AC doesnt work - compressor kicks on then off - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
mystangt
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AC doesnt work - compressor kicks on then off

My girlfriend just picked up a 98 TJ with AC, however the AC does NOT work

When you turn the AC is, the compressor kicks on and the clutch spins for a brief second, then stops. Then after 3-4 seconds, it kicks on again for a second and stops right away. It keeps doing this but the air is still HOT in the cabin.

What could this be? A bad compressor clutch or could it possibly be that the system is out of freon, causing the compressor to shut right off?

THANKS!

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post #2 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 08:32 AM
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Sounds like low freon to me
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 03:47 PM
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Sounds like low freon to me

Agreed, low freon.
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 03:49 PM
tjsean0308
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x3 have the refrigerant level checked also could have a leak.


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post #5 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
mystangt
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I am going to buy the freon in auto zone...where do i connect it to re-fill it?

and which do the TJs use? 134 right?
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 04:18 PM
tjsean0308
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Yep 134a stay away from the leakfinder added snake oil types just get the good old 134a add it to the low side ( there are two different fittings for the high and the low, the can you buy from autozone will only have the low fitting plug and play) when you have the truck running and the a/c "on" this will probably make the system function but it will be hard to tell if you have overfilled or under filled the system and the success may be temporary. I recommend having it put onto a machine.


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post #7 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 04:20 PM
drstephennix
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Originally Posted by mystangt View Post
I am going to buy the freon in auto zone...where do i connect it to re-fill it?

and which do the TJs use? 134 right?
Yes, 134 and it connects on the low pressure line. there is a, usually black, screw top on the line that you take off and attach your can of 134.
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 04:22 PM
cajunfireman
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x2 on the machine. If it does have a leak and is low, then it'll need to have a vacuum pulled on it once it's fixed.

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post #9 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 04:24 PM
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Yep 134a stay away from the leakfinder added snake oil types just get the good old 134a add it to the low side ( there are two different fittings for the high and the low, the can you buy from autozone will only have the low fitting plug and play) when you have the truck running and the a/c "on" this will probably make the system function but it will be hard to tell if you have overfilled or under filled the system and the success may be temporary. I recommend having it put onto a machine.
Some of the cans nowadays have a pressure guage on them. you can stop inserting 134 and read the pressure. They work pretty good
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 04:29 PM
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in my experience most of those types of cans either have leak detector or stop leak additive or the gauge is about as accurate as a one handed blind man in a shooting contest. And I would definitely stay away from the stop leak it can plug up components real quick making for a expensive repair. also with only one gauge you can't see what the pressure difference from the high to low side is. I really recommend a qualified tech for a/c repair. Its worth it in the long run.


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Last edited by tjsean0308; 07-20-2010 at 04:31 PM. Reason: added stuff
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-20-2010, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsean0308 View Post
in my experience most of those types of cans either have leak detector or stop leak additive or the gauge is about as accurate as a one handed blind man in a shooting contest. And i would definitely stay away from the stop leak it can plug up components real quick making for a expensive repair. Also with only one gauge you can't see what the pressure difference from the high to low side is. I really recommend a qualified tech for a/c repair. Its worth it in the long run.

x2
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-22-2010, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice gents.

I have never dealt with freon before, and considering that i am a little skeptical as to why its empty, i will go ahead and have a shop do it. It'll be an extra few $$$ but it'll be safer and less of a headache.

Thanks everyone!
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post #13 of 15 Old 07-23-2010, 01:46 PM
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our pleasure, best of luck let us know how we did on the Diag.


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post #14 of 15 Old 07-24-2010, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by drstephennix View Post
Some of the cans nowadays have a pressure guage on them. you can stop inserting 134 and read the pressure. They work pretty good
Having a low side guage is completly worthless w/o a high side guage. You can have a green or blue pressure on the low side with only a low side guage and dangerously high high side pressure and not know it.

To do things correctly you should recover what refrigerant is in the system, Pressure test it with Nitrogen to find leaks, fix leaks, evacuate and charge with a scale. The proper charge is very important with a R134a system.

This is why shops charge so much to do AC recharges. A shop must buy a $4000 machine that charges the system correctly.

Some do it yourselfers do get lucky and get the charge close enough to work ok. (+ - 2oz or so). Most guys dont get that lucky and end up overcharging the system. It will not be colder if you add too much refrigerant.

I've had cars come in that are specked for say 1.5 lbs and I've pulled 4lbs out of them!
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-24-2010, 06:14 PM
Stu Olson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drstephennix View Post
Some of the cans nowadays have a pressure guage on them. you can stop inserting 134 and read the pressure. They work pretty good
IMO, reading only the lower side without reading the high pressure and referencing both readings to an ambient temperature chart for that system is not worth the time/effort.....assuming one doesn't actually cause damage to the system while filling in this haphazard manner. And as was stated, this assumes the $1 gauge is even accurate.

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