About to change the oil on the 6 speed - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
rubidriver
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About to change the oil on the 6 speed

Well the NSG 370 needs an oil change. Ive got the oil and the tools, but I was just wondering what the best thing to put on the plugs when Im going back in with them.

Ive seen people do teflon tape and pipe dope, but Im wondering what is the correct thing to put on the fill and drain plugs.

BTW Im using Amsoil going back in.


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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 04:55 PM
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You don't need anything on the threads, IMHO. BUT BUT BUT, MAKE SURE YOUR TORQUE WRENCH WORKS PROPERLY. 22 Ft/Lbs is what is required. IF you over tighten it, you can look forward to a minimum $ 1000 bill.

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post #3 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 04:56 PM
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I didn't use anything on the threads when I recently did mine. I don't have any leaks currently. Just torque them to 14-21 foot lbs. I also used the Amsoil in mine.
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHeretic View Post
You don't need anything on the threads, IMHO. BUT BUT BUT, MAKE SURE YOUR TORQUE WRENCH WORKS PROPERLY. 22 Ft/Lbs is what is required. IF you over tighten it, you can look forward to a minimum $ 1000 bill.
Im aware of that I have seen the thread where the guy cracked his tcase. I was thinking of skipping the torque wrench and doing it to hand tight, but now that you say something, I might not skip it, Im just afraid the torque wrench wont be perfectly accurate and doing what that one guy did because of it.

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #5 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubidriver View Post
Im aware of that I have seen the thread where the guy cracked his tcase. I was thinking of skipping the torque wrench and doing it to hand tight, but now that you say something, I might not skip it, Im just afraid the torque wrench wont be perfectly accurate and doing what that one guy did because of it.
The GOOF who craked his Transmission case was ME! I use to go by the name "Beemerd".

IMHO, the best torque wrench to use is the ones with the needle that deflects. Do NOT use a torque wrench that works like a socket wrench, UNLESS it is of incredibly good quality, and you have a piece of paper certifying a torque wrench like that, so when it messes up and you over torque your drain bolt, you can sue THEM.

Seriously though, use a torque wrench. My little fiasco ended up costing me $4000, by the time the transmission was out, plus I had them change all the consumables in there, since it was already down.

Do not use tape. I'll tell you why: the tape, although very thin, will change the diameter of the bolt, it will be slight perhaps a couple thousanths of an inch, but that will effect your torque value. Did it come from the factory with tape on there? NOPE.

VA3IPB

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post #6 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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I remember that thread like it was yesterday, how much did you end up getting for the cracked tranny? Do you think I could get away with hand tightening the plug with a 3/8 ratchet and tighten it to the same tightness as I do the motor oil on the engine? The torque wrench I have is a huge Snap On that has been used in the upper 75 lbs its whole life..

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubidriver View Post
I remember that thread like it was yesterday, how much did you end up getting for the cracked tranny? Do you think I could get away with hand tightening the plug with a 3/8 ratchet and tighten it to the same tightness as I do the motor oil on the engine? The torque wrench I have is a huge Snap On that has been used in the upper 75 lbs its whole life..
I didn't have to scrap it. The NSG 370 is modular, only the piece with the drain plug had to be replaced.

The Torque wrench I used was also of a high quality, and it spent most of its life at the 60 ~ 80 Ft/Lb range. It was very accurate, until you got below 60 Ft/Lbs, which I didn't know at the time of my "mishap". Spend $10 and get a needle deflection torque wrench. That would have saved me thousands.

VA3IPB

The only True Professional Mechanic in the Greater Toronto Area for Modified Jeeps, and trucks. If Rock Spyder hasn't seen it before, or done it before, you don't need it.

http://rockspyder4x4.com

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post #8 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't have to scrap it. The NSG 370 is modular, only the piece with the drain plug had to be replaced.

The Torque wrench I used was also of a high quality, and it spent most of its life at the 60 ~ 80 Ft/Lb range. It was very accurate, until you got below 60 Ft/Lbs, which I didn't know at the time of my "mishap". Spend $10 and get a needle deflection torque wrench. That would have saved me thousands.
And where do I find one of those?

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-01-2010, 08:56 PM
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Torque Wrench, 1/2-in. | Canadian Tire

You can get these anywhere. Their cheap, but the advantage is that if the needle is not on zero when you start, then you can easily account for that. With a clicking torque wrench, you have no indication of how many pounds you are at, until it clicks. What if you don't hear, or feel the click? Oops.

VA3IPB

The only True Professional Mechanic in the Greater Toronto Area for Modified Jeeps, and trucks. If Rock Spyder hasn't seen it before, or done it before, you don't need it.

http://rockspyder4x4.com

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post #10 of 10 Old 07-12-2010, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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Got it done, very very impressed with the Amsoil

2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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