[TJ_Jerry]

Would there be any advantage to installing adjustable controls arms (rear) ?

I don't have vibes now after a RC 3.25 lift, and I installed the TC drop.

I guess I am asking if being able to line up the pinion angle without installing a SYE and DC drive shaft would be of any advantage ?

If so, would I need to do just the uppers, lowers or both ?

[biffgnar]

Adjusting pinion angle is done with uppers. I thought serious adjustment of pinion angle was only necessary though if you did SYE/CV.

[TJ_Jerry]

Originally Posted by biffgnar

Adjusting pinion angle is done with uppers. I thought serious adjustment of pinion angle was only necessary though if you did SYE/CV.

I thought so too but it just seemed that keeping the pinion angle lined up would keep at least the rear u joints under less stress ? I could be full of s**t too !

Holy Crap ! The Packers whoopin the Cardinals !!

[MO2500]

Originally Posted by TJ_Jerry

I thought so too but it just seemed that keeping the pinion angle lined up would keep at least the rear u joints under less stress ? I could be full of s**t too !

With a standard driveshaft like yours you don't want the pinion angle "lined up" with the drive shaft.
This is a pic of how a standard driveshaft should be. you want the pinion angle to match the angle of the output shaft on the transfer case, basically parallel


Adjustable uppers allow you to properly adjust the pinion angle. This is especially important when you have an SYE and CV driveshaft because the pinion angle must match the angle of the driveshaft to eliminate vibes.
Transfer case drops lessen the angles on your standard driveshaft and help make the output shaft angle and pinion angle close to parallel to reduce vibes. If you don't have any driveshaft vibrations now then you should be fine with your stock uppers.
If you decide to step up to and SYE and double carden CV shaft, you can ditch the transfer case drop.And then you'll need adjustable uppers to correctly set pinion angle.

Hope this helped

[Gary2]

I installed all eight before the SYE installation because the ones I bought were designed to twist and not limit flexing then I got carried away and went long arms not long after .

[Imped]

You're over what I consider the max height for a slip yoke setup (2.5"). Even if you do set the t-case output and rear pinion angle parallel to each other, the angles on the u joints will likely be too much. You 'might' be able to get away with a MML. The way I see it, you've spent money to lift the belly of the jeep and you just dropped the skid plate 1". What's the point of that? Get the arms, SYE, and new drive shaft as money allows and do it right.

[TJ_Jerry]

Originally Posted by imped4now

You're over what I consider the max height for a slip yoke setup (2.5"). Even if you do set the t-case output and rear pinion angle parallel to each other, the angles on the u joints will likely be too much. You 'might' be able to get away with a MML. The way I see it, you've spent money to lift the belly of the jeep and you just dropped the skid plate 1". What's the point of that? Get the arms, SYE, and new drive shaft as money allows and do it right.

That's what my plan is. I was thinking I would get parts as the budget allows and start adding. I was thinking of doing the control arms first. I guess this would be OK and just keep the pinion angle as it is now until I can get the SYE and DC/DS. Plus I wasn't sure which control arms to get since uppers and lowers are both available.

Thanks Guys

[Gary2]

with almost 4" of lift I ran a 1" mml and a 3/4" TC drop for almost a year of not to abusive driving as I knew what I had and was waiting for good deals on what I now have . a little patients can save some money don't rush as a Jeep is never done any way