[GreenJip]

Well, I finally got some time and an able friend (mjstranz) to help me with my 8.8 swap. I thought I would document the process and share it with all of you. I know that their are already some write ups out their, but I wanted to do my own! We also took a slightly different approach at setting up the brackets.

I will also keep tally of the parts I need to accomplish this swap and provide as much detail as I can.

My Dad and I went to pull apart here in Nashville and found a 1998 Ford Explorer 8.8 with 4.10 gears, disk brakes and LSD. Not a bad find for $70. We loaded it up and it has been sitting in my garage since this Summer. Another JF member (TimBrown) went with me and helped me hunt down the Front CV Shaft from the same vehicle, which I will have cut down for the rear. We also grabbed some used calipers to help lighten the load on the core charges.

[GreenJip]

I will use this post to update parts and prices as I obtain what I need related to this axle.

Axle - $70
Pull Apart

Brackets - $328
M.O.R.E

Turned Rotors - $13
Original Turned @ Car Quest

Calipers
Advanced Auto Parts - $35 Each w/ core
Part # 184604 and 184605

Passenger Rear Brake Hoses (Two) - $14 Each
Oreilly’s
Part # BH380528

Pin Bolts $5.50
Advanced Auto Parts
Part # 5054A

Brake Pads - $32.50
Advanced Auto Parts
Part # MKD667

3/16” x 30” Hard Brake Line (Two) - $3.50 Each
Advanced Auto Parts
Part # BL330

Stainless Braided Hose w/ 3/16” T-Fitting - $30
mjstranz
He couldn’t use it for his build, so I bought it from him.

E-Brake Adapter - $40
www.crawlertech4x4.com
These brackets will be used to convert my TJ e-brake lines to be used on the 8.8

Axle Seals (Two) - $6 Each
Advanced Auto Parts
Part # 8835S

Axle Bearings (Two) - $17 Each
Advanced Auto Parts
Part # 6408

Rear Upper Adjustable Control Arms - $169
Rusty’s Offroad
Part # RC-CA222-UV

Front CV Shaft From Ford Doner - $10
Pull Apart
This will need to be cut down to size at a drive shaft shop.

Labor to Shorten Shaft to 20" - $65.55
Clinards in Nashville, TN on 4th Avenue

U-Joints for CV Shaft (Three)
Napa - $13.50 Each
Part # 369

Ball Centering Kit for CV Shaft
Napa - 37.40
Part # 617

Flange Yoke for CV Shaft
Napa - $28.50
Part #2-2-1379

Two Used Calipers for Core Charges - $20
Pull Apart

RE Rear Adjustable Track Bar - $55 shipped
Bought used from thejafe here on JF
Part # RE1620

Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE)
JB Conversions - $300
Part # SS SYE NP231J

Muffler and Labor to Reroute Exhaust - $85
US Tire and Muffler in Shelbyville, TN

Build Total To Date - $1480.95

[GreenJip]

First thing was to remove the brakes, carrier and cut the stock brackets from the axle. I used cutting and grinding wheels to remove the brackets and a flap disk to prepare the surface for welding. mjstranz and I removed the D35 to prepare for bracket set up. Also, the breather hole was filled in with weld so I could relocate it later.



Look, its already been upgraded. The Turdy Five is gone!

[GreenJip]

Now for the fun part! Instead of measuring the D35 and then transfering the measurements to the 8.8, we centered the axle under the jeep.

First we set the axle at the approximate ride hieght on jack stands. Then we attached the brackets to the control arms (upper and lower) and moved the axle forward until they met. We took many measurements to ensure that the axle was centered under the jeep and the brackets were centered on the axle.

We set the pinion at 10*. This was the stock pinion angle. This won't be a problem because my 4" lift has sagged to 3" and I have a one inch MML. I will also be running a JB Super Short SYE, CV rear shaft adjustable upper control arms and an adjustable rear track bar. So, I will have plenty of room for changing the pinion if I need it.



Once everything was set in place, we double measured and tacked the upper and lower control arm brackets on, pulled the axle out and finished up the welds.

Tacked brackets.


Thats mjstranz on the welder.


Test fitting to make sure the brackets didn't pull to one side or the other during the welding. We also tacked the track bar bracket in place to see if there would be any problems.

[bryans98tj]

Looking good so far. Nice welds and they appear to have good penetration.

My only advice from what I see is cut off the ears around the ABS sensor. If not when you attach your sway bar it will hit them. It's a lot easier to do when it is out from under the Jeep...trust me.

