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Old 01-05-2008, 10:06 AM   #31
GreenJip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDTJ35
welding cast is not hard, just get the nickel electrode and weld up. cast iron now adays is so advance to where it easier to weld without cracking.

to tell the difference between cast steel and cast iron is if its cast steel there will be metal shaving if you drill a little hole some where if its cast iron drilling a hole it will be dust
Thanks for that info. Someone told me the other day that it was cast steel without looking and you confirmed that for me. I had shavings when I drilled and taped the pumpkin for the T-Fitting, so it is definitly cast steel. That gives me a better feeling about welding the tubes. Thanks again.

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Old 01-05-2008, 11:20 AM   #32
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the 8.8 housing takes a weld just fine.
you can do it with your mig on the tubes.


having "shaved" mine, and welding it with a mig 2+ years and 100 trails ago, i'd say the diff will hold a weld just fine.
the tubes you propose to weld are a hell of a lot less suceptable to damage than the bottom of te diff.

go for it.
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Old 01-05-2008, 12:14 PM   #33
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Ya I can set it up, it would have to be in cook vegas and I would have to get the tools back, It would probably take me a weekend though...

Sweet shaved housing dude!
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Old 01-05-2008, 01:13 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NAILER341
having "shaved" mine, and welding it with a mig 2+ years and 100 trails ago, i'd say the diff will hold a weld just fine.
the tubes you propose to weld are a hell of a lot less suceptable to damage than the bottom of te diff.

go for it.
I am having mixed answers about migging and sticking. I am going to have someone burn a nickle rod in it I think. How much clearance were you able to save by shaving that pumpkin and what gears are you running in it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjstranz
Ya I can set it up, it would have to be in cook vegas and I would have to get the tools back, It would probably take me a weekend though...
Good, we can do it together and maybe I'll learn something. Let me get the HP housing and see if I can find some gears on eBay.
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Old 01-05-2008, 01:33 PM   #35
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I its steel then why cant you just MIG it??? any input would be great.

Also wouldnt nickle rod make a weak weld in cast steel? Just a thought.
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Old 01-05-2008, 07:22 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJip
I am having mixed answers about migging and sticking. I am going to have someone burn a nickle rod in it I think. How much clearance were you able to save by shaving that pumpkin and what gears are you running in it?
i got about 1.25" by shaving it.
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Old 01-08-2008, 05:43 PM   #37
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Great job guys! A friend of mine is planning this very same swap so I'm going to direct him here.

Just one note of warning, now that you have this sturdy axle and bracket assembly - keep an eye on your upper control arm frame brackets. They're only 1/8" and they will break! Feel free to ask me how I know.
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Old 01-08-2008, 05:47 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Jeeptuber
Great job guys! A friend of mine is planning this very same swap so I'm going to direct him here.

Just one note of warning, now that you have this sturdy axle and bracket assembly - keep an eye on your upper control arm frame brackets. They're only 1/8" and they will break! Feel free to ask me how I know.
Please tell, this is an open thread untill I get more dinero to finish this up anyway.

I also need to know %100 without any doubt from more who have migged there housings if its ok to do so. We already know that mine is cast steel.
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Old 01-08-2008, 05:58 PM   #39
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[QUOTE=GreenJip]Please tell, this is an open thread untill I get more dinero to finish this up anyway.

A buddy of mine with an '01 TJ, D44, ripped his driver side bracket right off the frame, and I just happened to be crawling around underneath my '98, D44, yesterday and noticed my passenger side bracket is cracked in two places.

Since you asked.
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Old 01-08-2008, 06:26 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJip
Thanks for that info. Someone told me the other day that it was cast steel without looking and you confirmed that for me. I had shavings when I drilled and taped the pumpkin for the T-Fitting, so it is definitly cast steel. That gives me a better feeling about welding the tubes. Thanks again.
yeah glad i could help a little bit
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:14 PM   #41
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[QUOTE=Jeeptuber]
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJip
Please tell, this is an open thread untill I get more dinero to finish this up anyway.

A buddy of mine with an '01 TJ, D44, ripped his driver side bracket right off the frame, and I just happened to be crawling around underneath my '98, D44, yesterday and noticed my passenger side bracket is cracked in two places.

Since you asked.
Wasn't that a stock bracket that ripped? My brackets are 3/16" thick. They are frome M.O.R.E. I don't know that 1/16" is much of a difference, but I am not worried about these brackets or the welds.
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Old 01-08-2008, 08:24 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by GreenJip

Wasn't that a stock bracket that ripped? My brackets are 3/16" thick. They are frome M.O.R.E. I don't know that 1/16" is much of a difference, but I am not worried about these brackets or the welds.
He's not talking about your axle brackets. He's referring to the frame brackets.
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Old 01-08-2008, 10:28 PM   #43
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He's not talking about your axle brackets. He's referring to the frame brackets.
Oh yeah, duh. My mind is not right tonight.
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Old 01-09-2008, 03:31 PM   #44
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Anyone else that has run steel wire through cast steel?
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Old 01-09-2008, 04:26 PM   #45
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Quote:
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Anyone else that has run steel wire through cast steel?
mine is.
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