[mmm0042]

Does anyone know of a good write up on this? I am swapping in a D44 this week and figured I would do control arms as well. I bought all 8 Currie adjustable control arms.

The arms come sized for a 4" lift (I have 2", see profile for full details).

I'd love to think that pulling the old ones out, and sizing them half way between current Currie size and stock would work, but these things are never that easy.

Thanks!
Matt

[06WranglerX]

Get your measuring tape out.

1. Set the lowers to be stock length, take measurements from the middle TC Skid bolt to the front of the axle tube I used in between the lower control arm mount, this should be done with full weight of the jeep on the springs/axle.
2. Adjust the lowers so the rear axle is square to the frame they most likely will not be equal length, next adjust the pinion at degree=degree or iirc degree -1 degree, the first being the TC outpout the second the pinion angle.
3. Put one upper control arm with this adjustment, left off all tension on suspension if you used a ratchet strap to pull the pinion down. Put some pressure back on suspension just enough to wiggle the bolt a bit and lengthen the other arm to match the distance.
4. Connect all other items rear TB, SB with load on the wheels, take for a test drive. If you feel wibes measure TC angle vs pinion and adj as needed.

Worked well for me Blaine explained it over the phone a few years ago. Currie lowers will go Stock length or smaller with little problem, you need this to be able to set the tire centered at full bump not ride height. By adjusting them out you compromise that square contact area and cause the tire to hit fenders, or put the pumpkin into the rear fuel skid. Take your time and measure twice, adjust once, it works alot better then crawling back under to make changes.

[alex211]

I left the front's at curries specs, works fine for my 4" springs.

The rears are as short as they will go on the lowers and long as possible on the uppers, my pinion angle is retarded though with a tummy tuck and 4" lift on a rubicon. Tires are in the middle of the wheel well at full bump which is what you want.

[Necromancer_tat]

Originally Posted by Gary2

Stock|15.75 |15 3/4|15.00 |15
2” |15.92 |16 |14.88 |15
3” |16.09 |16 |14.92 |15
4” |16.33 |16 3/8 |15.03 |15
4.5”|16.47 |16 1/2 |15.11 |15
5” |16.62 |16 5/8 |15.21 |15 1/4
6” |16.97 |17 |15.44 |15 1/2
7” |17.36 |17 3/8 |15.74 |15 3/4
8” |17.81 |17 3/4 |16.09 |16
9” |18.30 |18 1/4 |16.50 |16 1/2
10” |18.82 |18 3/4 |16.96 |17

Bam! And then this happened! Where did you find this chart Gary?

[Imped]

Don't go crazy over that chart. Quit worrying about length so much and worry more about positioning the axle correctly.

[biffgnar]

Originally Posted by Imped

Don't go crazy over that chart. Quit worrying about length so much and worry more about positioning the axle correctly.

x1000! Hate that chart. Too many variables in a TJ setup for there to be one right answer. Undertand where your axles should be, how they should be oriented and what each arm does. You have your jeep in front of you. Only you can determine the right length. I don't think any of my arms the lengths in that table but I'm happy with how they are set.

[Necromancer_tat]

Originally Posted by Imped

Don't go crazy over that chart. Quit worrying about length so much and worry more about positioning the axle correctly.

Originally Posted by biffgnar

x1000! Hate that chart. Too many variables in a TJ setup for there to be one right answer. Undertand where your axles should be, how they should be oriented and what each arm does. You have your jeep in front of you. Only you can determine the right length. I don't think any of my arms the lengths in that table but I'm happy with how they are set.

So, you guys would advise what lenghts as a round about figure? Or you would advise locating the axle, and figuring out the axle travel arc first, and then adjusting the control arms accordingly...

So instead of posting vauge comments in Matts thread, how about being helpful and explaining, or pointing to a good explaination of how to accomplish his goals?

[Necromancer_tat]

Originally Posted by Gary2

the chart is just a rough place to start nothing more nothing less...I took it for granted we all knew that but I guess it needed to be pointed out . Should of known better

Thanks for being helpful! Your post was a lot closer to what the OP asked for than the people knocking your post was.

[biffgnar]

Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat

So, you guys would advise what lenghts as a round about figure? Or you would advise locating the axle, and figuring out the axle travel arc first, and then adjusting the control arms accordingly...

So instead of posting vauge comments in Matts thread, how about being helpful and explaining, or pointing to a good explaination of how to accomplish his goals?

Get axles square and centered. In rear not much optionality. Centered in wheel well at full bump and pinion properly oriented at ride height. In front roughly the same although perhaps a little more flexibility based on the caster/pinion angle trade off. If the numbers in the table do that for you, then great. For me, not the case.

[Unlimited04]

Originally Posted by biffgnar

Get axles square and centered. In rear not much optionality. Centered in wheel well at full bump and pinion properly oriented at ride height. In front roughly the same although perhaps a little more flexibility based on the caster/pinion angle trade off. If the numbers in the table do that for you, then great. For me, not the case.

x2.

I tried to use that chart as a guide at first, then realized most aftermarket front uppers don't adjust shorter than stock, so you can't actually do most of the measurements. Then I tried lowers at 16" as a starting point for my 2.5" lift. Not enough caster. Ended up pushing them out to 16-1/8" or so, after some trial & error and a few trips to the alignment shop, to get my desired caster.

biffgnar has the correct explanation. If you don't understand it, then you need to do more homework about how your suspension works....and stop expecting someone to spoon feed you a number. I see you're in Lakewood...if you'd like some help with this (and some education) shoot me a PM....

[Gary2]

Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat

Thanks for being helpful! Your post was a lot closer to what the OP asked for than the people knocking your post was.

Thank you .

[alex211]

Here's what you want, my tire is perfectly centered in the wheel well at full bump.

[Kodiak17]

Though I'd post as it might help others: right now my stock front uppers are still in place, front axle on jackstands. I have one frameside bolt about half way out but theres too much tension on the CA for to come all the way out. I tried attaching a ratchet strap to the axle UCA mount and a hole in the side of the frame. I can't get get enough pressure to relieve the tension. Hints?

[J03_TJ]

Originally Posted by Kodiak17

Though I'd post as it might help others: right now my stock front uppers are still in place, front axle on jackstands. I have one frameside bolt about half way out but theres too much tension on the CA for to come all the way out. I tried attaching a ratchet strap to the axle UCA mount and a hole in the side of the frame. I can't get get enough pressure to relieve the tension. Hints?

You have to rotate your axle. Use jack under pinion to get it to go that way. Or, for the other way I stick a strong big (super big) screw driver/ pry bar between the driver side spring perch and axle tube and stick my floor jack under the handle. I think some others jack on one of the brackets on the other side of the front to do the same rotation directlon. My screwdriver has a nice bow in it now, course I've had the weight of the vehicle on the springs when I did it.

[J03_TJ]

Just re-red your post that your axle is on jackstands. I hate messing with my arms with the axle like this especially if the tires are off. The whole thing about being under the vehicle and twisting the axle on stands is scary to me. My above trick was always with my tires on and usually on the ground too.