[EG00TJ]

Looks good .. Very clean install so far.. cant wait to see it done

[TexanTJ]

Originally Posted by bryans98tj

Looking good so far. Nice welds and they appear to have good penetration.

My only advice from what I see is cut off the ears around the ABS sensor. If not when you attach your sway bar it will hit them. It's a lot easier to do when it is out from under the Jeep...trust me.

x2. I should have cut those ears off when my 8.8 was out and on the ground, i just got in a hurry bc i was excited

[GreenJip]

Originally Posted by bryans98tj

Originally Posted by bryans98tj
Looking good so far. Nice welds and they appear to have good penetration.

My only advice from what I see is cut off the ears around the ABS sensor. If not when you attach your sway bar it will hit them. It's a lot easier to do when it is out from under the Jeep...trust me.

Originally Posted by TexanTJ

x2. I should have cut those ears off when my 8.8 was out and on the ground, i just got in a hurry bc i was excited

Thanks for the advice, I did cut them off. I have so much crap to post up, I can't keep up! I think mjstranz did a great job welding up this axle. I ran a few beads, but he did most all the welding for the brackets.

[GreenJip]

More bracket stuff.....

During the first test fit, we tacked the coil buckets in place. We just set them up there and made sure they were centered and at the same angle. We pulled the axle out and welded the coil buckets and track bar up.

Tacked Brackets


Track bar welded up. We ran beads everywhere we could.


During the second test fit, we put the weight of the vehicle on the axle. We installed the control arms and coil springs. We also wanted to see if there would be any issues with the track bar. From this pic, you can tell that I will need an adjustable rear track bar.



During this time we were able to tack up the sway bar. We did this by installing the sway bar to the jeep and then the brackets to the sway bar. Then we were able to position the brackets where they needed to be. I did have problems with those horns, so I noted where to cut and grind.

I don't have a pick of the sway bar mocked up, but this is the tacked bracket.


We also tacked up the shock brackets. we measured between the bump stop and coil retainer to make sure that we had the shocks set with enough up travel.

This is the only problem I have with the shock set up, I am going to have to reroute the exhaust away from the shock can. Since the M.O.R.E bracket is longer than stock and the rotation of the bracket on the axle is different, the shock and exhaust touch.



So this is it for the welding right now. I have to get the axle tubes welded to the housing, because I don't trust the factory plug welds to keep the axle tube from spinning. I will have this done at a later date. Also, I will have to weld up something to hold the brake lines.

[GreenJip]

Since my friend lives about 1.5 hours away, we put the D35 back under the Jeep. I loaded my stuff up and drove home with it so I can finish up the rest.

The next day was a fun filled day of grinding and some more cutting. I didn't like the way the lower arm control mount stuck out so close to the upper control arm, so I marked off where to cut it and made more room for the axle to flex in case I had binding issues.

I marked off 3/4" to cut back.


Heres the rough cut.


Then I smoothed out the edges.


I don't like rough or sharp edges, so I went ahead and smoothed every corner on every bracket. I also knocked off all the little weld splatter as I went.

As mentioned before, I did have problems with my sway bar hitting the ears and the bottom part of the pumpkin. I went ahead and cut the sensor down too.

Here is where I cut the pumpkin.




I will post brake work later.

[blacktjsport]

What did u use to cut the ears on the pumpkin? I need to do this to get my rear sway bar to fit back on.

-Matt

[GreenJip]

Originally Posted by blacktjsport

What did u use to cut the ears on the pumpkin? I need to do this to get my rear sway bar to fit back on.

-Matt

First I used a 4 1/5" cutting wheel to cut where I marked then I used a 4 1/5" grinding wheel to even it out and then a flap disk to round the corners.

[jeepster93]

Weld your tubes before installing it. This will take care of one of the weak points on an 8.8
Use nickel rod and a "hot" welder(stick welder, not a wire welder)

[GreenJip]

Originally Posted by jeepster93

Weld your tubes before installing it. This will take care of one of the weak points on an 8.8
Use nickel rod and a "hot" welder(stick welder, not a wire welder)

I do plan on welding the tubes at some point before I install it. I don't have much experience welding. So, I don't feel comfortable welding the tubes myself since the housing is cast.

Since this has been brought up again. Is the housing cast iron or cast steel? How can I tell the difference?

[mjstranz]

Hurry up and get it down Im ready to go wheelin again.