. I would but was trying to give options. Preference and options for the outers was discussed as I just bought brand new rims and tires; 15" rims on 5x 4.5" and that wouldn't fit on JK outers....the rims won't clear the calipers and then you have to get adapters for the bolt pattern, now you're looking at 68" with spacers, as the OP wanted a 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern I believe.

JK axles absolutely get used on TJs, but I think every instance I've see has been basically the whole JK axle. Slice and dice and create some mix seems very odd to me.

*This was offered as an alternative to me. I've never done the work myself but I know these guys have on several rigs, and it's worked out quite well.

Oh, and if you want better brakes on the TJ axles the Vanco kits posted above (rather than trying to put on JK brakes) are great options and much simpler than messing with getting the JK axle under the jeep.[/quote]

*I don't think I suggested putting JK brakes on a TJ axle. Agreed the Vanco kits are great; I have them on my TJ.
 
#41 ·
I ran HP30 for 6 years in a temperate rainforest. Wet, muddy rocks is the norm where we are from. Never had issues wheeling in that type of terrain on the HP30. After 6 years of abuse I discovered a chipped tooth, which was warrantied, after an old railway cable wrapped around my tire and stopped it dead in its track.
 
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